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U. S. HYDROGRAPHIC OFFICE, 

No. 61. 


THE 


RIO DE LA PLATA. 


COMPILED BY 


LIEUTENANT-COMMANDER HENRY H. GORRINGE, 

UNITED STATES NAYY. 


WASHINGTON: 

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 
1875 . 




5 



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V 



s 

t 






t 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


The principal authorities consulted in the compilation of this work are: 
Nouveau Manuel de la Navigation dans le Rio de la Plata, by Ernest 
Mouchez, Capitaiue de Eregate, Ereucli navy; Manuel de la Navigaciori 
del Rio de la Plata, bj- Senores Lobo and Riudavets, Spanish navy ; 
South American Pilot, Part 1, 1874, by Staff Commander James Penn, 
Iiluglish navy; La Plata, the Argentine Confederation, and Paraguay, 
by Thomas J. Page, United States Navyj xVppleton’s American Ccyclo- 
pmdiaj Imperial Gazetteer; Report of Mr. Thomas B. Wood, consul of 
the United States at Rosario, dated September 30,1873; Reports of Mr. 
Joel, British consul at Rosario, dated August 31, 1871, and November 
10, 1872; Notions on the Chorography of Brazil, by Joaquin Manoel de 
Macedo, translated by H. LeSage; remark books of United States 
vessels on the South Atlantic station, Notices to Mariners, Hydrogra¬ 
phic Notices, Geographical Magazine, &c., &c., &c. 

R. H. W. 

U. S. HYDRoaRAPiiic Office, 

Washington, B. (7., Novemher 18, 1874. 





NOTICE. 


All bearings and courses are irue^ except where otherwise stated. 

The direction of the wind is the point from which it blows 5 that of 
the current, the point to which it sets. 

The distances are expressed in nautical miles 5 the cable’s length 
assumed to be equal to 100 fathoms. 

The longitudes are reduced to the meridian of Greenwich. 



LIST OF PLATES. 


View of the land northward of Castillo cape. 
View of the land northward of Santa Maria cape. 
View of the land southward of Santa Maria cape. 

View of Lohos island. ^ 

View of Negra point. t. 

View of Flores island. [ . 

View of Montevideo cerro. j 

Indio light-vessel. 1 
Chico light-vessel, 

Indio point. ( . 

Magdalena church. J 

Leading marks for Catalina channel. 

Chart of the Rio de la Plata follows page.. 


Page. 

10 


14 


62 


70 

IGl 












rABLE OF CONTENTS. 


Page. 


Advertisement . m 

Notice . iv 

List of Plates . v 

General Eemarks : discovery; limits; affluents; bed of tlie estuary; pilots; 

coast of the estuary; anchorages; climate. 1-5 


North Coast of the Estuary : Cape Castillo and Coronillo point; island; 
anchorage ; cape Polonio ; anchorage ; Torres island ; Bisson reef; anchor¬ 
age ; remarks; Polonio reef; tides and variation ; Punta Rubia ; cape 
Santa Maria ; islets ; dangers ; light-house ; Arrecife anchorage ; Paloma 
harbor; tides ; soundings ; remarks ; point Piedras; reef; San Jos6 Igna¬ 
cio lagoon ; Maldonado point; East point; light-house ; Lobos island ; 
channel between Lobos and the main land; mountains; soundings; 
mountains ; Pan Azucar ; Sierra de las Animas ; Maldonado bay ; Gorriti 
island; East bank ; New Rock; Monarch rock ; leading marks; anchor¬ 
ages ; Maldonado town ; supplies; pilots ; Ballena point; tides and cur¬ 
rents; Potrero bay ; Negrapoint; English x)ort; Afilar point; Solis reef; 

Afilar reef; Piedras Negras point; Santa Rosa beach ; Pando river ; Car- 
retas point; Brava point; Basurasbaj-; Flores island; light-house; vari¬ 
ation ; dangers; Sara bank ; Bump shoal; Carretas reef; Forest King 
reef; Luz islet; remarks; Buen Yiaje shoal; Caleta point; soundings.. 5-29 
Montevideo Bay and City, Republic of Uruguay : San Jos6 point; break¬ 
water; lights; variation; Lobos point; Cerro light-house; Montevideo 
bay; Ratones island; rocks; Sarina reef; Triton bank ; Familia rocks; 
anchorages ; lauding j)lace ; lighters ; tugs ; tides and currents ; sup¬ 
plies ; dry-dock ; defenses ; army ; navy. 29-56 

Uruguay: area; population; immigration; mortality; government; depart¬ 
ments ; towns ; rivers ; lakes ; surface; natural productions; climate ; 
agriculture; stock; animals; birds; commerce; exports; imports; rail¬ 
ways ; telegraphs ; artificial harbors ; public debt; history ; Montevideo 
city ; shipping; steamers ; duties on imports ; duties on exports; port 
charges; hospital dues; xRilotage; moneys; weights and measures; tele¬ 
graphs . 36-45 

North Coast, (Continued:) Espiuillo point; shoal; Panela rock; light-ship; 
directions; shoals; Santa Lucia river; channels; cliffs; San Gregorio 
point; banks; Jesus Maria, or Sandy point; bank ; Pavon point; San Mi¬ 
guel river; Ensenada de Pavon; Rosario point; Pavon and Pereyra riv¬ 
ers; Cufre river; Rincon del Cufre; Rossario river; Sauce point; Artil- 
leria point; Pipas rocks; Angostura point; Colonia del Sacramento; 
marine railway; wharf; supplies; light-house; Colonia roads; islands 
and reefs; Fishers’bank ; Farallon islet and reef; Beaumanoir rock; San 
Gabriel island; Laja bank; Lopez islets; Lopez road; Relampego rock; 
llornos islands; Etna rock; directions; coast; landmarks; San Juan 
river; Cerros San Juan; Martin Garcia island; beacons and light; Mar¬ 
tin Garcia channel; buoj'S and beacons; canal lutierno. 45-58 










viii 


TABLE OF CONTENTS. 


Page. 

Southern Coast of the Estuary : Cape San Antonio; Rasa point; Tuyu 
bank; soiindint^s; tides and currents; San Borombon; landmarks; Jun- 
cal; Rodeo; Mount Rosas; Salado river; tides; San Borombon river; 
mount Juan Jeronimd; Piedras point; Piedras bank; Cerro San Salva¬ 
dor Grand6; Indio point; remarks; tides; light-ship; Magdalena; Em- 
budo point; soundings; Atalaya point; Atalaya river and bank; Chico 
light-ship; remarks; Barragan bay; Santiago point; Lara point; wreck; 
Santiago bank; landmarks; directions; tides; variation; village ; Quilmes 


and Colare points ; Lara bank ; light-ship ; light-house. 56-68 

Buenos Ayres : anchorages ; Outer road ; bar; Inner road ; the Pozos; direc¬ 
tions ; character of the bottom; Boca bank; Riachuelo river; landing- 
place; communication; piers; winds; tides. 68-72 


Argentine Republic: boundary; area; divisions and population; immigra¬ 
tion ; description ; climate ; natural productions ; products ; exports ; 
wool and sheep; hides and cattle; distribution; imports; increase of 
imports; trade; revenue; expenditure; customs tariff; importation; 
exportation ; agriculture; education ; army and navy; telegraphs ; ship¬ 
ping ; steamers; railways ; projected railways; public debt; moneys ; 

weights and measures ; treaty. 72-79 

Historical Sketch: discovery; settlement; war for independence; formation 
of the government; war with Brazil; Rosas; peace with Brazil; confed¬ 
eration of the provinces; insurrection; Rosas dictator; war with Uru¬ 
guay, Paraguay, and Brazil; intervention of the French; peace with 
France and Uruguay; blockade of Buenos Ayres; Rosas overthrown ; 
Urquiza dictator; Buenos Ayres secedes; new constitution; civil dissen¬ 
sion ; Paraguayan war; civil wars; plague; controversy with Brazil; 

revolution. 79-88 

City of Buenos Ayres : dimensions; description; sanitary defects; squares, 
buildings, <tc.; places of worship, &c.; police; municipal government; 
communication; need of facilities for landing cargoes; shipping; re¬ 
marks ; lines of steamers; remarks; freights; supplies; American 


houses. 88-92 

Coast Northward of Buenos Ayres: Olivos bay; Las Conchas river; delta 

of the Parana. 92-93 

Port and City of Rosario : remarks; Rosario; growth; report of Consul 
Wood; river navigation; railway system; telegraphs; trade, (foreign;) 
home trade; United States flag; remarks; supplies. 93-97 


Banks and Soundings : caution ; bed of the estuary; channels ; soundings; 
parallel of 34^ S.; parallel of 34° 25' S.; parallel of 34° 40' S.; parallel of 
35° S.; parallel of 35° 11' S.; parallel of 35° 20' S.; La Plata bank; Eng¬ 
lish bank; light-ship ; bell-buoy; wrecks; Archimedes bank ; Meduse 
bank; Narcisse bank ; Astrolabe bank ; French bank; shoal; Ortiz bank ; 

Cuirassier bank ; Chico banks; tides; Coast bank ; danger.98-107 

Tides and Currents: causes; rate; ground-log; currents caused by winds; 
remarks ; tides at Buenos Ayres; tides in San Borombon bay ; tides of the 

north coast; current from the rivers.107-111 

Winds and Climate: winds; summer; Virazon; winter; pamperos; indica¬ 
tions; SE. gales; barometer; thermometer; fog and haze; rain; dews; 
thunder and lightning ; m irage.111-118 












TABLE OF CONTENTS. 


IX 


Pago. 

Navig.^tion OF TILE EsTUARY : landfall; from Lobos to Flores; from Montevi¬ 
deo to linenos Ayres; North channel; beating; Middle channel; South 
channel; beating through the South channel; to Colonia; to the rivers; 
pilots; landmarks; Martin Garcia channel; Intierno channel; Carretas 

rocks; tides; mouths of the Uruguay and Parana.118-130 

Affluents OF THE Plata: remarks; anchoring; grounding; fuel and sup¬ 


plies .130-133 

Parana River: Rio Parauahyba; Rio Grande; Parana river; Setc Quedas; 
length ; volume ; head of navigation; below the Paraguay ; atlluents ; 

Salado river ; Tercero river; Gaulaguay river; delta of the Parana; an¬ 
nual rise; depth of river; bars; current; towns on the river banks; 

remarks.134-140 

Paraguay Ria^er: source; headwaters of the Paraguay and Amazon; tributa¬ 
ries ; head of navigation; Sipotuba river; lakes Obiraba and Gahiba; 
Cuyaba river; Cuyaba town; San Lourengo; Dourados; Dourados to 
Corumba; Lake Mandior^i; remarks; Corumba; remarks; Tacoary river ; 
Otuquis river; fish and game ; Latiriquiqui river; Blanco and Apa rivers ; 

Jejui river; Confuso river; Pilcomaio river; Vermejo river; remarks; 

navigation of the river; Asuncion; annual rise.140-150 

Uruguay River: source; Salto; tributaries; navigation; entrance; aspect; 

banks; Fray Bentos; conception; remarks; rise of the river; caution.. 150-152 

River DistancEvS . 152 

Table of Positions. 154 

Index . 155 

List of Lights . . 161 


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THE RIO DE LA PLATA. 


GEjSTERAL remarks. 

The Eio de la Plata was discovered October 8, 1508, by 
the Spanish navigators Juan Diaz de Solis and Vincente 
Yanes Pin 5 on, while seeking for a passage to the Pacific 
Ocean. The Indians whom they encountered called the 
river Parana Guazu. After a short stay, their vessels were 
driven to sea by a gale, and they returned to Spain to report 
the discovery. In 1515, Solis revisited the estuary and 
anchored off.the Sierra de las Animas, near to a small river 
which now bears his name. On landing, he, together with 
six of the crew of the vessel, were murdered by the Indians. 
Solis named the estuary Mar Dulce; after his death it was 
called the Eio de Solis until the exploration of Sebastian 
Cabot, in 1527, when it received the name Eio de la Plata, 
from the great number of silver orjiaments worn by the 
natives of the adjacent country. 

The Eio de la Plata is an estuary formed by the junction 
of the Parana and Uruguay rivers about 170 miles from the 
sea. The entrance is between Punta del Este, near Maldo¬ 
nado, and Punta Easa, the north extremity of cape San 
Antonio; these two points are distant 120 miles, on a 
is E. J E. and SW. J W. bearing. The general direction of 
the estuary is to NW. by W.; the length is 150 miles from 
the line joining the points of entrance to the common 
mouth of the Parana and Uruguay. The width diminishes 
rapidly to 50 miles between points Piedras and Yeguas, 
45 miles within, and to 21 miles between Colonia and Lara 
point. The head of the estuary is a semicircular space, 
about 18 miles in diameter, which is almost entirely occupied 
by an extensive sand bank formed by the deposits of the 
rivers. This bank is subject to rapid and frequent changes, 
which are caused by the opposing wind and current. 

The limit of brackish water is nearly a direct line between 
point Piedras and the mouth of the San Lucia river; this 
1 R p 


Discovery. 


Limits. 



o 


BED OE THE ESTUAEY. 


Affluents. 


Eed of the 
tuary. 


I 


varies, however, with the i)revailiDg wind and condition of 
the rivers. 

The Parana and Uruguay receive in their course a great 
many important streams; those flowing into the former 
descend from the valleys of the Andes and cross the Chaco, 
an extensive, uninhabited, marshy iflain; those flowing into 
the latter generally rise in the table-lands of Matto Grosso, 
within a short distance of the headwaters of some of the 
most important affluents of the Amazon. The Paraguay is 
the principal affluent of the Parana; it is navigable a dis¬ 
tance of about 2,400 miles from the sea. 

The bed of the estuary is strewn with extensive sand¬ 
banks and shoals, which contract the navigable space, es¬ 
pecially between Montevideo and the head. The shoalest 
is the English bank; among the others the most important 
are the Ortiz, Archimedes, French, Meduse, Cuirassier, 
Chico, and Astrolabe. 

The deposits brought down by the Parana and Uruguay, 
on arriving in the estuary, are subjected to the effects of 
violent currents and of the heavy sea produced by winds 
from the offing. Banks are thus formed, and the shape, 
depth, and dimensions of those already existing are materi¬ 
ally changed. This, together with the fact of there having 
been no recent survey of the whole estuary, should put the 
mariner on his guard against a reckless reliance on the 
information contained in any printed instructions, or even 
the most recent charts. 

The space southward of 35o 30' S. is comparatively un¬ 
known, because of late years it has been very little fre¬ 
quented. Besides this, the sea, having a full sweep into this 
part of the estuary, produces rapid and frequent changes, 
which cannot be correctly delineated on a chart or described 
in sailing directions. A comparison of the old and recent 
charts is sufficient evidence of the extensive changes Avhich 
are constantly occurring wherever the current runs strong¬ 
est and the sea has a good sweep. 

West of the meridian of Montevideo the bed of the river, 
between the banks, is of mud, sometimes hardened into clay; 
east of this meridian the bottom in the channels is also of 
mud, but there are exceptions to this rule. The banks are 
composed chiefly of sand; in some localities the bottom is 
rocky, in others the sand is mixed with gravel and shells. 


PILOTS—COAST OP THE ESTUARY. 


o 


and in the vicinity of point Piedras there is a bank com¬ 
posed chiefly of tosca^ a species of rotten-stone. In thick 
weather or at night the pilots rely upon the character of the 
bottom more than the depth of water, for estimating the 
l)Osition. They assert that as long as the lead shows a bot¬ 
tom of pure mud, there is no danger, but as the mud becomes 
mixed with sand, it indicates an approach to dangerous 
depths, for the banks are composed chiefly of pure sand. 

The mud is not of the same nature everywhere; between 
Lobos and Montevideo, near the nortli coast, it is greasy or 
slippery, and has an entirely different appearancp to that 
found near the south coast. 

The south coast is fronted by a bank of loam, with occa¬ 
sional patches of tosca and of ooze, which extends out be¬ 
tween 5 and 12 miles from the shore. The Cuirassier bank 
is chiefly composed of tocsa ; within a few years, the depth 
on this bank has increased from 13 to 16 feet. West of 
Montevideo, the depth of water in the channels is 4 to 6 
feet more than that on the general surface of the banks; 
but there are several deep pools, of 5 to 7 fathoms depth, 
which are the result of strong eddies. 

Bound to Maldonado, there is no sand-bank to be avoided; Pilots, 
from thence to Montevideo the English bank is the chief 
danger. When bound to Buenos Ayres, all the important 
dangers must be guarded against, and it is advisable never 
to attempt the navigation of the estuary above Montevideo 
without a pilot. A notice was issued by the government of 
Uruguay, in 1870, earnestly advising all vessels to take 
pilots, on account of the numerous wrecks that occur be¬ 
tween the entrance and Montevideo; these losses are due, 
almost entirely, to irregular currents, which the native 
pilots are more capable of estimating and guarding against 
than any stranger, however familiar with the navigation of 
the estuary he may deem himself to be. The pilot-boats are 
by law required to cruise between cape Castillo and Maldo¬ 
nado bay. 

The two coasts of the estuary are of an entirely different coast of the es- 
nature. The south coast is low and of uniform height; 
is the termination of the pampas, which constitute the 
greater part of the Argentine Confederation; it is visible 
7 to 8 miles, and at this distance nothing but the tops of the 
stunted trees are seen; these appear as if growing out of 


4 


ANCHOEAGES—CLIMATE. 


Anchorages. 


Climate, 


tlie water. There are no rocks or islands on this coast j the 
surface of the bottom fronting it is composed entirely of 
mud; this is sometimes very soft, but generally stiif, and 
occasionally as hard as stone; to this latter substance the 
name has been giv^eu. The north coast is of me¬ 

dium elevation and undulating; spurs of hills branch out 
from the mountains of the interior, occasional!}^ reaching 
down to the sea; and the mountains themselves are visible 
a considerable distance in the offing. The shore is fronted 
by rocky ledges, which occasionally rise to the surface, 
forming islets and islands, which are composed of granite 
and limestone. The early navigators never approached this 
coast, and it remained unknown until the commeucemeut 
of the present century, when the English blockade, estab¬ 
lished south of English bank, compelled merchant-ships to 
seek another channel. Subsequently it was examined, and 
found to afford the best route for entering or leaving the 
river, and it is now almost exclusively used by all classes 
of vessels. 

Wherever the lead indicates a muddy bottom, there is 
good anchorage ; if the wind is fresh, or a gale is approach¬ 
ing, care should be taken to avoid anchoring near the 
weather-side of a bank. From Lobos to Flores the mud is 
not deep, and below it there is a rocky or other hard sub¬ 
stance, which sometimes causes the loss of anchors that 
have been down a long time. Outside of the estuary, ves¬ 
sels of any size may find good shelter, from southwesterly 
gales, behind capes Castillo and Santa Maria; but, since 
these anchorages are oi)en from NE., round by E. to SW., 
vessels should not remain after the gale, from which they 
sought shelter, has abated. 

The climate of the Plata is considered the most agreeable 
and healthiest in South America. In the summer the ther¬ 
mometer rarely rises to 90^ F., and in the winter it seldom 
falls to the freezing point. At Montevideo the range is 
still less, for, although the summer is a little warmer, the 
winter is never as cold as at Buenos Ayres. 

The bad weather and violent winds experienced in the 
Plata have been much exaggerated; it is true that the 
changes of weather are frequent and rapid, but the force 
and duration of the gales are rarely equal to that of the 
gales experienced along our eastern coast during the cor- 


i 




% 































































































































CAPE CASTILLO. 


5 


responding seasons. The first gust of a pampero is often 
violent, but this is almost always of short duration. The 
natives of the country bordering the Plata assert that these 
gales are neither as strong nor as frequent as formerly. As 
there has been no change in the cause there can have been 
none in the effect. The belief is probably due to the im¬ 
provements in ships and means of navigating the estuary, 
affording greater security to life, and enabling the mariner 
to battle more successfully against the elements. 

NOETH COAST OF THE ESTUARY. 

The coast of Brazil terminates in a long sand-beach backed cape casuiio 
with downs ; at the end of this beach there is a rocky point point. ^ 

which trends a few cables to the northward; this is cape 
Castillo. Southward of the cape the coast trends SSE. for 
1 mile as far as Coronilla point; this is a double projection, 
fronted by clusters of rocks, some of which are uncovered. 

The cerro Buena Yista is a remarkable sand-hill rising 
abruptly from the shores of the cape, and forming near the 
center a conical summit 187 feet in height, visible 15 miles. 

Marcos or Castillo Grande island lies IJ miles from the islands, 
shore; the summit rises abruptly to a height of 105 feet, 
and has the appearance of a tower; this island is rocky, 
barren, and about 300 yards in diameter; the center bears 
E. J from the summit of Buena Vista. 

Ilha de Tierra, or Castillo Chico, lies 8.J cables 8W. of 
Castillo Grande; it is of circular form, IGO yards in diame¬ 
ter, and about 40 feet in height; the summit is covered with 
brushwood, and bears E. | N. from the cerro Buena Vista. 

Both of these islands are steep-to; the channel between them 
is three-quarters of a mile in width, and 8 fathoms in depth ; 
that between Castillo Chico and the coast is 150 yards wide 
and 20 feet deep; the latter is seldom used on account of 
the rocks bordering the W. side. To jiass through clear of 
all dangers bring the E. extremity of cape Castillo to bear 
KW. ^ j!! 7., and steer for it on this bearing until the summit 
of Castillo Grande is open to the northward of Castillo 
Chico. 

Temporary anchorage during southerly gales may be had Anchorage, 
on theN. side of cape Castillo; the bottom is composed of 
sand, with occasional rocky patches, and in order to avoid 
letting go the anchor on one of the latter, the lead should 


6 


CAPE POLONIO. 


Cape Polonio. 




Anchorage. 


be examined before coming to. A good berth is in 5 J fathoms, 
the summit of tlie cerro bearing SSW., the summit of the 
Castillo Grande SE. by E. J E. There is also good anchor¬ 
age in 3 fathoms, fine sandy bottom, in the center of the 
bay, formed by cape Castillo to the wesfc and Castillo Chico 
islet to the southeast; here a vessel would lie at 2 cables 
from the nearest land, and should it come on to blow from 
^^E. she could run out between the islet and Coronilla point. 
These anchorages, which were formerly much frequented, 
are now completely forgotten. The mariner would do well 
to bear them in mind, for many a vessel disabled by a pampero 
in the entrance of the Plata has borne up for Santa Catharina 
or Rio de Janeiro to repair damages j others have been driven 
a long ways to sea, whereas had they known of these 
anchorages they might have run for them. The mariner 
should, however, be on the alert for a shift of wind to the 
EE., and i)ut to sea immediately, as these winds always 
cause a heavy sea on this coast. There is a good landing- 
place in the cove formed by the cape and the shore to the 
westward. In the angle of the bay at the foot of the cerro 
there is a small stream where a supply of fresh water may 
be procured. There is no fuel but the brushwood on the 
hill. 

The coast southward of Coronilla point trends S. by W. J 
W. 2| miles, as far as cape Polonio j it is a white-sand beach 
backed with downs 13 to 20 feet in height; these are in 
general barren, but on the summits of some of them there 
are a few clumps of bushes. The beach is steep-to ; a heavy 
surf constantly breaks on it. Cape Polonio is a steep rocky 
promontory forming three points, that to the EE. being named 
Polonio. It is crowned with two elevations, the highest 
being 120 feet above the level of the sea. The E. point projects 
to the northward and forms a cove, where there is a good 
landing-place for boats. From the extremity of this point 
the shore of the cape trends S. for2| cables, and then W. 2J 
cables ; from thence it trends to EVV., and connects with the 
sand-beach which forms the coast to the southward. There 
are several huts on the eastern side of the cape. 

In the bay between capes Castillo and Polonio there is 
anchorage with off-shore winds in a depth of 4 or 4J fathoms 
at half a mile, and in 7 or 8 fathoms at one mile from the 
shore ; the bottom is a fine muddy sand. 


TORRES ISLAND—BTSON REEF. 


7 


The rocks and islets east of cape Polonio are known as Torres islands, 
tbe Torres islands ; they are arid rocks, from 100 to 160 yards 
in diameter, and from 12 to 18 feet in height. They are 
divided into two groups. The eastern lies 1 mile and 3 
cables from the shore, the center bearing E. f from the 
summit of the cape; this group covers a space 3 cables in 
length NE. and SW. by IJ cables in width; the largest 
rock of this group is called Islote; the reef surrounding 
it is steep-to, with 7 fathoms close to the edges. The inner 
group is divided by a channel 1 cable wide and 13 feet deep. ^ 

The northern part comprises the island of Seca or Easa, 
several rocks, and a reef; the whole covers a space 4 cables 
long NNE. and SSW. by 2 cables wide; the southern part 
comprises the island Encantada, several rocks, and a reef, 
covering a circular space of 1^ cables in diameter. The 
edges of both reefs are steep-to, with 5 fathoms close to them, 
except in the NW. end of the northern, where there is a 
ledge of rocks extending IJ cables to the westward, on which 
there is not less than 23 feet of water. The center of Seca 
island lies 3 cables from the shore, E. by N. J N. from the 
summit of the cape; the center of Encantada lies half a mile 
from the shore E. ^ S. of the summit of the cape. 

The space between the inner and outer groups of the Bisson reef. 
Torres islands is encumbered with a dangerous reef nearly 
awash, 1 cable in diameter, which shows a breaker only 
during heavy gales from the offing. The center of this reef 
bears S. by E. from the cerro Buena Yista, and E. J 17. 
from the summit of cape Polonio; the edges are steep-to, 
with 74 fathoms close by; when there is an unusually strong 
current the position is indicated by a ripple on the surface. 

This reef was discovered early in the present century by the 
Spanish navigator Oyarvide, but its existence was not gene¬ 
rally known until 1862, when it was rediscovered by Captain 
Mouchez, commanding the Bisson, which vessel struck on 
it. The Spanish authorities have named the reef after the 
original discoverer. The French have named it Bisson after 
the vessel. 

Temporary anchorage may be had on the NE. side of Anchorages, 
cape Polonio during southerly gales, and on the SW. side 
during northerly gales. Vessels which have sought shelter 
in either case should be ready to get under way on the 
slightest indication of a change to the eastward; for, with 


POLONIO REEF. 


Keniarks. 


Polonio reef. 


an off-shore wind, both anchorages are untenable. The 
usual berth on the northern side is in 5 fathoms, the sum¬ 
mit of the cape bearing SW. J S.j that on the southern side 
is in fathoms, the summit of the cape bearing EXE. 

The passages between the Torres islands are frequented 
by those familiar with the locality 5 and in case of a vessel 
hugging the shore with the wind from the westward, they 
offer some advantages over the outside route. To pass 
between the inner group and the cape, bring the cerro Bu¬ 
ena Vista to bear X. J E., and steer for it on this bearing; 
favor the western side of the channel, because the shore of 
the cape is steep-to, and may be approached within a few 
yards. The least water in this passage is 23 feet. To pass 
between the Bisson reef and the inner group, bring the sum¬ 
mit of the cerro Buena Vista to bear X. f W., and steer for 
it on this bearing; there is not less than fathoms in this 
passage. Coming from the northward, bring the center of 
Encantada island to bear SSW., and steer for it on this bear¬ 
ing, until the center of Seca island bears WXW., then alter 
the course to SE. or ESE. until clear of the passage. To 
pass through the latter a vessel should be well handled, 
and have a fair wind. The passage eastward of Bisson 
reef is the least dangerous; to clear it bring the cerro Bu¬ 
ena Vista to bear X. by W. J W., and pass through either 
to the northward or southward, keeping it on this bearing; 
8 fathoms is the least water in this channel. 

The Polonio reef is a dangerous ledge of rocks lying 
miles SSW. f W. from the cape, and takes its name from 
a Spanish vessel lost on it in 1735. The reef extends 7 
cables WXW. and ESE., and the least water on it is 11 feet, 
while close to the edges there is a depth of 12 to 14 fathoms. 
The shoalest spot is marked by a breaker only when there is a 
sea running; it lies about one-third of the length of the reef 
from the western.end. Between the reef and the coast 
there is a channel 2 miles wide, and 10 to 12 fathoms in 
depth; but, as there is no advantage in using this channel, the 
mariner should avoid it. From the southeastern extremity 
of the ledge the following bearings have been observed : 


Cerro of Buena Vista..X. IG^ E. 

Eastern extremity of cape Polonio.X. 29° E. 

Easternmost islet of the Torres group.X. 46^ E. 

Highest peak of the cerro Chafalote.X. 05^ W. 







i' .i.'- 



































































































































































































CAPE SANTA MARIA. 


9 


It is liigli water, full and change, at cape Castillo at 8^ Tides and van- 
30™; the rise and fall of the tides depend greatly on the 
direction and force of the wind; southerly winds, partic¬ 
ularly those from SE., raise the water as much as 6 to 9 
feet above mean low-water level. During fine weather and 
moderate winds the rise is about 2 feet. The direction of 
the current is usually parallel to the coast line. Variation 
in 1874, 7° 45^ E., decreasing 4' annually. 

Between cape Polonio and Punta Rubia the coast is a Punta nubia, 
series of white sand-downs, between 70 and 130 feet in 
height; the trend is SW. | W. for 20 miles. With the 
exception of Polonio reef there is no danger; the beach is 
steep-to, 10 fathoms being found 1 mile from the breakers, 
and 12 fathoms at 2 miles. Punta Eubia is a reddish cliff, 
about 50 feet in height, which rises above the white downs 
on each side of itj its isolation and color make it one of the 
most remarkable landmarks on this coast. This point is 
also called Isla Falsa and Punta del Eodeo; the former 
name is derived from its similarity to an island when seen 
from a distance, the latter from a farm-house which stands 
on the cerro Narvaez, several miles inland, visible when/ 
navigating a short distance from the beach. Between 
Punta Eubia and cape Santa Maria the coast curves to the 
westward, and forms a bay three-quarters of a mile deep 
and 3J miles wide; the shores of this bay are low, and com¬ 
posed of white sand. 

Cape Santa Maria is a low point, which lies 24 miles SW. Santa 

of Polonio and 4 miles southward of Punta Eubia. It is 
called by the natives Punta de Eocha, from a town and 
lagoon of this name a few miles iidand. The coast between 
the point and cape forms a bay, in which is Arrecife anchor¬ 
age, well sheltered during westerly and southwesterly 
winds. There is also anchorage westward of the cape dur¬ 
ing off-shore winds in 6 tb 7 fathoms, about three-quarters 
of a mile from the beach. A reef of rocks makes out 1 cable 
southward of the cape. 

Northward of the cape there are two other points, each islets, 
fronted by an islet; the northernmost, Paloma, is green, 
between 25 and 30 feet in height, 7 cables in circumference, 
and bordered by a reef, showing a breaker, which extends 4 
cables to the NE. and 1 cable S. of its shores. The southern 
islet, named Tuna or Espinosa, is smaller and lower than 


10 


ARRECIFE ANCHORAaE. 


Paloina; it is sandy, crowned with a cluster of cactus, and 
covered with bushes. When seen from a distance both 
islets appear to be connected with the main land. 

Dangers. In 18G5 the British steamer Herschel struck the bottom 
in the vicinity of cape Santa Maria. In 1871 H. M. S. 
Speedwell, in searching for the danger, found the depth of 
fathoms at 2 miles E. J N. from the cape. Mr. Slack, 
master of the British steamer La Place, in 1872, reported a 
dangerous sand-bank off cape Santa Maria. The bank lies 
parallel to the shore, about 2 miles distant; its southwestern 
end, which is said to be very distinct, bear§ S. f W. from 
the flag-staff at port Paloma. There appeared to be a deep 
channel inside of the bank. 

Chouse, From a round, stone tower, 125 feet in height, situated on 
30" s.: longitude cape Santa Maria, there is exhibited at an elevation of 132 

540 20// W ' 

feet above the mean level of the sea, a revolving bright light, 
visible 18 miles in clear weather. The revolution is completed 
in one minute. The apparatus is dioptric—first order. 

Arrecife an- A ledge of rocks makes out IJ miles NE. by N. from the 
chorage. northern end of Paloma islet, and terminates in a rocky 

shoal, on which there is only 16 feet of water. During fresh 
winds from the offing the sea breaks on this shoal. The 
space between it and the coast is known as Arrecife anchor¬ 
age; it is sheltered from all winds between SSE. round by 
SW. to NW. Small vessels should anchor in 23 feet of 
water, bottom of sand and gravel, 5 cables N. of the center 
of Paloma islet and 4 cables from the coast, with the con¬ 
spicuous notch on the cape bearing N. 72^ W. Smaller 
vessels may find good shelter in 16 feet of water, 2J cables 
H. of the center of Paloma islet. This anchorage may be 
approached round the northern end of the shoal or across the 
ledge ; in thelattercase all danger will be avoided by keeping- 
half a mile from the NE. end of Paloma islet. NE. winds 
drive a heavy sea into this anchorage, which is then un¬ 
tenable ; the full force of the sea from SE. isi)artially broken by 
the ledge, but not sufficiently to make the anchorage secure. 
With all winds between S. and NW., round by E. and K, there 
is a heavy surf on the beach, and even during off-shore winds 
the roller is dangerous to boats. A landing may be effected 
on Paloma islet during southerly winds, and usually a boat 
may cross over the reef connecting this islet with the coast, 
and enter the port of Paloma, where there is always a safe 


I 

I 


.\XSI1I. 


View of tile lazid to the Nortliwaz'd. of CaLStillo 






Castdlj) I. 



BmerLCc-vistcL 
S. W.^ W.distj .0 7 n. 


CastDlo B. 


ChaJaiote- M. 
W'’S.aist 27 i rrv. 


Nclvot’o HUZ 
KW^’W. 


M^oie Tjos BiJwrctos 
N.WtN. 


AngostumB} 
N.^E. dZst. Mi 7ru 


'* if*' 

■ -v 


View of the lajid to the N. E. of C, Maxiso 



N}w:i w. 


View of the land to the S.W. of C. Maria, 





S^Igncudo HUZ 
N.W^WiV. dirt 31 -m.. 



Gargon Range 
N.Wi w. 


Re Rocha Range 
K.N.WtW 


ConspicxLOUs Mark over white Sand, hxUs 
Nfwi^w: aistdO rrt. 


Namvcoez: Jf 


Oia/dlote Mf 
N,iW£tist.Z9 m 





















































































PALOMA HAPBOR. 


11 


landing place to be found. The slioalest spot on the ledge 
bears N. S4P E. from the sand-down close to the shore, which 
is in line with the conspicuous notch in the hill on the cape 
when on this bearing. From the center of Paloma islet it 
bears N. 2oo E., and from the extremity of Punta Rubia S. 

10^ W. • this spot is 1 mile from the beach opposite. 

Paloma harbor, formed by a bight in the coast and the Paloma harbor, 
islets Paloma and Espinosa, is a circular basin about 4 ca¬ 
bles in diameter, haying a general depth of 8 or 9 feet, hard 
sand; it is well adapted for a few small vessels. The en¬ 
trance, which is between the two islets, is narrowed by the 
reefs extending from either islet toward the center, and 
leaving a channel about 50 yards in width. There is a rock, 
over which there is about 7 feet of water, nearly in the cen¬ 
ter of the channel; the best water is on the Paloma side. 

By keeping as close as possible to the edge of the breakers 
on this side, you will find not less than 11 feet, and will 
clear the rock, which it would be prudent to buoy before 
entering the channel. 

The channel on the other side of the rock is not over 8 to 
9 feet in depth, wi£h an irregular bottom. The deepest 
l)art of the harbor is just within the entrance, where there 
is 15 feet; but the space is so limited that it will be neces¬ 
sary to moor with an open hawse to SE. 

The British gunboat Pert, drawing 9 feet, entered Pa¬ 
loma harbor in ISTovember, 1872, and rode out a pampero 
there. The marks on the rocks indicate a rise and fall of 
about 3 feet, but the tides are very much influenced by the 
winds. There is a small stream of fresh water in the north¬ 
ern end of the harbor. An abundance of geese, ducks, 
swans, and partridges may be shot near Rocha lagoon, 
about 5 miles inland. 

^Tortherly winds cause a fall and southerly w inds a rise Tides, 
of tide in the vicinity of cape Santa Maria; the rise and 
fall are always in proportion to the strength and duration of 
the wind, but rarely exceed G feet. The reefs are usually 
covered at high water. The tidal currents are never very 
strong, but those produced by the wind are often very rapid, 
and require constant attention from the mariner. 

The soundings east of the cape are regular; 8 fathoms Soundings, 
is the general depth IJ miles from the land, and 20 to 22 
fathoms at 15 miles; the bottom is composed chiefly of sand 


12 


REMARKS—PIEDRAS POINT. 


Remarks. 


Point Pieclras. 


and mud. There is, however, an exception to this rule; a 
rocky ledge one quarter of a mile in length by W. 
and SE. by E., on which there is between 9 and 11 fath¬ 
oms depth, lies IJ miles SE. by E. of the cape. 

When approaching this coast from the offing it should 
be impossible to confound capes Castillo and Santa Maria; 
for in addition to the light-house on the latter there are sev¬ 
eral distinct marks which are easily recognized. In fine 
weather the difference of 17 miles should be a sufficient 
guide, but should it be cloudy cape Santa Maria may be 
distinguished by the sand-downs in the vicinity, which are 
of moderate elevation, and indented by three gaps, as seen 
from the northeast, the northernmost being twice as wide as 
the other two. Besides this the islets Paloma and Tuna are 
low, covered with brushwood, and lie so close to the coast 
that they appear attached to it unless you are close in shore. 
The reddish cliffs of Punta Eubia may also serve as a dis¬ 
tinguishing mark. No high land will be visible unless it be 
the cerro Narvaez, 12 miles northward of the cape, and 6 
miles from the coast. This cerro appears as a chain of hills, 
the center elevation being crowned with an esfcancia, or 
farm-house, with a single o^ribu tree near it. 

Cape Castillo is visible a greater distance than Santa 
Maria. It may be recognized by the round white sand-hill 
of Buena Vista, and rising up in front of it the steep dark 
islet Castillo Grande, and the detached green hill of cape 
Polonio, 3 miles to the southward. The hills northward of 
Castillo appear separated and conical, while those in the 
vicinity of Santa Maria are united and undulating. The 
extremity of Castillo is abrupt, while that of Santa Maria 
slopes gradually to the sea. In bad weather, if no land is 
seen, do not get in less than 15 fathoms depth, as there is 
a depth of 12 fathoms close to Polonio reef. 

The coast from cape Santa Maria trends W. 5 miles to the 
Laguna de Eocha and then SW. by W. J W. 21 miles to 
Piedras, or Jos6 Ignacio point. It is a regular sandy beach, 
backed with downs from 70 to 130 feet in height, with no 
conspicuous object that could be used as a mark, except 
the wreck of a vessel on the shor.e about 10 miles westward 
of the cape. A few farm-houses, with two or three omhu 
trees near them, are seen on the summits of the hills inland. 
Several openings between the downs indicate the outlets to 


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MALDONADO POINT. 


13 


tlie lagoons bordering the coast, such as the Eocha, Cardal, 

Garmon, Blanca, &c. As there are none of these gaps 
northward of Santa Maria, this feature serves as a good 
mark for the approach to Piedras Point. The coast is all 
along clear of outlying dangers, and at a distance of three- 
quarters of a mile from the shore there is a depth of 6 to 11 
fathoms. 

Point Piedras is well marked by a hill close to the shore, 
which rises above it, and on which there is a remarkable 
triangular patch of white sand fringed with verdure. It 
may also be distinguished by two large farm-houses, one, 
named Pescadores, 2 miles NW., the other 6 miles NE. of 
the point. The rocky shore which forms the point is two- 
thirds of a mile in extent E. and W., divided by a small 
sandy beach. A rocky ledge makes out from each end of 
this shore, forming a small basin in which boats may find 
shelter during winds from the offing; the rocks extend par¬ 
allel to the coast a distance of 7 or 8 .cables, with an open¬ 
ing between them, which is navigable by small craft. The 
sand-hill near the point is about oO feet in height. 

There is a plateau of rocks about 1 mile S. of the point Reef, 
over which there is a general depth of 5J to 8 fathoms, ex¬ 
cept in one spot where there is said to be a rock having 
only 20 feet over it. The existence and position of this 
rock are doubtful; there is, however, a dangerous shoal 
within 2 miles of the point, and it would be well not to ap¬ 
proach it inside of this limit. 

The Laguna Blanca communicates with the sea half a mile san jo»6 isna- 
eastward of Piedras point, and San Jose Ignacio lagoon 
about 3 miles westward of it. The latter is about 8 miles 
long in a northerly direction, with an average breadth of 3 
miles j it is said to be deep, and it has been proposed to cut 
a ship-canal across the narrow belt of sand separating it 
from the sea, so as to make a safe harbor for ships of all 
sizes. 

The coast westward of Piedras point is a continuous sandy Maldonado 
beach, similar to that to the eastward, as far as the entrance 
to Maldonado rivulet, where there is a rocky point named 
Maldonado. The beach eastward of the opening is clean, 
and forms a bend miles deep; that to the westward is 
strewn with dark rocks above the water-line, and is almost 
straight. 


14 


LOBOS ISLAND. 


East point Piiiita (Icl Esto, or East point, the termination of this 
coast and the eastern point of the estuary, is a low, dark 
headland making out to the southward from the end of 
some uniform wliite sand-downs. Rocky ledges front the 
shores of the point, and extend nearly 1 mile WSW. of 
it. Approaching from the offing the light-tower is usually 
the first object seen, unless the atmosphere is unusually 
clear, when the Pan Azucar and sierra de las Animas 
may be seen in the NW. The white dowuis in the vicinity 
of the point are not usually made out until you are close in 
shore. 

Ligiit-iiouse, On the summit of the highest down, about 24 cables from 

latitude 34° 58' , . ^ . 

i5'^s^; jongHude the extremity of East point, there is a round, white, stone 
tower, 95 feet in height, from which there is exhibited, at 
an elevation of 152 feet above mean sea-level, ^ fixed bright 
light, visible 20 miles in clear weather. 

Lobos island Lobos island, 4 miles ISE. J S. of the light-house, is 6 ca¬ 
bles in length N. and.S., bySJ in width j it is low, flat, rug¬ 
ged and surrounded by a belt of rocks which render the 
shores inaccessible, except at one place on the northern side, 
where there is a small cove and sand-beach. The highest 
part is near the center, 65 feet above sea-level, and may be 
seen a distance of 12 to 15 miles from the mast-head. A 
flag-staff and several huts are situated near the center of 
the island. Lobos is used as a station for sealing, and is 
said to be very much frequented by hair-seal. There are 
a great many rabbits on the island. From a distance it 
appears barren and of yellowish color, but when close by 
it is seen to be covered with low brushwood. The west¬ 
ern shore is steep-to, with 12 fathoms within two cables ; the 
southeastern side is fronted by a ledge of rocks extending 
out 2 cables to SE., some of which are uncovered and awash. 
Four cables E. of the island there is a detached reef extend¬ 
ing 44 cables E. and W. 5 the crown of this reef is formed 
by two large rocks, always uncovered, situated near the west¬ 
ern end; the sea breaks heavily on this reef. Between it 
and the reef bordering the island there is a channel 3 cables 
in width, and from 3J to 7 fathoms in depth; the western 
side is very steep-to, but the eastern side forms two ledges, 
one of 3J fathoms, the other of 10 or 12 feet close to the rocks. 
The breakers mark the edges of this channel, which may be 
used during the day in case of necessity. It is not safe to 


VIEW OF LOBOS ISLAND 



N. hyV/. 


VIEW OF THE COAST IN THE VICINITY OF PT NEGRA 



N. Fy W. _ 20 ■rmLf a 


■pt Ne^a. • 


'Pajt ie Atucar 

i4 nulfcfl. 


North.. 


N. 2£^5oE 


FLORES ISLAND . CERRO oF MONTEVIDEO 






































































MOUNTAINS. 


15 


approach the north end of Lobos island nearer than 3 cables, 
as the bottom is uneven, and there are several rocky heads 
with only 3 fathoms over them. The channel between Lobos Channel be- 
and the mainland is 4 miles in width, and from 11 to 10 the main-land, 
fathoms in depth, with a soft bottom ; it is used by the ma¬ 
jority of vesselsbonndintotheestuary,for itisclearof danger, 
and, should there be light variable airs or a calm, there is 
plenty of room to work, and good anchorage anywhere. 

The cries and odor of the seals which abound on the island, 
chiefly on the northern and eastern sides, are often distin¬ 
guished at night before the island is seen. 

Before commencing the description of the northern coast Mountains, 
of the estuary, it is desirable to mention the hills and 
mountains bordering it, which are visible from the offing, 
and serve as landmarks for the approaches. 

The sierra de Oarbonero, visible 10 miles from the land, 
on the parallel of 33^ 45' S., is a chain 4J miles long E. and 
W., situated 9J miles inland, on the boundary between 
Brazil and Uruguay. The central part of the chain is the 
highest. Fort San Miguel stands on one of the slopes of 
the hills, and is very conspicuous from the offing. 

The cerro de los Difuutos is a cluster of hills of nearly equal 
elevation,situated on thew^estern shore of an extensive lagoon ^ 

6 miles from the sea. When bearing NW. there is seen a 
remarkable cut or ravine, which serves as a distinguishing 
mark. 

The cerro Chico or Agudo de Navarro, is a conical, barren 
mountain, rising from the center of a cluster of hills situated 5 
miles from the cerro de los Difuntos and 9 miles from the sea, 
on the parallel of 34^ 07' S. 

The cerros de Ohafalote, on the parallel of capes Castillo 
and Polonio, 19 miles from the sea, are readily recognized 
by their isolation in a plain, greater elevation than the 
others, and peculiar outlines, which, when seen from the east¬ 
ward, present three summits, the center one being the 
highest; on each side of these there are deep ravines. 

Between the parallels of capes Castillo and Santa Maria soundings, 
the depth is from 8 to 13 fathoms 2 miles from the land, and 
remains about the same for a distance of 16 to 18 miles off 
shore. The quality of the bottom changes from fine sand 
and broken shells to sand and mud at the latter distance. 


IG 


MOUNTAINS. 


;Mouutaiiis. 


Pail Azncar. 


About 20 miles E. of cape Castillo the depth is between 13 
and 16 fathoms, bottom of fine sand mixed with mud. 

The Loma de Narvaez is a chain of hills 6 miles from the 
sea; the center one is the highest; on its summit are the 
farm of Don Carlos, and a tall, isolated tree, which make 
it conspicuous from the offing. The Silla Chica is a small, 
dark-colored hill, shaped like a saddle, situated 13 miles in¬ 
land. Although it is not very high, it is remarkable from 
the offing by its isolation and peculiar form, particularly 
noticeable when bearing N. 

The Silla Grande is higher than the preceding, but of sim¬ 
ilar form; the northern side is steep, and rises abruptly from 
a low plain; it is situated 18 miles from the sea, and is most 
remarkable when bearing N., by W. J W. 

The morro San Ignacio is a lofty and remarkable summit 
which rises over a series of undulating hills named Aspere- 
zas de Maldonado. It is situated 19 miles N. J W. of Piedras 
imiut. 

Los Tres Cerros is the name of a small hill with three 
summits, the western being the highest; it is situated 8 
miles S W. by W. from the morro San Ignacio. 

The cerro de Carape, situated 19 miles northward of East 
point, is of moderate elevation, and has a large rounded sum¬ 
mit. 

The morros de Maldonado are a chain of small hills 
extending 2J miles SE. and NW.; the extremities of the 
chain are more elevated than the center. 

The sierra de la Balleiia is a range of dark, rocky hills, 
which extend 6 miles in a N. JE. direction from Ballena point. 
This chain rises gradually from the extremities to the center. 
A large patch of white sand on the southern slope of one of 
the hills 2 miles N. ^ E. of the point, is conspicuous from 
the offing, particularly between the bearings W. and SW. 

The Pan Azucar and sierra de las Animas are the highest 
mountains of all this coast; they are the summits of a chain 
of rugged hills extending NNW. from Punta Negra; they 
are visible 38 to 40 miles in clear weather, and make a use¬ 
ful mark for vessels approaching directly from the offing. 
The Pan Azucar is nearly a regular cone, and rises 1,375 feet 
above the sea at only 3 miles from the beach; it is of granite, 
barren, dark, and isolated from the surrounding eminences. 
The height of the mountain and the diameter of the base are 










































































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MALDONADO BAY. 


17 


about the same. The sierra de las Animas is higher than Sierra de las 

and unlike the preceding; the summit being about 1,765 

feet above sea-level, flattened, and with a slight depression 

giving it a resemblance to the form of a saddle, i)articiilarly 

when seen in the W. The other summits of this chain 

are of much less elevation ; those to the SE. are called cer- 

ros Ingles, Chico, and Toros; that to the NW. the cerro Betet. 

Maldonado bay is comprised between East point and Maldonado bay. 
Ballena point; the extremity of the latter is 5J miles NW. J 
W.from that of the former. The bay is open toSW., the winds 
from this quarter driving a heavy sea into it, and were it not 
for Gorriti island, which aflbrds only partial shelter, the an¬ 
chorage would be untenable during southerly gales. The 
shores of the bay are composed of sand, backed with downs 
of 20 to 40 feet elevation, on which there is scanty vegeta¬ 
tion near the sea, but gradually becoming thicker inland. 

The beach is generally steep, with G to 10 feet of water 
within a few yards of the surf; in some places the depth 
increases rapidly to 3 or 4 fathoms within 1 cable, while at 
others the bottom shelves gradually, and this depth is not 
reached up to a distance of 4 cables from the siiore. The 
latter is generally the case on the eastern side of the bay, 
while the western side is steep-to. The only break in the 
beach is a rocky patch miles E. of Ballena, named 
Granite or Arrecife point. It is bordered by a ledge of 
rocks extending 2 cables SSW. from the extremity; at 
this distance there is 20 feet of water, and close by the 
depth increases to 4 fathoms, and to G fathoms at 2J cables 
from the point. There is a pool of fresh water 50 yards 
from the sea, 4 cables E. of Granite point. There is a 
wooden pier on the shores of the bay, miles northward 
of the K end of Gorriti island, where boats may load and 
discharge during fine weather and a smooth sea; there 
are no steps, and as the pier is a good height above the 
mean sea-level, it is not a suitable lauding for passengers. 

The only place which affords a safe landing at all times is 
a cove on the western side of East point, near the light¬ 
house. This landing is protected by the northern end of 
East point, which projects cables N. of the beach, and 
by Gorriti island, which breaks the sea from the westward. 

The road from the latter landing to the town, a distance 
2 R p 


18 


GORRITI ISLAND—EAST BANK. 


Gon-iti island. 


East bank. 


of 4 miles, is along the beach. Horses may sometimes be 
hired from the inhabitants of the point. 

Gorriti island is 9 cables long N. and S. and between 2 
and 4 cables in width; it is lower in the center than at the 
ends. On the western side there is a shallow bay, with an 
opening of 3J cables and depth of cables. The surf is 
usually so heavy on the beach that it is dangerous for 
boats to attempt a landing. The eastern shore is straight 
and rocky, and accessible only in fine weather. The island 
has been fortified, but at the present time the batteries are 
in ruins, and the guns remaining in them are unfit for use. 
The island is well adapted for exercising seamen at infantry 
drill on shore, and has the advantage of having no inhabit¬ 
ants to sell them liquor. There is a large building on the 
northern end, which is used for storing the skins and oil 
obtained from the seals that abound in the bay. 

The shores of the island are fronted b^^ a rocky and sandy 
shoal of less than 3 fathoms depth. Commencing from the 
SE. extremity, it borders the south side at a distance of 1 
cable, turns to the northward and fronts the west side, the 
outer edge extending nearly in a straight line, from 
cables W. of the southern point to 1 cable W. of the NW. 
point. The edge of the shoal then turns to the eastward, and 
passes about half a cable from the extreme northern point 
of the island. The shoal makes out half a mile E. by H. 
of this point; the edge then trends to SSW., and the shoal 
on this side terminates about two-thirds the length of the 
island from the northern point, leaving a space about 2 
cables in extent where the shore is steep-to, with a depth 
of 4 fathoms within a few yards of it. The landing for 
boats is on this space. The edges of the bank are steep-to. 

East bank is a rocky ledge, about 2 cables in diameter, 
surrounded by a bank of sand, the whole covering an ir¬ 
regular space 4 cables long NE. and SW., by 3 cables in 
width. The depth of water on the rocks varies between 9 
and 18 feet; that on the bank between 4 and 5 fathoms, 
with occasional shoaler spots of 3 fathoms. Several of the 
rocks show above the surface; when the sea is smooth and 
water low, the shoalest part isalwaj^s marked by a breaker. 
The edges of the bank are steep-to, with 6 and 8 fathoms 
within half a cable of them. The center of the rocky ledge 
lies 3 cables from the shore, bears SW. by W. | W. from the 




NEW ROCK—MONARCH ROCK. 


19 


light house, and is exactly on the meridian of Maldonado 
tower. The channel between the ledge of rocks bordering 
East point and the dangerous depths on East bank is about 
1 cable wide, and between 4J and 6 fathoms in depth. 

New rock is a circular ledge three-quarters of a cable in 
diameter, with not less than fathoms bn the shoalest 
part; the soundings change suddenly from 6 or 7 fathoms, 
all round the edges, to 4.J fathoms on the ledge ; it is dan¬ 
gerous only during heavy gales from the southward, and 
seldom shows broken water. The center of this ledge 
bears S. 71^ W. from the light house and S. W. from 
Maldonado tower. It lies one mile and 2 cables W. J S. from 
the extremity of East point. The channel between this ledge 
and East bank is half a mile wide, and not less than 7 
fathoms in depth. 

Monarch rock is a rocky head with only 18 feet of water 
over it, surrounded by a cluster of rocks, 4 to 5 fathoms 
below the surface, the whole covering a space 2 cables long 
SE. and NW., by cables in width. The shoalest spot 
bears NW. J W. from the light house, and SW. by S. from 
Maldonado tower. It lies half a mile NW. by W. J W. from 
the NW. point of Gorriti island. The space between the 
edge of this bank and of that surrounding Gorriti island is 
3 cables wide, and from to 7 fathoms in depth. The dan¬ 
gerous part is so small that the sea never breaks on it; with 
a very heavy southerly gale the surface is broken, but not 
enough to be easily remarked. 

East of Gorriti island, and between the bank which makes 
out from the NE. end and that fronting the shores of the 
bay, the depth varies between 4 and 5 fathoms, except in 
two places. One of these has 3 fathoms of water over a 
space 1 cable long and half a cable wide; it lies S. J B. from 
Maldonado tower and E. J N. from the north extremity of 
Gorriti island, about midway between the NE. end of the 
island and the opposite shore. The other is IJ cables long 
by 1 cable wide, and has 3 fathoms of water over it, except 
in one place, near the western end, where there is 13 feet;, 
this spot bears N. i W. from the light-house, and E. by S. 
from the northern extremity of Gorriti island. Both of 
these shoals should be carefully avoided when api)roaching. 
or leaving the anchorage. 


New rock. 


Monarch rock. 


20 


LEADING MARKS—ANCHORAGES. 


Leading marks. The leading mark to clear the south edges of New rock 
and East bank is with the extremity of East point bearing 
E. by N. 

The leading mark to pass between East bank and East 
point is with the NE. end of Gorriti island bearing NNW. 
J \Y. Ai)proaching this channel from the eastward close 
with East point to within 2 cables when abreast of it, and 
haul up as soon as the NE. end ot‘ Gorriti is open of the 
western side of the point; the bearing will be on about the 
time the course is changed to NNW. J W. The space is 
narrow and requires prompt handling to pass through it 
safely. None but steamers should attempt it. 

To pass between East bank and New rock bring the 
NE. end of Gorriti island in line with the pier on the shores 
of the bay bearing N. J W., and steer for them on this bear¬ 
ing until the light house bears E. 

To pass to the westward of New rock bring the S W. side 
of Gorriti in line with Maldonado tower bearing N. by E. ^ 
E., and steer for them on this bearing until the light-house 
bears E.; then steer in about midway between Gorriti island 
and the western side of East point. 

To pass between Gorriti island and Monarch rock bring 
the dome of the cemetery in line with tlie pier, bearing N. 
by E. f E., and steer for them on this bearing until the north 
end of Gorriti island bears SE. by E.; then change the 
course to E. until the anchorage is reached. 

To pass to the westward of Monarch rock bring Maldon¬ 
ado tower in line with the pier bearing NE. ^ N., and steer 
for them on this bearing until the northern end of Gorriti 
island bears SE. by E. 

The line of bearing between the light house and the house 
which stands close to the pier is N. by W. | W. and S. by E. 
3 E.; it is on this line of bearing that vessels should pass 
between Gorriti island and the shores of the bay; the least 
depth is 4J fathoms. 

Anchorages. The aiichoragcs in the bay are on the northern side of 
Gorriti island during southerly gales and on the eastern side 
during westerly gales. The former drive a heavy sea into 
the bay, between East point and the island; with gales 
from the SW. the sea is dangerous in the latter anchorage. 
Before letting go the anchor the lead should be carefully 
examined, so as to avoid anchoring on one of the many rocky 












































































































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MALDONADO TOWN. 


21 


patclies found on the eastern side of the island. Where 
these do not exist, the bottom is composed of a thin layer of 
sand, covering a stiff muddy substance, which allows the 
anchors to take a good hold. Vessels should moor, open 
hawse to SW., if intending to make a long stay. 

The town of Maldonado is situated three-quarters of a mile Maldonado 
NE. of the pier. The only parts of it visible from the bay are ° 
a tower and the cemetery dome. The former is a square, 
white building, with a reddish base, which stands on rising 
ground, about 250 feet above sea-level; the latter is not so 
conspicuous, but can be distinguished ; it is situated about 
midway between the pier and the tower, and to the westward 
of the latter. 

The town was founded in 1724, and for a long time was 
the capital of the province of the same name; during the 
last 10 years it has rapidly declined in commercial impor¬ 
tance, and in August, 1871, appeared to be almost deserted. 

At this date, the number of inhabitants was estimated at 
800 ; there appeared to be no business whatever transacted 
in the town, and the inhabitants seemed driven almost to 
desperation by the unsettled condition of the country. 

The department of Maldonado has an area of about 5,000 
square miles; the limits of its sea-coast are from the Chuy 
river, northward of East point, to Solis Grande river, west¬ 
ward of Animas point, within the estuary, a distance of 
about 150 miles, including the sinuosities. The inhabitants 
were estimated at 15,500 in 1800. The most iuiportant 
town is that of San Carlos, 8 miles farther inland than 
Maldonado. The industry of the department is confined to 
raising cattle, horses, and sheep ; the estimated number of 
these in 1871 was 600,000 head, of which the large majority 
were cattle and sheep. Some revenue is derived from the 
sea wmlf and seals, which abound along the coast and in the 
neighborhood of capes Castillo and Polonio, and the shores 
of Lobos island. 

Water is the only thing that could be readily obtained at Supplies. 
Maldonado in 1871. There is a small running stream pass¬ 
ing close to the town and emptying into the bay about 15 
yards east of the pier; the water of this stream is pure and 
good, if taken some distance from the beach; the best plan 
is to land casks on the pier and roll them to the stream. 

There is always a heavy surf on the beach during the south- 


22 


BALLENA POINT—TIDES AND CURRENTS. 


Pilots. 


. Ballena point. 


Tides and cur 
rents. 


erly gales, and for several days after they have ceased. 
Fresh beef aud mutton may be had if a day’s notice is given; 
poultry and other live stock are cheaper than at Monte¬ 
video. In the season the neighboring country abounds in 
quail and partridges, which may be shot with ease and 
without dogs. 

Pilots for Montevideo and Buenos Ayres cruise in schoon¬ 
ers and sloops in the vicinity of Maldonado; they frequently 
anchor in the bay. Some of the men reside on the point, 
and, in case of necessity, one may always be had either 
from Maldonado or the houses close to the light house. 

Ballena point is a dark, rocky projection, which makes 
out from the foot of some sandy hills extending 3 or 4 miles 
inland. The surface of the point has the shape of a saddle 
when seen from the eastward and westward. The Pan 
Azucar, the depression forming the saddle, and Monarch 
rock, are on the line of bearing SE. by E. J E. and l^W. by 
W. i W. 

The extremity of the point is fronted by a ledge of rocks, 
portions of which uncover at low water; this ledge extends 
2 cables southward of the point; it is steep-to, with 4 to 6 
fathoms close to the edge about one-quarter of a mile from 
the shore. 

The tides of Maldonado bay are influenced by the pre¬ 
vailing wind, southerly winds producing a rise, northerly 
winds a fall; the rise or fall usually precedes the wind, and 
sometimes serves as a means of foretelling its approach. 
Admiral Fitz Boy (li. N.) observed that the temperature 
of the water falls when a southerly gale is approaching, and 
rises when a northerly gale is approaching; this has since 
been confirmed by subsequent observers, and may be re¬ 
garded as an established rule, subject, however, to some 
exceptions. In the limits of the bay, the usual direction of 
the flood is from NW. to SE. The waters seem to flow into 
the bay between the northern end of Gorriti island and 
Ballena point, and flow out between the southern end of 
Gorriti and East point. The direction of the ebb is oppo¬ 
site to that of the flood. Eddies are formed along the 
shores of the island and bay; these are always stronger 
with the flood than with the ebb, and are generally in pro¬ 
portion to the strength of the tidal current. The mean 



POTRERO BAY TO AFILAR POINT. 


23 


difference in the level of the sea is C.J feet j the maximum is 
10 or 12 feet. 

The indentation of the coast between Ballena and Easa Potrero bay. 
points is known as Potrero bay ; it takes the name from a 
lagoon which has an outlet near the middle of the bay. 

The shores are steep-to; the depth of water on the line 
of bearing between the points is 6 and 7 fathoms; the bot¬ 
tom is coarse sand and gravel. Vessels bound to sea, 
caught in a northerly or easterly gale, will find good shelter 
under Ballena point, if they cannot reach Maldonado bay. 

Negra point is a bold promontory 3 miles in length E. Negra point, 
and W., forming three points with sandy shores between 
them. The eastern point is named Easa, (Level,) the mid¬ 
dle one, Negra, (Black,) and the western, Iman, (Magnet;) 
they are backed with the high lands which rise rapidly to 
form the Pan Azucar and cerro de las Animas. The 
soundings off this headland range from 4 to 5 fathoms close 
to the rocks, deepening rapidly to 7 and 10 fathoms. 

Burros (Donkey) point is 2J miles NNW. of point Iman; English port, 
the intervening shore curves to the eastward, forming a 
bay known as English port, which is well protected from 
easterly winds. On the line of bearing between the points 
the depth is 4 to 5 fathoms, and in the bay it is 19 to 23 
feet. Five miles NW. of Burros point there is a low pro¬ 
jection, fronted b}" a reef which borders the shore for 2 
miles, named Cerro point. West of this reef the shore 
becomes clear of all rocks as far as Afilar point. 

Afilar point is 7 miles to the westward; the river Solis Aaiar point. 
Grande emi>ties into the sea between these iioints. Afilar 
derives its name from some conical hills close by, which 
contain quarries of w^hetstone. Two of these hills, higher 
than the others, are conspicuous from the offing. There is 
a signal-station on the summit of the northern hill, which 
is the highest of the range. A spur of the southern hill 
forms the point, which is low, projects to SSAV., and is 
bordered by rocks, which are steep-to, with 5 fathoms of 
water close by. The surf is high on this part of the coast. 

Solis reef, a cluster of rocks 4 cables in length E. soiureef. 
and W., by 2 cables N. and S., is covered at high-water, 
and always marked by a breaker; it lies under the following / 

bearings, taken from the crown of the reef: Afilar point. 


24 


PIEDRAS NEGRAS POINT TO OARRETAS POINT. 


N. 600 w.; Negra point, S. 60o E.; summit of the Pan 
Azucar, IST. 8Co E. 

Afiiar reef. Afilar reef, situated IJ miles S. J W. of the point of this 
name, is uncovered except at very high water, when it 
shows a breaker; it is nearly 1 mile in length, N. and 
S., including the shoal ground surrounding the rocks. 
The channel between it and the point has a depth of 3 
fathoms, but only in the middle; the navigable part is not 
over a cable in width. 

piedras Negras The next saliciit point, situated 10 miles W. J N. of Afi- 
lar, is named Piedras Kegras, from the dark rocks of which 
it is formed. The intermediate shore forms a bight, and is 
an irregular sand-beach, except in one place, where there is 
a double projection of dark-colored rocks, with a strip of 
sand-beach between, named Pedro Lopez point. The Solis 
Chico river empties into the sea about midway between 
this point and Piedras Xegras. The latter is also a double 
lirojection, with a narrow strip of sand between ; it appears 
to be fronted with a ledge of rocks, some of which are above 
the water, extending out a distance of 1 mile to the E., S., 
and W. There is said to be a navigable channel 3 fathoms 
in depth between the rocks and the point, but it is suitable 
for boats only. 

Santa Kosa Eor 19 miles westward of Piedras Negras the shore is an 
extensive gravel-beach as for as Oarretas point; the trend 
of the coast is very irregular, but the beach is clear of dan¬ 
gers, and steep-to, as far as the meridian of Elores island. 
Santa Rosa bay lies immediately north of Piedras Negras 
point; it has an opening of miles, and depth of 3 to 4 
fathoms, with a clean, sandy shore, where boats may land 
during fine weather and off-shore winds. There is a stream 
of fresh water emptying into this bay. 

The sea is always heavy oft* this coast during southerly 
gales, and the currents often set rapidly toward the land ; 
from these causes many vessels have been lost in this vicin¬ 
ity, and their crews have perished in the heavy surf. 

Pando river. The Pando rivcT empties into the estuary 7 miles west¬ 
ward of Piedras Negras point. On its right bank, about 5 
miles inland, is the town of Pando, a place of no commer¬ 
cial importance. 

Carretas point. Carretas, or Buceo point, is a low, rock}^, iirojection 
crowned with a single omhu tree, which serves as an excel- 


























































































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BRAVA POINT—FLORES ISLAND. 


25 


lent mark. This point lies 7 miles NW. by W. J W. of 
Flores light, and 5 miles E. by K | N. of Brava point. 

Point Brava is low and salient, terminating in a rocky Brava poiut. 
ledge which makes off half a mile to the southward, where 
there is a detached rock awash, and close to it a depth of 4 
fathoms, bottom of mud. The point is backed by a hill of 
moderate elevation, having on its southern slope a large, 
white building. The village of Buceo, on the shores of a 
small cove to the northward of the point, will also serve as 
a landmark when approaching it from the eastward. 

The bend formed by the coast between Buceo and Brava Basuras bay. 
lioints is named Basuras bay ; the shore is a series of rock}^ 
points intersected with strips of sandy beach forming coves, 
each having a name known only to the natives. Several 
small streams empty in this stretch of coast. There are 
three islets, very close to the land, which are not distin¬ 
guished unless you are well in shore. One of these, the 
largest, named Meldroza, shelters an anchorage for small 
vessels, in which there is a depth of 20 feet. 

Flores island, readily recognized by the light-house, lies Fiores island. 
5G miles W. J N. from Lobos island, and directly in the track 
of vessels bound to Montevideo from sea. The island is 7 
cables in length in a direction northeast and southwest, and 
2 cables in breadth ; there is a slight elevation in the mid¬ 
dle, and one at either end, that to the southwest being the 
highest; the land uniting these being very low, it is fre¬ 
quently overflowed, and the island is then seen as three islets. 

The shores are steep, except to the northeast, where a reef 
makes off to NW. a distance of half a mile. There is good an¬ 
chorage all around the island, but the best berth is with the 
light-house bearing ESE. half a mile off, in 5 fathoms, mud 
bottom. Small vessels lie in a creek in the western end of 
Flores. 

On the highest part of the island there is a white stone Fiores Ught- 

. , , ... ■. . -house, latitud © 

tower, 6o feet in height, which exhibits, at an elevation of34° 56' 55 " s.? 
104 feet above the mean level of the sea, a revolving bright 
light, visible 12 miles in clear weather. The light revolves 
in one minute j the apparatus is dioptric, second order. 

Variation in 1874 ,90 00'E. An impression has prevailed variation, 
among mariners that the lights of the Plata are not well at¬ 
tended, and are, therefore, unreliable; this is unjust to the 
keepers; for personal observation has proved that the re- 


26 


DANGERS NORTH OF FLORES. 


Dangers. 


Sara bank. 


Bump shoal. 


Carretas reef. 


port is without foundation, in fact. Doubtless the lights are 
frequently invisible, but this is the result of a haze which 
obscures the horizon, leaving the sky overhead clear and 
bright. 

About three-quarters of a mile SW. J W. of the light, 
house there is an isolated rock, or ledge of rocks, extending 
about 1 cable ESE. and WN W., half a cable in breadth, and 
surrounded by a depth of 5 fathoms, soft, muddy bottom, on 
which two English ships of war have struck. The shoalest 
part is said to have a depth of not less than 16 feet, and to 
consist of a rock 8 to 10 yards in circumference, on which 
H. M. S. Cumberland, in 1857, struck and remained aground 
several hours. 

The space comprised between north and south lines drawn 
through Flores light-house and Buceo point, and an east 
and west line drawn through Flores light-house and the 
coast to the northward, has recently been accurately sur¬ 
veyed by the officers of the U. S. S. Wasp, and instead of 
the numerous dangers which were formerly said to exist, 
there are found to be only the following, the i)ositions of 
which are no longer in doubt: 

Sara bank is a rocky patch situated 4 miles W. by N. | 
N. of Flores light,* on which there is an average depth of 12 
to 14 feet, but as little as 9 feet over the western end j its 
greatest diameter is 500 yards. The soundings decrease 
rapidly from 4 and 4^ fathoms, muddy bottom, to 3 fathoms, 
rocky bottom, at a distance of 200 yards from the edges of 
the shoal, giving scant warning to a vessel moving rapidly. 

Bump shoal lies 5J cables X. of the preceding, and 4 
miles 3 cables KW. by W. of Flores light house. Its great¬ 
est diameter is 300 yards j the general depth on the shoal 
is 9 to 12 feet, rocky bottom ; but there are some pointed 
rocks with only 4 feet over them at ordinary stages of the 
tide. This spot rarely breaks, and is dangerous j it has, 
doubtless, heretofore, been considered as a part of Carretas 
reef, from which, however, it is distinctly separated by a 
channel 500 yards in width, having not less than 3 fathoms 
depth over a soft, muddy bottom. 

Carretas, or Pipas reef, is a cluster of rocks rising to a 
height of 10 feet or more above the general level of the 
water, and rarely, if ever, being covered; these extend over 
a space 4 cables in length east and west, and about 1 cable 


DANGERS NORTH OF FLORES. 


27 


ia breadth. The largest aud highest, named Mark rock, is 
also the easternmost; it stands quite alone, the rest of the 
group being visible to the left, but clearly separated from it. 

The rock is dark, showing well against the white beach, 
and is visible from the deck of a vessel a distance of 3 
miles during the day, appearing from this distance to be 
on the beach, from which it is really 1J miles distant. Its 
position is short 5 miles XW. by W. J W. from Flores 
light-house. Northward of the rocks the bottom shelves 
gradually to a depth of 12 feet at a distance of 300 yards, 
where it shoals abruptly, and there is a rock just awash 
situated 400 yards XW. by X. of Mark rock. Xear to the 
southern and w^estern edges of the reef there are one or two 
detached rocks below the surface; and a ledge of rocks 
awash extends 200 to 300 yards E. of Mark rock. The 
southern edges are steep-to, with 4 and 4J fathoms, muddy 
bottom, within 100 yards; on the northern side the change 
of depth is not as abrupt, but the bottom is not sufficiently 
shelving to give warning. 

Forest King reef is a long, narrow ledge of rocks, extend- ^ 

ing half a mile in a direction XXW. J \Y. and SSE. J E. 

The general depth is 7 to 9 feet, but there are shoaler spots 
where there is from 4 to 6 feet only at low water. The 
position of the southern rock is 5J miles W. by X. ^ X. 
from Flores light-house, and IJ miles SW. by W. from 
Mark rock. Between the northern rock aud the edge of 
the shoal surrounding Luz island, off Buceo point, there is 
a channel half a mile in width aud 4 fathoms in depth, over 
a muddy bottom, through which a vessel may pass in case 
of necessity. Between the eastern edge of Forest King 
and the western edge of Carretas there is a channel 1^ 
miles in width with not less than 3J fathoms. With one 
exception. Forest King reef is the most dangerous; on one 
occasion, the surveying boats pulled directly across it, only 
one of them obtaining soundings in rocky bottom. A vessel 
might strike the reef without the slightest warning from 
the lead or otherwise, as a depth of 4 fathoms, muddy bot¬ 
tom, exists within 200 yards of the rocks. 

Luz islet lies 1,000 yards SE. by S. of Carretas point. Luz islet. 
This is the crown of a narrow reef of rocks which commences 
within 100 yards of the point, and extends to SE. by E. a 
distance of half a mile; the rocks usually visible extend 


28 


REMARKS—BUEN VlAJE SHOAL. 


about 400 yards, but the bottom for a quarter of a mile on 
all sides is rocky and uneven, with depths ranging between 
15 and 20 feet. Luz islet is usually about 5 feet above the 
water-level, but in high tides it is awash. There is a boat- 
channel between the extremity of the point and the north¬ 
ern edge of the reef. 

Eemarks. The souudings, except in the immediate vicinity of the 
reefs, are very regular, the depth decreasing gradually 
from 5J fathoms, near Flores island, to 3 fathoms, which 
in ordinary stages of the river can be carried to within 400 
yards of the beach. The bottom is mud, generally soft, 
and affording good anchorage. 

In beating in or out of the river, it is not advisable to 
bring Flores island to bear southward of E. If, however, 
it is desired to stand to the northward of this bearing, the 
light-house and Mark rock afford good marks for cross¬ 
bearings when you are westward of the island. The main¬ 
land for a considerable distance eastward of Flores is de¬ 
void of trees. The first tree seen stands out prominently. 
The next, to the westward, is tall and very full, resembling 
a large oak; it stands on the top of the low range of hills, 
showing out well against the sky, and at its foot on either 
side is a low clump of bushes. On the slope of the hill, S. 
J W. of the foregoing, there is a smaller tree, much resem¬ 
bling it; this is below the line of the top of the hills, but 
shows distinctly by reason of its dark foliage. The two lat¬ 
ter trees form a range, to the eastward of w^hich there is no 
danger. On a cloudy day the range can be made out a dis¬ 
tance of 7 miles. There are other ranges, useful to those 
familiar with the ground, but not likely to be gotten hold 
of by a stranger. 

The direction of the current is always more irregular 
north of Flores than to the southward; and the set is al¬ 
ways stronger; it is therefore no advantage to a vessel beat¬ 
ing in or out to stand to the northward of the island. 

Buen viaje The Baeu Yiaje shoal is nearly circular, about half a mile 
in diameter, and consists of a ledge of rocks, some parts of 
which are often awash, and with very low tides entirely un¬ 
covered. This danger is well marked by a wreck, the steam¬ 
drum of which always shows above water, and by three 
buoys; that on the eastern end is a bell-buoy moored in 4 
fathoms, under the following bearings: Cerro light N. 63^ 


I 





































































































































































































CALETA POINT—SAN JOSE POINT. 


29 


SI' W., Brava point S. 85° 2W W., Fiores light S. 89^* E. 
The buoy on the western edge, moored in 23 feet, lies 5.2 
cables N. 75^ 30' W. from the bell-buoy; and that on the 
northeastern edge, moored in 24 feet, lies 5 cables N. 57° E. 
from the bell-buoy. A rocky patch lies half a mile W. | 
S. from the western extremity of the shoal. The position 
of the wreck is miles E. of the extremity of Brava point. 

The coast between Caleta or Sarandi point, the southwest¬ 
ern extremity of the peninsula of Montevideo, and Brava point, 
forms a bight, with an opening of 3 miles and depth of 1 
mile, the shores of which are rocky and broken into several 
coves. In the middle of the bight there is a small sandy cove 
named Caleta Ohica, or Porcillos. The western point of this, 
named Perez, and another point, named Gabriel, are the 
only ones fronted with reefs, and these do not extend be¬ 
yond 1 cable from the shore; Porcillos cove is defended by 
a battery, named Santa Barbara, situated on a hillock near 
the beach. 

The soundings along this shore are regular; 14 to 15 feet 
depth is found close to the rocks, and IG to 17 feet within 2 
cables. The bottom is muddy, except in one spot, where 
there is a rock with 3 to 4 feet less water over it than in the 
vicinit}", and with only 13 feet at mean low-water. This 
danger is marked on the latest charts of the bay of Monte¬ 
video, but appears to have been ignored by the pilots, sev¬ 
eral of whom have been seen to steer directly for it with 
vessels of heavy draught. It lies under the following bear¬ 
ings : S. of the harbor light on the end of the breakwater, 
SW. from the dome of the cathedral, which is lighted up at 
night, and SE. J E. from the Oerro light. The space over 
which there is only 13 feet depth is said to have an extent 
of 10 yards, and the whole space in which the bottom is 
rocky does not exceed 50 yards. The depth all round it is 
17 to 18 feet at mean low-water. 

MONTEVIDEO BAY AND CITY. 

San Jose point, 2 cables N. of Sarandi, is the eastern 
limit of Montevideo bay. Between these points the bottom 
is foul, and the depth very irregular within IJ cables from 
the shore; outside of this limit there is 15 to 16 feet, over a 
mud bottom ; inside of it there are several rocky patches. 


Caleta point. 


Soundings. 


San Jos^ point. 


30 


MONTEVIDEO BAY. 


Breakwater. 


Lights. 


Yariation. 
Lobes point. 


with 8 to 10 feet over them, surrounded by a muddy bot¬ 
tom. Two of these are detached from the main reef border¬ 
ing the shore. The southern, named Hydra, covers a space 
about 50 yards in diameter, the center bearing SSW. J W., 
distant 2 cables from the harbor-light on the breakwater. 
It is separated from the main reef by a space 30 yards in 
width and about 15 feet iu depth. The other rock, named 
Griffon, lies 1 cable K. of the Hydra, and IJ cables SW. J W. 
from the same light; it is separated from the main reef by 
a channel 15 feet in depth, 40 yards iu width, and from 
the Hydra by a space half a cable in width and 14 feet in 
depth. Both of these rocks are marked by spar-buoys, which 
are intended to lie just outside of them, but are rarely iu 
position. 

San Jose fort stands three-quarters of a cable from the 
shore, and is a consi^icuous mark during the day. A break¬ 
water extends about 250 yards to the NW. from the fort, and 
is in course of extension 300 yards farther in the same di¬ 
rection. The submerged parts form a reef, the extremity of 
which is marked by a spar-buoy. 

On the end of the finished part of the breakwater there is 
an ordinary gas-lamp, from which there is exhibited, at a 
height of 14 feet above the mean level of the water, a fixed 
red light, visible 3 to 5 miles, but difficult to distinguish from 
the lights in its vicinity. The extension of the breakwater 
trends N. 39^ W. from this light. 

The eastern tower of the cathedral shows a fixed bright 
light, at an elevation of 147 feet above mean sea-level. This 
light is the dial-plate of the clock, illuminated by gas, and 
should be seen a distance of 10 miles in clear weather. 

Variation in 1874 9° 00' E. 

Lobos point, the western limit of Montevideo bay, lies 2.1 
miles W. J N. from Sarandi point; it is a rocky projection 
extending 3J cables to the southward. A reef of rocks fronts 
the point, and is connected with it by a narrow strip of sand, 
Avith 6 feet of water over the shoalest part. Some of the 
rocks are awash at low water; one cluster named Piedras 
Brancas, is always visible. The extremity of the reef is 
marked by a bell-buoy, moored in 20 feet depth, half a mile 
S. lo W. from the Cerro light, and S. 79o W. of the cathedral 
light. 

It is proposed to make this reef the base of a breakwater, 


MONTEVIDEO BAY. 


31 


and to build a slip on the northern side, where there is a 
deep pocket protected the southern part of the reef. In 
connection with this it is intended to construct a railroad 
around the shores of the bay. The recent disasters to ship¬ 
ping, together with the increasing number of steamers vis¬ 
iting the port, have caused the inhabitants to turn their 
serious attention to a subject in which they are so deeply 
interested ; and this will probably result in the construction 
of a harbor of some kind. 

The Cerro, or mount, from which the city derives its name, Cerro light- 
is the distinguishing mark of the port. It rises on the west- 34° ss' ’ is" s.; 
ern side of the bay to a height of 463 feet, at less than a 
quarter of a mile from the beach. On the summit there is 
a fort, which is crowned with a tower, from which there is 
exhibited, at an elevation of 486 feet above mean sea-level, 
a fixed and bright light, visible from 20 to 25 miles, 

dex)endent on the condition of the atmosphere. The flash 
is seen 'seconds j it is preceded and followed by a 

short eclipse; and the interval between these is three min¬ 
utes. The flash only is visible beyond a distance of 5 or 6 
miles, and this has been seen as flir as 30 miles. The Cerro 
is the most conspicuous mark on the northern coast of the 
estuary; the eastern slope is being rapidly covered with 
houses, and in the event of the construction of a port on 
this side of the bay, the entire commercial business will 
doubtless be transacted on this side. 

Montevideo bay is an irregular space 1J miles in diameter Montevideo^ 
from SE. to NW., and 2J miles from SW. to NE.; it is open 
to the southward, but there is shelter in it for vessels of a 
moderate size from all winds from W. round by il. and E. 
to SE. The eastern shore is composed chiefly of sand, for¬ 
merly a shelving beach, but now almost entirely built up in 
wharves and piers. The western shore, along the foot of the 
Cerro, is rocky, and here also there are a number of wharves 
of recent construction. The depth of the bay northward df 
the line of bearing between the points of entrance decreases 
regularly from 16 to 12 feet in the first half mile; thence to 
the northward the decrease is more gradual, and the aver¬ 
age depth at 2 cables from the natural shore in the head of 
the bay is about 6 feet. The bottom is a thick layer of mud 
over a surface of rock which in some places rises to and 
above the level of the water. 


32 


MONTEVIDEO BAY. 


Ratones island. 


Rocks. 


Sarin a reef. 


Triton bank. 


Familia rocks. 


Anchorages. 


lu one place these rocks rise and form an island, named 
Ratones, situated miles RW. of San Jose fort, and E. of 
the Cerro light-house. This island is low, fringed with reefs, 
some parts of which are detached and occasionally uncovered. 
There is an old fort and barracks on the island used chiefly 
as a place of confinement for political prisoners. On the 
western side a jetty has been constructed which affords pro¬ 
tection to the landing-place. Ratones is an excellent place 
for establishing, by observation, the rate of chronometers. 
The iiosition will be found in the table. 

Within 2 cables.of the shores of the bay, northward of 
the city and round to Lobos point, there are several clusters 
of rocks all beyond the navigable limits. Those in the nav¬ 
igable part of the bay are: Sarina, situated 4J cables SSE. 
of Ratones island, is 1 cable long NW. and SE., and half a 
cable in breadth, with a general depth of 3 feet, except near 
the southern end, where there is a rock awash at low water. 
Two spar-buoys mark the position of this reef. Triton, sit¬ 
uated 4 cables SE. of Ratones, is very small, with 4 to 6 feet 
water over a rocky bottom, and is not marked by buoys. 
There is a rock, sand-bank, or wreck, on which a vessel 
grounded in 1805, situated IJ cables NE. J N. from the 
shoalest part of Sarina. On the eastern side of the bay, 
three-quarters of a mile NNE. of the mole light, and half a 
mile from the shore, there is a group of rocks always cov¬ 
ered, but marked by 2 spar-buoys; these are known as the 
Eamilia rocks. There are two other rocky patches, one 3J 
cables eastward of Ratones, the other the same distance 
northward of it, which have about 7 feet over them, but are 
out of the way and have no marks. 

The usual anchorage-ground for vessels drawing 20 feet 
is with the Cerro light bearing RW. by W., and the cathe¬ 
dral tower NE. by N., where there is never less than 20 feet 
depth, and the bottom being very soft mud, there is no dan¬ 
ger of injury from swinging over the anchors. Deeply 
laden merchant-ships usually run in until they stick fast in 
the mud, paiticularly if the water is low. Vessels of light 
draught should anchor as far inside of the bay as circum¬ 
stances will permit, in order to be sheltered from easterly 
and westerly gales. The U. S. S. Portsmouth, drawing 17J 
feet, was moored, on several occasions during 1870 and ^71, 
within two cables of the end of the finished breakwater 



A 












































































































































































ANCHORAaE. 


33 


where the charts show a depth of 15 to IG feet. During 90 
days of her stay in this anchorage, at different times, sound¬ 
ings were taken alongside every hour, and the least dei)th 
found was 18 feet, the greatest 24 feet. At one time 17 
feet depth was found where the charts show only 15 feet j and 
it was asserted by the pilots and port officers that they had 
never seen the river any lower than it was on this day. It 
would appear from this that the depth of the port, so called, 
has either increased since the last survey, or, what is more 
likely, the soundings given on the chart have been reduced 
to extreme instead of mean low water. 

The anchorage for vessels of war is outside of the line of 
bearing between Ratones island and the breakwater light. 
It would be better for them to anchor in the roadsin order to be 
out of the way of the merchant-vessels, to avoid the risk of 
being fouled by other ships dragging during the southerly 
gales, and to be beyond the reach of the disagreeable and 
unhealthy odors from the city. 

All vessels lying in the bay should be moored with an 
open hawse to SSW. or S., 45 fathoms of chain on each 
anchor, the best bower to the westward, there being less 
room to veer chain with a gale from this quarter. Vessels 
in the roads usually lie to a single anchor with a long scope 
of chain so that they may ride to the bight of the chain, 
ordinarily, and thus avoid fouling the anchor. Vessels of 
war should examine their anchors frequently during the 
stormy months, especially w'hen the change of current has 
been frequent. 

The holding-ground is much better in the roads and in the 
western i)art of the bay than it is in the port, where the bot¬ 
tom is very soft. The anchorage near Sarandi point is not 
considered safe on account of the ground-swell in this local¬ 
ity, and in case of a pampero the vessel would be on a lee- 
shore. Store-ships and vessels remaining in one anchorage 
for a long time should have their bowers backed with stream 
anchors or heavy hedges. 

Southerly gales raise the waters of the bay 3 feet and 
more usually before the sea rises; there is, therefore, no 
danger of injury to the bottom if a vessel is anchored in a 
depth equal to her draught. A strong current sets around 
San Jose point a few hours after the commencement of a 
SE. gale 5 this causes vessels in the vicinity to swing across 
3 R P 


34 


LANDING-PLACE—TIDES AND CURRENTS. 


and lie in the trough of the sea, which, although very un¬ 
comfortable, is much easier on the chains. During SW. 
gales the strain on the chain is unsteady, and many vessels 
have parted from this cause. An anchorage off San Jose 
l)oint should, therefore, be avoided. 

Landing places. The laiidiug-place for boats is in front of the office of the 
captain of the port, immediately to the northward of the 
breakwater; it is well sheltered from a southerly sea, but 
exposed to the irregular broken swell which is driven in by 
winds from WS W. to N W. Boat-service in this port is very 
hard on the boats and their crews, especially when the ves¬ 
sel is anchored in the roads. The loss of life from the cap¬ 
sizing of boats is alarmingly great, and too much caution 
cannot be used to avoid it. Kegularly equipped life-boats 
should be used to the exclusion of all others: Whenever a 
boat is caught on shore by a gale all the gear should be 
removed and stored, and the boat hauled up on the landing 
just inside of the breakwater. The number of “beach¬ 
combers ” at Montevideo is proportionately greater than in 
any other port in South America. 

Lighters. Merchant-vcsscls are loaded and discharged by lighters, 
of which the number is very great. The city is well sup¬ 
plied with wharves and steam-cranes. 

Tugs.' There are several tugs employed in the bay ; one of these 

may always be had; and it is recommended to take one 
whenever it is necessary to shift the anchorage. The great 
evil of Montevideo is an overcrowded state of the port, col¬ 
lisions being of very frequent occurrence. Many of these 
would be avoided if tugs were more generally employed, 
the harbor being too shallow and contracted to admit of 
prompt handling under sail. 

Tides and cur- The rise and fall of the waters of the bav and the cur- 

ents. 

rents in the vicinity are mainly dependent on the force and 
direction of the wind which is prevailing in the estuary at 
the time. The phases of the moon have no apparent influ¬ 
ence on these changes; and, as a rule, it is impossible to fore¬ 
tell them with any degree of accuracy. During a stay of 
several months, at different seasons of the year, at anchor 
in different parts of the bay and roads, the currents and 
general movement of the waters were closely observed, with 
theview of determining the tidal hours, &c. It was found that 
the greatest difference in the depth of water alongside, from 



SUPPLIES—DRY DOCK. 


35 


hourly observations during 90 days, was 7 feet, and this 
only oil one or two occasions. Southerly winds cause a 
rise which sometimes precedes them several hours ; north¬ 
erly winds produce a fall, which does not commence until 
the breeze sets in. The greatest rise was caused by a gale from 
SSE. to SE.; the greatest fall by a gale from WS W. to WN W. 
As an evidence of the uncertainty of the currents and the rise 
andfallof the tide, it was found that the waters of the bay were 
frequently very low during a moderate prevailing wind from 
SE. 

The water is sometimes higher along the eastern shore 
than it is on the western, and vice versa. There is a notice¬ 
able difference in the rise and fall along the northern shore of 
the estuary eastward of Montevideo to that in the bay. An 
inshore current is often seen setting in an opposite direction 
to that in the estuary along the shores of Montevideo bay 
and the vicinity. Great care is necessary in standing out of 
the bay after a pampero has been blowing, as a strong current 
setting to NW. is often experienced directl}^ after clearing 
Sarandi point. 

All articles necessary for the equipment and repairs of ves¬ 
sels may be obtained in Montevideo, heavy machinery and 
large spars excepted. Coal for steamers averages in price 
812 a ton of 2,240 pounds. Galley coal is usually charged 
for at the rate of 815 to 820 a ton. Wood is very scarce 
and expensive, the price ranging from 825 to 830 a cord. 
Water is brought alongside in lighters built especially for the 
purpose; the price ranges from three-quarters of a cent to IJ 
cents a gallon. Fresh beef and mutton are very cheap. 
Vegetables and poultry are moderately dear. Fruit and game 
in the season are plentiful and cheap. The markets abound 
in good things, which may be bought at reasonable rates. 

The dry-dock at the foot ofFloridastreet,near the gas-works, 
which was originally designed for a basin to discharge colliers, 
has recently been opened for the accommodation of ships, and 
several vessels have receiv^ed important repairs while in it. 
The dimensions of the basin admit vessels 275 feet in length 
and 45 feet breadth of beam ; the depth over the sill varies 
from 14 feet upward, according to the state of the tide. 
The excavation is mostly out of the solid rock, and it is to 
be continued and the capacity of the dock increased. Mush¬ 
room anchors are planted off* theentrance to facilitate hauling 


Supplies. 


Dry dock. 


36 


URUGUAY. 


Defenses. 


Army. 


Ifavy.' 


Area. 

Population. 

Imiu inflation. 


in and out of the dock. The approaches are good, and any 
vessel drawing 15 feet, or less, may ride out a gale at anchor 
within 1 cable of the gate. The prices charged for the use 
of this dock are by no means exorbitant considering the 
l)rices of labor in Montevideo. 

The forts in the vicinity of the city are old and dilapidated j 
they contain few gnus of any description, and none of the 
more recent patterns, and are entirely incapable of success¬ 
fully defending the port against a fleet of wooden vessels. 
A line of fortifications extends across the neck of the penin¬ 
sula j these are of recent construction, and are intended to 
defend the city against the revolutionary i^arties which are 
always to be found in the country. The army is in a very 
disorganized condition, owing to these very frequent revolu¬ 
tions, and is composed chiefly of officers. Adventurers of 
all nations, deserters from vessels of war and merchant- 
vessels, and conscripted natives make up the infantry, but 
the cavalry is composed chiefly of the native herdsmen, who 
spend their lives on horseback, and makeexcelleut marauders, 
although indifferent soldiers. The navj^ consists of two 
steam gun-boats, which were formerly merchantmen, and 
several tugs and steam-cutters. The number of officers is 
said to equal, if not exceed, the number of men, but they 
appear to be employed as customs officers in addition to their 
naval duties. There are some of them who are well informed 
and capable men. The nominal strength of the army is said 
to be 4,000 5 the actual strength depends entirely on the 
condition of the national treasury. In addition to this there 
in an organized national guard having a nominal strength 
of 25,000, but this is not in good discipline nor well armed. 

URUGUAY. 

Republica de la Banda Oriental del Uruguay, or the Banda 
Oriental, is an independent State of South America, situated 
between latitude 30° S. and 35° S., and longitude 53^ W. and 
580 30 / \y, xhe area of the republic is estimated at 84,170 
square miles by some authorities, and at 69,832 square miles by 
others. The population in 1873 was estimated at half a million • 
in 1829 it was 74,000 j in 1836,128,371; and in 1870, 387,421^ 
according to the official census. Fifty-two per cent, of the 
inhabitants are foreigners. There is an increasing flow of 
•immigration, numbering about 30,000 in 1873 j but it is esti- 





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GOVERNMENT—SURFACE—CLIMATE. 


37 


mated that at least oiie-half of these emigrate to the 
Argentine republic, Paraguay, and Brazil. The department 
of Montevideo contains about one-half of the entire popula¬ 
tion of the country. The mortality in this department, in 
1870, was 3,050; in 1871,4,380; in 1872, 3,642; sixty-seven 
per cent, being Uruguayans, the remaining thirty-three per 
cent, foreigners. 

The government is based upon the constitution proclaimed 
in July, 1831, by the terms of which the executive power is 
vested in a president, elected for a term of four years, and 
a vice-president, whose term of office is the same, and who 
is also the presiding officer of the senate. The legislative 
power resides in a congress composed of a senate and house 
of representatives, whose sessions are annual, and extend 
from February 15 to June 30 ; the legislative as well as the 
general control of the administration being confided during 
the remainder of the year to a committee of two senators 
and five representatives. The country is divided into 13 
departments: Montevideo, Guadalupe, San Jose, Florida, 
Colonia del Sacramento, Soriano, Paisandu, Salto, Tacuar- 
embo, Cerro Largo, Maldonado, Minas, and Durazno, the 
chief towns being Montevideo, the capital, Colonia del Sac¬ 
ramento, and Maldonado. 

The most important rivers are the Eio Negro, with its 
numerous tributaries, Arapey, Daiman, Yaguaron, and 
Sebollati. In the eastern part of the country there are two 
lakes, the largest of which lies partly in Brazil. In the 
neighborhood of these lakes a low sandy tract extends in¬ 
land about 50 miles; but the greater part of the surface 
consists of an elevated table-land penetrated by many fer¬ 
tile valleys along the southern coast. The surface of the 
table-lands consists of extensive jdains traversed by occa¬ 
sional ranges of low hills, the whole being almost destitute 
of trees. 

Potter’s earth and umber are found, copper-ore is pro¬ 
duced near cape Santa Maria, and mines of lead, gold, and 
silver are said to have been formerly worked. The climate 
is remarkably mild and healthy, but during the winter 
months a good deal of rain falls in the lower part of the 
country. Severe frosts occasionally occur on the table-land, 
but very little snow falls, and cattle are able to find sub¬ 
sistence at all seasons. A great deal of land is rich and fertile, 


Mortality. 


Government. 


Departments 


Towns. 

Rivers. 

Lakes. 

Surface. 


N a t u ral pro¬ 
ductions. 

Climate. 


38 


EXPORTS—IMPORTS—RAILWAYS. 


Agriculture. 


Stock. 


Animals. 

Birds. 


Commerce. 


Exports. 


Imports. 


Bailways. 


but agriculture is much neglected. Wheat, maize, barley, 
rice, peas, beans, flax, hemp, and cotton, are all raised; and 
the vine, peach, sugar cane, and a great variety of other 
fruit thrive remarkably well. Timber is also found on the 
banks of the principal rivers. The pastures are excellent, 
and the wealth of the inhabitants consists in their flocks 
and herds. Great numbers of horses and horned cattle run 
wild on the plains, and large flocks of sheep are kept, the 
wool of which is of a superior quality. Among the wild 
animals are included the tapir, deer, ounce, monkey, paca, 
rabbit, and fox. There are many varieties of birds; water- 
fowl frequent the lakes, and the country abounds in par¬ 
tridges and other game. 

Uruguay carries on an extensive commerce with foreign 
countries, which is chiefly in the hands of foreigners. The 
rearing of cattle is almost the sole industry of the natives. 
The exports consist chiefly of salted hides, tallow, bones, 
wool, sheep-skins, and a considerable quantity of Liebig’s 
extract of meat and jerked-beef, the total value of which 
in 1872 was $15,490,000. The chief articles of irnportation 
are machinery and almost all kinds of manufactured 
articles and liquors. Smuggling is extensively practiced, 
and it is difficult, therefore, to give tbe value of the imports. 
In 1872 the official returns gave $18,800,000, but at least 
one-third more should be added to arrive at a fair v^alu- 
ation of the Avhole amount of imports. The total customs 
receipts in 1870 were $4,538,854; in 1871, $5,312,318; and 
in 1872, $7,207,907. Nearly one-half the exports are shipped 
to Great Britain; France comes next; the United States 
next; and Brazil, Spain, and Italy take the balance. 

The central Uruguayan railway is in operation for a dis¬ 
tance of fifty miles, and is being rapidly pushed to the town 
of Durazuo, a central spot in a productive district, and from 
whence the line will doubtless be pushed through the north¬ 
ern departments to the Brazilian frontiers. Another intended 
line of rail is beinglaid to connect Montevideo with the port of 
Salto on the Uruguay, and this port with Brazil, which 
promises to be a remunerative investment, and will there¬ 
fore be pushed to completion. A third line is about to be 
commenced, and takes an eastern course from Montevideo 
toward the Brazilian frontier. These trunk lines together with 


TELEaRAPHS—HISTORY. 


39 


the branches which will necessarily follow, must result in a 
very important improvement in the character of the natives. 

A submarine telegraph line has recently been laichfrom Teie^^raph?. 
Montevideo to Buenos Ayres, another to Ilio Grande do Sul, 
and two other lines overland to the Brazilian frontier. 

Montevideo is now in telegraphic communication with 
Europe and the United States. 

Several companies have been formed for the creation of Art ficki har- 
artificial harbors in Montevideo bay and at other contiguous 
places. It is proposed by one company to build a dock, to 
have an area of 500 acres, in a bay not far from Montevideo, 
with which it would be connected by rail. Another com¬ 
pany proposes to establish a graving-dock and submarine 
railway near to Piedras point; and numerous other schemes 
have been jiroposed by companies without capital, but 
there appear to have been no propositions from the cap¬ 
italists. 

Tliere is, however, one scheme which is likely to be car¬ 
ried into effect—the privilege having been granted—which 
is, to provide fixed anchorages, to which all vessels entering 
the baj^ will have to moor, a corresponding tonnage due 
being imposed. 

From an official publication in January, 1873, the public Public de’)t. 
debt would appear to have been at that time $41,481,235. 

Since the creation of the debt in 1859, the government 
has paid $10,305,406 upon the capital, and $12,153,955 of 
interest up to January, 1873. The estimated budget for 1873 
was, revenue, $6,796,000; expenditure, $6,623,758. 

The territory included in the republic of Uruguay was History, 
originally settled by a colony from Buenos Ayres, but the 
possession of it afterward caused a war between Spain and 
Portugal, during which it was in turn several times occu¬ 
pied by both. The contest was finally decided in favor of 
Spain, and the country attached to the vice-royalty of 
Buenos Ayres, and known as the district of Banda Oriental. 

When the war of independence began, the Banda Ori¬ 
ental sided with Buenos Ayres, but shortly afterward sepa¬ 
rated from that republic. The Brazilians, under the pre¬ 
tense of restoring tranquillity to the country, but really 
fearing that their revolutionary doctrines might spread 
into their own territory, took possession of it in 1821. 

Buenos Ayres protested against this proceeding, but war 


40 


HISTORY. 


did not actually break out until 1826. A treaty of peace 
was concluded in 1828, through the intervention of Great 
Britain, by which the northern part of the country, known 
as the Seven Missions, was ceded to Brazil, and the south¬ 
ern portion was declared an independent state, under the 
title Eepublica Oriental del Uruguay. 

Internal dissensions soon broke out, and Eosas, the dic¬ 
tator of Buenos Ayres, was asked for assistance by one of 
the unsuccessful candidates for the presidency of Uruguay. 
A war ensued, and continued a long time with little advan¬ 
tage to either side, Brazil requesting the governments of 
England and France to interfere. These three powers sent 
ships of war and blockaded Montevideo in 1845. England 
maintained the blockade until 1848, France until 1849, when 
treaties were signed with Eosas. The war continued until 
1851, when Oribe was defeated and Eosas deposed. Peace 
was now secured, and treaties entered into with foreign 
states; one concluded with Brazil and the Argentine Ee- 
imblic in January, 1859, secured the independence of the 
state. 

In 1860, General Flores headed an insurrection against 
the government, and a civil war ensued, which lasted until 
1864, when Brazil and Paraguay took part in it. The for¬ 
mer sided with Flores ; this brought a protest from Lopez, 
the dictator of Paraguay, who justly suspected the Brazil¬ 
ians of an attempt to annex the territory of Uruguay to 
Bruzil. Lopez declared war against Brazil, and entered 
Brazilian territory with an army, which was but little opposed 
owing to the difficulty of collecting an army so far away 
from the capital. In the mean time a Brazilian army had 
captured Paisandu and sacked it. The combined forces of 
Flores and the Brazilians then marched against Monetvideo. 
In February, 1865, a treaty of peace was signed, by which 
Flores was declared provisional president. 

This led to the Paraguayan war, for on May 4,1865, Flores 
entered into a treaty of alliance with the Argentine repub¬ 
lic and Brazil against Paraguay, the allies “ solemnly bind¬ 
ing themselves not to lay down arms until the existing gov¬ 
ernment of Paraguay should be overthrown.” The Uru¬ 
guayans practically withdrew from active participation in 
this war during the ensuing year, but their territory was 




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MONTEVIDEO. 


41 


used as a base of supplies for the allied armies until the end 
of the war in 1870. 

In February, 1868, a revolution broke out against the ad¬ 
ministration of Flores, It was headed by his sons, but 
w ith the assistance of the foreign vessels of war in the port 
it w^as temporarily supi^ressed, Flores having been made to 
resign. New disturbances broke out toward the end of the 
same month, during which Flores was assassinated. These 
disturbances were soon suppressed, and in March Battle 
was elected president. 

In March, 1870, a formidable insurrection broke out in 
the interior of the country. This continued until April, 
1872, when it was terminated by a treaty of peace. Thus 
it will be seen that the rival factions in the country are for¬ 
ever contending for office, not with arguments but with 
bullets. Their wars are a succession of skirmishes between 
small bodies of troops, and for barbarity are not excelled 
by the most uncivilized aborigines of the continent. 

The city of Montevideo was founded in 17L7 ; in 1800 it 
contained about 15,000 inhabitants; in 1860, about 37,000 ; 
in 1870, about 80,000, and at the present date the number 
of inhabitants are variously estimated from 80,000 to 
130,000. It is probable that, at the lowest calculation, there 
are 110,000 inhabitants, forty per cent, of which are foreign¬ 
ers. Civil wars have hindered the growth of this city to 
an equality with Eio de Janeiro j for its position is such as 
to give it every advantage over Buenos Ayres as a receiv¬ 
ing and distributing center. 

Public improvements have recently been made to a very 
great extent; so that at the present time the city is supplied 
with water, gas, and a system of sewers. The streets are regu¬ 
larly laid out and very well paved. Many of the buildings 
are handsome; buttherearenone worthy of especial mention. 
Hotel accommodations are superior to any part of Brazil, and 
equaled in South America oidy by Buenos Ayres. There 
are several places of public amusement, including a tine 
opera-house, several theaters, and a bull ring. An En¬ 
glish Protestant Episcopal chapel, a Methodist mission 
chapel, and several Catholic churches make up the religious 
editices. The stores are well supplied with everything neces¬ 
sary to the health and comfort of the most fastidious; and the 


Montevideo. 


42 


SHIPPING—STEAMERS. 


Sliippiug. 


Steamers. 


prices of dry goods, &c., compare favorably with the prices 
iu ^^ew York. 

Tlie neighboring country is being rapidly built up with 
pretty villas, and in some of the gardens great taste is dis¬ 
played in the arrangement of plants, &c. There is a small 
public library, several hospitals, schools, and one college 
worthy of the name. The educated and refined classes are 
very hospitable; and the females are proverbially pretty 
and entertaining while young. Paraguayan tea is indulged 
in to excess by all classes, ages, and sexes. 

The following exhibit of the shipping at the port of Mon¬ 
tevideo is for 1872, and includes all but the small coasting- 
vessels and river-steamers: 


Nation, 

Ships entered. 

Ships cleared. 

Direct. 

Indirect. 

Total. 

Ton¬ 

nage. 

Direct. 

Indirect. 

Total. 

Ton¬ 

nage. 

Argentine. 

9^ 

161 

258 

14, 428 

126 

182 

308 

14, 248 

Brazilian. 

87 

10 

97 

44,816 

96 

27 

123 

51,617 

English. 

2C4 

158 

422 

387, 710 

121 

284 

405 

380, 975 

French . 

G9 

138 

207 

147, 027 

36 

169 

• 205 

148, 261 

G erman. 

112 


112 

43, 371 

109 


109 

47, 744 

Italian. 

34 

235 

269 

126, 792 

26 

225 

251 

119,410 

Norwegian. 

27 


27 

10, 586 

26 


26 

10, 220 

Portuguese .... 

4 

11 

15 

3, 092 

4 

11 

15 

3, 092 

Spanish. 

115 

142 

257 

61,204 

92 

171 

263 

59, 779 

Swedish. 

23 


23 

7, 854 

28 


28 

10, 857 

United States.. 

31 

12 

43 

22. 595 

20 

25 

45 

16, 098 

Total. 

863 

867 

1,730 

867, 475 

684 

1,094 

1,778 

832, 301 


This shows an increase in the tonnage over the preceding 
year of 178,158 tons. 

In 1860 one merchant-steamer per month was the only 
steam communication between Montevideo and Europe; iu 
1872 there were six English mail-steamers which arrived at 
and sailed from Montevideo for Europe in each month ; 
there were also four French, one Italian, and one Si)anish 
lines of steamers arriving and departing monthly, which 
were under contract to carry the mails. In addition to these 
there are a large number of freight-steamers, which take 
what are called ship-letter mails, thus increasing the mail 
communication with Brazil and Europe to an average of 
one per day at least. The steam communication with Bue- 

































CUSTOMS DUTIES. 


43 


nos Ayres, Eosario, Asuncion, and tbe Brazilian riverine 
ports is very frequent and regular, and is improving rap¬ 
idly. The freights average about seventy-five per cent, to 
and from Europe above the cost of carriage in sailing- 
vessels. During the past four years English freight-steam¬ 
ers have sailed about twice a month from Montevideo for 
New York, via Eio de Janeiro and Bahia. 

The duties on imports are: 1. Machinery, agricultural Duties on im- 
implements, instruments used in the arts and sciences/'''^®' 
books, prints, maps, hides, hair, horns, tallow, bullion, and 
coin, are free. 2. Silk, laces, blonde, gold and silver em¬ 
broidery, watches, jewelry, saltpeter, plaster of Paris, coal, 
timber, cotton fringe, and wooden hoops, five per cent. 

3. Powder, pitch, tar, rosin, and naval stores, thirteen per 
cent. 4. All raw material and manufactured articles not 
included in the preceding enumeration, fifteen per cent. 

5. Sugar, tea, cocoa, spices, drugs, and provisions in gen¬ 
eral, tiventy Gent. 6. Furniture, pictures, looking-glasses, 
musical instruments, carriages, carts, &c, harness, saddles, 
horses’ furniture, ready-made clothes, boots and shoes, 
liqueurs, spirituous liquors, wine, yiuegar, cider, ale and 
porter, tobacco, and soap, twenty-five percent.; salt, 2 reals 
per fanega. 7. Flour pays a variable duty, regulated 
according to the price of wheat, froju 8 dollars to 3 dollars 
per barrel. Goods transshipped or shipped out of bond pay 
two per cent. Foreign goods shipped in vessels less than 
150 tons burden, for ports on the Uruguay and l^araguay, 
pay one per cent. All dutiable imported goods pay one per 
cent, additional to the consulado; one-half ]}gt cent, to the 
hospital j and one per cent, additional on all goods paying 
five per cent, j five per cent on all goods paying twenty-five 
per cent, j ten per cent additional on fiour; and three per 
cent, on wheat. 

Ox and cowhides pay an export duty of “2 reals 25po?ts!^®® 
centesimos for reconnidor* valuations of one dollar,” and 
one per cent, consul ado. Horse-hides, one real for reconnidor 
valuations of five reals; and per cent, consulado. All 
other produce of the country pays four per cent, on the 
market value, and one per cent, consulado. Jerked and 

* The meaning of this word is not exactly understood; but it is doubt¬ 
less recognized or admitted value. 



44 


PORT CHARGES—MONEYS—WEIGTS AND MEASURES. 


salted beef, pork, &c., also all foreign goods that have paid 
the import due,/ree. Gold and silver, coined or in bullion, 
one per cent. 

Port charges. National vessels from ports outside of the estuary pay 
2 reals per ton, foreign vessels 3 reals, for port-dues ) and 
both pay oue dollar per day additional while loading and 
discharging, ^pratique and a pilot national vessels pay 
4 dollars, foreign 8 dollars; without a pilot, national 2 dol¬ 
lars, foreign 4 dollars. For the use of a boat 2 dollars. 
National and foreign vessels that do not discharge nor load, 
and that do not remain more than six days, are not charged 
tonnage-dues. Those remaining over six days without 
loading or discharging must pay one third the above 
tonnage-dues. National vessels and vessels belonging to 
the Argentine republic employed in the river-trade pay a 
license for each voyoge, which is graduated according to 
the tonnage, from 4 reals for vessels measuring from 3 to 7 
tons, to 54 reals for those of 101 tons and over. 

Hospital (lues National and foreign vessels bound to foreign ports pay 

2 dollars for the vessel, 4 reals for the captain, 2 reals for 
each seaman, and 1 dollar for each passenger, hospital- 
dues. 

Pilotage The pilotage from Montevideo to Buenos Ayres, to be 

paid in Montevideo, is as follows; Not exceeding 9 feet 
draught, burgos measure, 50 dollars j 9 to 10 feet, 60 dol¬ 
lars; 10 to 11 feet, 70 dollars; 11 to 12 feet, 80 dollars; 12 
to 13 feet, 100 dollars; 13 to 14 feet, 120 dollars; 14 to 15 
feet, 140 dollars; 15 to 16 feet, 160 dollars; 16 to 17 feet, 
190 dollars; 17 to 18 feet, 220 dollars. 

Moneys. Moueys: 100 cents make a real; 800 cents or 8 reals 

make a dollar; 960 cents make a hard dollar, or patacon. 

The current money is the Spanish dollar or i^atacon, 
equal to $1.0341 American coin. 

Weights and The weights and measures are the same as those formerly 

leasures. Spain, viz: Libra=7,100.21 grains troy=460.093 

grammes. Pie =0.91407 foot = 0.278635 meter. Vara = 
0.914117 yard =0.835905 meter. Fanega=1.57527 bushels= 
55.501 liters. Cautara=4.2618 gallons=66.133 liters. Ouar- 
tillo=0.13322 gallon =0.5043 liter. 

Telegraphs. Montevideo has recently been connected by telegraph 
with the United States through Eio de Janeiro and Europe. 















































































































































































































































































































































ESPINILLO POINT—PANELA ROCK. 


45 


NOETn COAST— Continued. 

The coast between Lobos and Espinillo is formed by the 
southern slope of the cerro, which gradually declines to 
the westward toward the Santa Lucia riv^er. The shore 
forms a series of small bays, separated by rocky points, 
and fronted by a bank of sand, with irregular depths. The 
limit of 3 fathoms is about one mile from the salient points. 
A^eguas point, 2f miles W. of Lobos, is formed b}’ an islet 
connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of sand, which 
uncovers during low tides. The southern side of this islet 
is steep-to, with a depth of 19 feet within 1 cable, and 4 
fathoms at one mile from the shore. A reef makes out to 
NE. from the eastern side; and the bay formed by this reef 
and the next point to the eastward is strewn with rocks. 
From Yeguas to Espinillo point the coast trends to 
NW. J W. for miles ; the two most salient projections in 
this space are Pedregal and Castro points, both of wLich 
are foul and rocky. 

Espinillo point is the eastern limit of the entrance to the 
Santa Lucia river; and the western termination of the ele¬ 
vation which culminates in the cerro of Montevideo. There 
are some remarkable white patches on the rise of the point. 
Its extremity is low, rocky, and fringed with a shoal which 
extends three-quarters of a mile from the SE. extremity of 
the point round to the westward and northward. The 
depth of water on this shoal varies between G and 10 feet; 
the edge is steep-to, with 17 to 20 feet about three-quarters 
of a mile from the shores. In the vicinity of the point 
there are several large, isolated bowlders, some of which 
are covered, and have from 3 to 3J fathoms close to them. 
Vessels should not approach Espinillo point within the dis¬ 
tance of a mile, as the currents are strong and uncertain 
near to it. The British gunboat Dart grazed a shoal of 12 
feet depth, lying about 2^ miles W. J S. of Espinillo point. 

The Panela rock lies S. 80® W. from the Cerro light¬ 
house, and S. 10^ W. from the west extremity of Espinillo 
point. It consists of a cluster of sharp-pointed rockvS, on 
which the depth varies between 8 and 15 feet at mean low 
w'ater, except in one spot, where there is not over 3J feet. 
The whole cluster covers a space about 300 yards in extent, 
surrounded by a depth of 21 to 23 feet, muddy bottom, ex- 


Espiuillo point. 


Shoal 


Panela rock. 


40 


SANTA LUCIA RIVER. 


cept on tbe south side, where the bottom is rocky, without 
any change of depth, for 250 yards from the edge of the 
shoal. 

Ligiit-sbip. A light-ship is moored on the reef, under the following 
bearings: Cathedral tower 87^ E., Cerro light-house N. 
80° E., Espinillo point K 9° E. The light is fixedj bright, 
elevated 18 feet above the sea, and visible in clear weather 
a distance of 5 miles. In 1872 there was a wreck of a pad¬ 
dle-wheel steamer on this reef, and the paddles could be 
distinctl 3 " seen a distance of C miles. A stranger, sighting 
the light-vessel for the first time, would probably mistake 
her for a steamer, unless the wreck has disappeared. 

Directions. The lead gives no warning of the approach to the Panela. 

A vessel in the vicinity of the reef, with the light-vessel not 
in sight, should keep the Cerro light-house bearing to the 
northward of li. by K ^ N., until the westernmost white 
patch on Espiuillo point bears to the eastward of NNE. J 
E. The cathedral of Montevideo, just hidden by Yeguas 
point, bearing E., leads through the channel between the 
Panela reef and Santa Lucia bank, with not less than 4 
fathoms depth. 

Shoals. Vessels of deep draught should avoid the spots southward 

of the Panela, where the depth is only 18 feet, surrounded 
by 21 to 24 feet; one of these lies miles S. J W.; the 
other 5J miles SW^ by S. of the light-ship ; both are ou the 
line of bearing S. 72^ W. from the cathedral. The Cerro 
light house, in line with Yeguas point, bearing N. 70^ E., 
leads through the channel between these shoals and the 
Panela rock, in not less than 4 fathoms depth. 

Santa Lucia Tigi’c poiiit lies 5 miles NW. by N. of Espinillo.point; it 
is very little salient, and not easily distinguished. The 
coast, northeastward of the two points, forms a spacious, 
shallow bay, protected from all winds from KW. round by 
N. and E. to S. The outlet to the Santa Lucia river is in 
the head of this bay, through two branches, one on either 
side of a low, flat island, named Tigre, which is surrounded 
by a sand-beach extending nearly to the meridian of Espi- 
nillo i)oint. The shores of the bay are also fronted by a 
bank of 8 to 10 feet; that on the eastern side is about 1 
mile in width, that on the northern side about 2 miles ; the 
former is flat j the latter shelves gradually to the shore. 



CHANNELS—CLIFFS. 


47 


The channels leading into tiie river are across the flat 
surrounding the island. The northern is the best and deep¬ 
est; it ranges along the northern shore of the bay, and has 
a depth of not less than 0 feet during mean low water; the 
southern is obstructed by a rock in the entrance, and lias 
only 4 feet over the bar. There are no marks or ranges for 
either channel: a stranger should therefore anchor, and 
send a boat to buoy the line of deepest water. The shoalest 
liarts are of small extent, the depth increasing to 10,12,18, 
and 23 feet abreast of the island, and, in the river, to 8 
fathoms; it remains between 5 and 8 fathoms as far as the 
confluence of the San Jose river, where it decreases rapidly, 
and continues to decrease as far as the village of Santa 
Lucia, situated 25 miles from the entrance. Vessels of 6 
feet draught may ascend to Santa Lucia, if they can make 
headway against a current of 3 to 4 knots an hour, which 
is generally met with in the riv^er. The rock in the entrance 
to the southern channel is just awash, and is marked by a 
buoy. The entrance to the river appears to be subject to 
frequent changes; extensive banks form outside, and are 
washed away before they are well known ; large quantities 
of the river-banks are washed away, and obstructions 
formed in the entrance after every freshet. 

The Santa Lucia is the boundary between the depart¬ 
ments of Montevideo and San Jose. Santa Lucia village 
has a population of about 800 persons. The town of San 
Jose, capital of the province of this name, stands in a val¬ 
ley near the right bank of the river, about 25 miles inland; 
the population is estimated at 5,000. 

The northern shore of Santa Lucia bay is a line of cliffs, 
from 60 to 80 feet in height, which terminates 2 miles west¬ 
ward of Tigre point. A low strip of sand separates these 
from another line of cliffs, which are from 70 to 100 feet 
in height and 6 miles in length. A break in the coast at 
this point is the bed of the San Gregorio river. To the 
westward, the cliffs again appear of the same general ele¬ 
vation, extending a distance of 5J miles, where they become 
broken as far as Santa Maria or San Gregorio point, situ¬ 
ated 17J miles W. by N. J N. of Tigre point. 

These cliffs, beginning from the mouth of the Santa Lucia 
river, are named Barrancas of Santa Lucia, Mauricio, and 


Channels.. 


Cliffs. 


48 


SAN GREGORIO AND SANDY POINTS. 


Gregorio; the entire coast between the river and San Gre¬ 
gorio point being known as the Eincon de Alcibas. 

Gregorio Gregorio point is not very salient, but well marked 

by steep cliffs, 100 feet in height, of darker color than those 
which precede them, and by two or three houses on its sum¬ 
mit. The space between the termination of the Barrancas 
de San Gregorio and the point is much lower than either, 
and has two breaks in it. 

Santa Lucia bank fronts the Barrancas of Mauricio and 
Santa Lucia. The southern extremity lies 5 miles WSW. of 
Espinillo point, and oj miles NW. by W. J W. from the 
Panela light-ship. The southern edge is very irregular ; the 
western edge trends irregularly to NVV., toward the mouth of 
the San Gregorio river. The depth on the bank varies be¬ 
tween 12 and 17 feet, except in one small space, where there 
are 0 and 8 feet only; this lies 7 miles W. by N. of Espinillo 
point. The depth of water close to the edges is 3.J to 4 fathoms, 
bottom of mud; this changes graduall^^ to 15 or 17 feet, sandy 
bottom, on the bank. Th e Barrancas de San Gregorio are 
supposed to be fronted by a bank, but nothing is known of its 
extent, depth, or limits. The depth of water 2 miles from the 
land is known to be 20 to 23 feet, except in one place, where 
there is a shoal of 12 feet. This lies 3^ miles from the coast, 
about 7 miles SE. ^ E. of San Gregorio point, and 25 miles W. 
by N. 4 N. from the Cerro light house. The pilots assert that 
this bank has been swept away by the currents. It is prob. 
ably identical with the one on which the Dart struck. 

Jesus Maria, or Jesus Maria point lies 4 miles NW. by W. J W. of Santa 
sancij point j the intervening shore is composed of sand-hills 

about 30 feet in height, fronted by a wide beach. Fish 
abound in the bay, and the beach is well adapted to sein¬ 
ing; an abundance of deer, partridge, and duck are found 
in the neighboring country. 

Bank. Sandy point makes out three-quarters of a mile to SW. 

from Jesus Maria; it is a low, flat, sand-spit, covered dur. 
ing high stages of the estuary. The bank fronting the 
shore in this vicinity makes out 2 miles to SW. from Jesus 
Maria point; it then turns abruptly to ESE., tapering grad¬ 
ually to the extremity, which lies 2 miles SW. of Santa 
Maria. The depth of water on the latter jiart is 10 to 17 
feet; the edges are very steep, 4J to 5 fathoms being found 
close to depths of 10 to 14 feet; the bottom changes abruptly 

































































































































































PAVON POINT TO CUFRE RIVER. 


49 


from soft mud alongside of, to fine sand on the bank. 

The depth of water in the space between the edge of the 
bank fringing the coast and the northern edge of this sx)it 
is between 19 and 23 feet. 

Pavon point lies 11^ miles J W. of Jesns Maria. Pavon point. 
The intervening coast is a line of sand-downs, from 80 to 30 
feet in height, with irregular intervals of low' beach between 
them. One of these dowms is conspicuous on account of the 
sea-face rising abruptly from the low shore. This stretch 
of coast offers few remarkable features, except some groups 
of trees w hich are visible from the ofiSng, one near the out¬ 
let of the Pavon river, the other about midw'ay between this 
and Sandy point. 

The entrance to the San Miguel river, about 2 miles north- San misuoi 
westw ard of Sandy point, is conspicuous at a distance of 6 
to 8 miles. It has the appearance of a large tree, the dark 
brush-wood at the entrance beirf’g stongly contrasted with 
the continuous sand-hills stretching to the northwest from 
Sandy point. Pavon point is low' and wooded. 

A short distance northw ard of Pavon point is the limit of E n s enada <le 
3 fathoms navigation along the northern coast of the estuary. 

The spit of the Ortiz bank here leaves the shore, trending 
to SSE. and forming a cul-de-sac^ named Ensenada de Pavon, 
where there is a rather exposed anchorage in 3J fathoms, 
muddy bottom. There is, however, an inshore channel 
between the northern edge of the Ortiz bank and thecohst, 
suitable for vessels of 14 feet draught and less, although 
the pilots are unwilling to take vessels draw'ing more than 
12 feet through it. 

Kossario point lies 14 miles WNW. of Pavon i)oint. It Rossario point, 
is very little salient, but the shore is steep and the sand- 
downs are higher near to the point than they are on each 
side of it. The coast between Pavon and Kossario points 
forms a bend. About IJ miles N. by W. of the former is Pavon ami pc- 
the outlet of the Pavon and Pereyra rivers; and 6 miles 
westward of this is the mouth of the Cufre. Here the trend cufre rivor. 
of the coast changes from a general NW, to a W. direction, 
and so continues to Oolouio. The sand-hills become more 
elevated, rising to the height of 140 feet; one of them has 
the form of table-land, and marks the mouth of the Cufre 
river, which flow's along its eastern and southern base. A 
few' small rocks lie off the mouth of the Cufre. 

4 R P 


50 


PTPAS ROOKS. 


Rincon del Cu- Tliis part of the coast is known as the Rincon del Cufre. 

fre 

The shores of the bend are low j the first 3 miles westward 
of Pavon point they are wooded; this is followed by a flat 
barren space of 1 mile, at the end of which the downs com¬ 
mence. On the western side of the Cufre there is another 
w^ooded space of 1 mile or more, westward of which the 
downs are bare, and rise gradually toward the mouth of 
the Rossario. All along this bend there is 14 to 16 feet 
within 1 mile of the beach, and, as a rule, the depth de¬ 
creases gradually from thence in-shore. 

Rossario river. The Rossario river empties into the estuary IJ miles 
westward of Rossario point; the eastern side of the entrance 
is a narrow i)oint, terminated by a cluster of rocks; the 
bar is shallow, but inside there is a depth of 8 feet for a 
distance of 12 to 15 miles up the river. 

Sauce point. Saiice point, 5 miles W. of Rossario, is salient, wooded, 
and fronted by a ledge of rocks awash j it is marked by two 
conspicuous houses 1 mile from the shore, and an isolated 
mound, 105 feet in height, situated about miles N. by W. 
of the point. The intervening shore is a low sand-beach, 
backed by a line of low sand-downs of uniform height and 
appearance. 

Artiiieria point. AitUleria poiiit, 5 iiiiles farther west, is fronted by a 
ledge of rocks, which extend half a mile to the southward, 
where the depth is 14 feet. The point is salient, and 50 feet 
in height^ the land rises gradually to the northward and 
“ westward, forming a line of hills about 150 feet in height. 

The coast fronting these hills forms a bay which terminates 
6J miles to the westward, where there is a ledge of rocks 
fronting the shore. This, bay is foul, the soundings show'- 
ing a rocky and uneven bottom from the depth of 15 feet. 
Pipas rocks. The Pipas rocks, situated 8..J miles E. of Colouia light¬ 
house and IJ miles from the shore, are uncovered except 
when the waters of the estuary are unusually high ; they 
have the ap])earance of casks floating on the water, from which 
they derive the name. The cluster occupies a space about half 
a mile in extent. The depth of water between the rocks varies 
from 8 to 12 feetj, on the E,. and W. sides the bank is shelving, 
but steep-toon the N. and S, sides. There is another reef sit¬ 
uated IJ miles NE. of the Pipas, and 1 mile from the shore. 

A dangerous rock lies 7J miles S. 83° E. of the Ooloiiia 
light house, and IJ miles SW. by W.£ of the largest of the 


COLONIA DEL SACRAMENTO. 


51 


Pipas; it is only 7 feet below the surface, steep-to, with 15 
feet round it, and 17 feet in the channel which separates it 
from the Pipas. To pass southward of both keep Colonia 
light house bearing to the northward of W. by K until Angos¬ 
tura point bears N. Colonia light-house bearing W. J N. 
leads between the Pipas and the rock to the southward. 

To pass between the Pipas and the rocks to the northward 
keep the light-house bearing W. J S. It would be prudent 
to pass to the southward of all these rocks. 

The first salient projection westward of the Pipas is An- 
gostura point; it is low,fringed with rocks,and forms the 
eastern limit of a small bay, into the head of which flows 
the Chuelo river. A short distance westward of the river, 
the downs rise to an elevation of 130 feet, and on the sum¬ 
mit of the highest there is a farm-house. Between the base 
of these downs and the shore the land is low and intersected 
with several lagoons, which abound in water-fowl. The 
depth of the channel increases abreast of these to 3 and 4 
fathoms, which is maintained until you reach Colonia. 

The town of Colonia del Sacramento is built on a slightly Coioma delsac- 
elevated point extending 6 cables to the westward. The 
XW. extremity of the point is named San Rita, and the SW. 

San Pedro. The town has a very dilapidated appearance, 
but there is a considerable trade in hides and wool carried 
on in it. The department of which it is the capital is ad¬ 
mirably adapted to the raising of stock, particularly sheep; 
and recently an impetus has been given to this branch of in¬ 
dustry by the purchase of extensive tracts of land by En¬ 
glish and Buenos Ayrean capitalists, with a view to raising 
a better class of sheep than have been raised heretofore. 

The department has an estimated area of 2,000 square miles; 
a population of 11,000, about 3,000 of whom are foreigners; 
and in 1870 the estimated number of animals was 850,000. 

The capital has a population of about 1,200 persons, during 
the brief periods of peace in the country; and is generally 
deserted during the wars. 

The town was founded by the Portuguese in 1G78; the 
Spaniards took possession of it in 1G80, and since this 
date it has changed nationality about fifteen times. Rosas, 
the dictator of Buenos Ayres, took possession of it in 1845, 
but it was wrested from him by the French and English 
fleets, and restored to the Uruguayans. The civil wars in 


COLONIA DEL SACRAMENTO—LIGHT. 




this niibappy country seem to have been felt at Colonia 
more than any other place. Its position is an excellent one 
for the establishment of a great distributing center for the 
valley of the Plata; but so long as the inhabitants of the 
country persist in resorting to arms to settle trifling disputes 
about office there can be no improveiaent. 

The cathedral is the most conspicuous building, and is 

Marino railway, the first object Seen when approaching the town. A marine 
railway has been built on the northern side of the peninsula, 
capable of lifting a dead weight of 500 tons, and of taking 
on a vessel drawing 9 feet, when the estuary is lowest. 
There is great difficulty in placing a vessel on the cradle, 
as the current runs strongly at right angles to the line of 
the ways. The following information was obtained from the 
superintendent in 1871: 

Sailing-vessels over 100 tons, American or English meas¬ 
urements, will be charged $1 per ton for being taken out of 
water. Each nominal horse-power of engine, in steamers, 
will be charged as an additional ton of measurement. Sail¬ 
ing-vessels and steamers under 100 tons will be charged 
the rate for 100 tons. Cargo will be charged $1.50 per ton 
for being lifted, and the regular rate for lying on the dock. 
The charge for lying on the railwa^^ commences from the 
hour the vessel is out of water, and is at the rate of seventy- 
five cents per ton for 24 hours; and any 24 hours entered 
upon will be charged as a full day. Vessels that have 
been wrecked or hogged Avill be charged special rates, to 
be agreed upon by the agents of the dock and the vessel. 
No charges will be made for Sundays and stormy days when 
no work can be done below' the load-lines. All charges are 
in goldP 

AVharf. A woodeii pier on the northern side of the peninsula ex¬ 

tends out to a depth of 12 or 13 feet at ordinary stages of 

Supplies. the estuary. Fresh beef, mutton, chickens, and vegetables 
may be obtained at moderate prices. Water is taken from 
alongside. Sea-stores are scarce and expensive. Coal in 
small quantities may be bought at all times. Wood is rarely 
if ever to be had. The neighboring country abounds in 
game. 

Lighthouse, The light house of Colonia is near the SW. angle of the 

latitude 34° 28' . . i i . , 

10 ^ s. ; longitude plaza; it IS dull brick-color, and not very conspicuous during 
the day. It exhibits at an elevation of 110 feet above the 


























































































































































COLONIA ROADS—ISLANDS AND BANKS. 


53 


meau level of the water, a revolving^ hright light, which 
attains its greatest brilliancy every three minutes, and is 
visible at a distance of 10 to 15 miles, according to the 
state of the horizon. 

Vessels drawing 18 feet and less may find a secure anchor* Coionia roatis, 
age inside of the reefs, but the entrance is difficult, and the 
services of a pilot are necessary. The usual anchorage is 
half a mile WNW. of San Rita point, in 4 to 5 fathoms, 
muddy bottom. Vessels should moor with an open hawse 
to SW., and a short scope on each anchor, so as to ride to 
both anchors after veering chain. This anchorage is shel¬ 
tered from N. round by E. to SE. j but only partially pro¬ 
tected from SW. by the islet San Gabriel and Laja bank. 

Fisher’s bank breaks the sea from the southward. 

Commencing from the S. and W., the first danger com- islands and 
prised in the limits of Coionia roads lies 4| miles W. f S. 
from the light house, and 4 miles SSW. of the westernmost 
of the Hornos islands; the depth on this is from 5 to 15 
feet, over a space about 1 cable in diameter; the bottom is 
rocky on the reef, which is surrounded by 21 and 22 feet of 
water, over a soft mud bottom. To avoid this danger keep 
the light house in line with Farallou island until nearly up 
to the latter. 

Fisher’s bank is an extensive plateau of hard sand, over Fisher’s bank, 
which the chart shows a depth of 14 to 18 feet, except in 
three places, where there is 12 feet and less; the shoalest 
spot is about 2 cables in extent, and lies 1 mile and 4 cables 
SW. by W. J W\ from the light-house and SE. from the 
center of San Gabriel island. The pilots of the Plata 
assert that the sand is rapidly accumulating on this bank, 
and that the depth of water on it is less than is shown on 
the charts. During fresh southerl^^ gales the sea has been 
seen to break on the shoalest parts. 

The Farallon is a rockv islet, 35 to 40 feet in height, Faraiion islet, 
surrounded by a reef, the whole covering a space half a‘ 
mile long WXW. and ESE., by three cables wide, in the 
western part; and from thence tapering toward the east¬ 
ern end in the shape of a quoin. One part of the reef to 
the northward is detached with 12 to 13 feet water between 
it and the islet. The center of the islet lies 3J miles W. by 
S. from the light, and miles S. of the westernmost of the 
Hornos islands. There are three detached patches of rock 


o 


ISLANDS AND BANKS. 


wliicli properly belong to this group j they lie respectively 
7 cables by W., 4J cables K J W., and 6 J cables K | E. 
from the center of the island j the depth on these varies 
between 6 and 10 feet. The northernmost is the largest; it 
covers a space 1 cable long ENE. and WSW., by one- 
quarter of a cable wide, and lies with the center of ISan 
Gabriel island in line with Colonia light-house bearing E. 
Between this shoal and the west end of San Gabriel island, 
within a radius of half a mile from the former, there are 
other rocky heads, one of which has only 13 feet at low- 
water. Farther east toward the island the depth increases 
to 7 fathoms in places, and commonly to 6 fathoms. 

Beaumanoir Ill 1856, the brig Beaumanoir, while beating from Colonia to 
the anchorage northward of the Hornos islands, touched on 
a rock which now bears her name. The position of this 
rock is 4 miles W. by N. J N. from Colonia light-house, and 
2 miles 3 cables S. 4 W. from the W. end of the westernmost 
of the Hornos islands 5 the depth of water on the rock is 12 
feet; its extent about 2 cables. 

San Gabriel Sau Gabriel island, situated 2 miles W. of the light-house, 

land. sparsely wooded 5 a hut stands on the northern 

part of a slight elevation in the center. A reef and bank 
surround this island, the whole covering a rectangular 
space nearly 1 mile in length and half a mile in width. The 
most dangerous part of the reef lies 14 cables W. of the 
SW. point of the island; portions of it uncover at low 
water. 

Laja bank. The space between San Gabriel island and Colonia point 
is partially occupied by a bank and reef of rocks, 6 cables 
long and 2 cables wide, portions of which uncover during 
low tides; this is known as Laia bank. Between the east¬ 
ern end and the edge of the bank which fronts the shore of 
Colonia, the channel is 6 cables in width, and from 19 to 38 
feet in depth, except in one small space where there is only 
16 feet of water, over a rocky bottom. Fronting the shore 
and detached from it by a narrow passage of 15 to 18 feet 
depth, there is another rocky bank with less than 12 feet 
at low water. The southern end of this bank lies W. by 
N. of the light-house, andl^ cables from the shore; the 
northern end lies NW. ^ W. of the light-house, and 1 cable 
from San Kita point. 

Lopez islets lie E. and W. about 2 miles NW. of Col- 


Lopez islets. 


ISLANDS AND BANKS—DIRECTIONS. 55 

onia. They are barren rocks, 8 to 12 feet in height, sepa¬ 
rated into two groups, each in the midst of a long, sandy 
flat or spit extending to the northward bejmud the Hornos 
islands. There is a channel between the groups and spits Lopez road, 
about tAvo cables in width, with a depth of not less than 17 
feet. Northward of the eastern group of islets there is a 
deep bight, which extends eastward half a mile into the 
sand bank bordering the coast, having in it a depth of 20 to 
24 feet. This is named Lopez road. Several vessels have 
been hove down here for repairs, the anchorage being con¬ 
sidered the best sheltered spot in the estuary. 

There is a rocky patch, half a cable in extent, oaw which He lamp ago 
there is a depth of 5 feet, situated 3i miles N. 65^ W. of™'^ ’ 

Colonia light house and 4 cables westward of the western 
group of the Lopez islets. Half a mile NNVV. J W. of this 
there is another rocky patch 1 cable in extent, with a depth 
of 9 feet over it. These are surrounded by 14 to 18 feet, 
muddy bottom, and are doubtless a part of the Lopez rocks. 

The Hornos, situated 2 miles northward of the Lopez Homos islands, 
islets, are a group of three low, small islets lying in an E. 
and W. direction, with a channel of IG to 30 feet depth 
between the two eastern. The center and western islets are 
surrounded by a bank extending 6 cables W. by S. from the 
latter; the depths over it are from 10 to 16 feet, bottom of 
rock and clay. Near the western extremity of the bank, Etna rock, 
about half a cable distant, there is a rock, having a depth 
of onl 3 ' 12 feet over it, on which the Italian corvette Etna 
struck in 1871. Colonia cathedral, open to the southward of 
the western Lopez islet, clears this rock. The best anchor¬ 
age is 3 cables NNW. of the AA’esternmost of the Hornos 
islets, in 18 feet, muddy bottom. There are two huts on the 
eastern islet. 

In steering for Colonia from the southward the first island Directions, 
that comes in sight is Earallou, which has a rounded top, 
and is visible fully 2 miles farther than San Gabriel, which 
is low and wooded. Ering the west end of San Gabriel to 
bear N. and steer for it on this bearing until a conspicuous 
house, having one story and five windows, situated on the 
beach, comes between the cathedral and a windmill to the 
southward of it, exactly tilling the space between. This 
mark leads between the NW. end of Fisher’s bank and San 
Gabriel, in 18 feet during low water. Immediately as the 


5G CERROS SAN JUAN—MARTIN GARCIA. 

eastern islet of the Lopez group comes open of the eastern 
end of San Gabriel, bring the cathedral and mark-house in 
line, or the cathedral its own breadth open to the southward 
of the house, which will lead clear of the southeastern edge 
of Laja bank. When the central and smallest of the Hor- 
iios islets is a little open or just touching the western end of 
the eastern Lopez islet, change the course to the northwest¬ 
ward, and steer for the latter, which will lead into the road. 
Anchor when Farallon island comes in line with the south¬ 
ern edge of San Gabriel island, in fathoms, stiff mud 
bottom. 

Coast. The northern shore of the estuary from Manuel point now 

assumes a northwesterly direction for 22 miles as far as 
Martin Chico point. It is chiefly composed of low cliffs, 
interspersed with sand-beaches and backed by a line of 
Landmarks, hillocks Varying from 70 to 160 feet in height. The most 
conspicuous landmarks are: The omhu tree of San Pedro 
and the mouth of the river of the same name north of it j 
the latter may be readily known by the break in the hills, 
those to the southward being the highestj the omhu tree 
and river of San Juanj a clump of dark bushes, situated 
close to the shore, near to two small dark cliffs, 2 miles 
southward of Pareda point; and 6 miles inland, the cerros 
San Juan, which serve as a landmark all over the upper 
part of the estuary. 

San J uau river. The San Juan river has a wide shallow entrance, with 
• two channels, one of 2 feet, the other 2,J feet depth across 
the bar at low water. The depth increases to 16 and 18 feet 
inside the river, and continues so for several miles. 

Cerros San The cGiTos Sail Juau, three summits of the same hill, are 
the highest land near the northern shore of the Plata. The 
northern summit is 445 feet in height, the middle one 350 
feet, and the southern 370 feet. In clear weather they have 
often been seen from Buenos Ayres, a distance of 33 miles; 
but when the atmosphere is sufiiciently clear for this it is 
an unmistakable sign of approaching bad weather. 

Martin Garcia Martin Garcia island, situated 25.J miles N. 49 o W. of 
stand. Oolonia, and in the head of the estuary, is a mass of granite, 

about two miles in circumference around the base, rising in 
the form of a flattened cone, to an elevation of from 160 to 
190 feet. The shores are rocky, with the exception of a 
small strip of sand on the northern side, where there is a 






























































































































MARTIN GARCIA CHANNEL. 


57 


lauding place. The position of Martin Garcia island, be¬ 
tween tlie two narrow channels leading to the rivers Parana 
and Uruguay, renders it a strategic point of great import¬ 
ance. In order to enter either of these rivers, a vessel must 
pass within half a mile of the islet, on the southern side, or 
within less than a mile on the eastern. There is a battery 
on the southern side, occupied by a small garrison from 
Buenos Ayres. There are also several huts on the island, 
occupied by quarrymen engaged in procuring stone for 
building-purposes. A flag staff, a few trees, and several 
clumps of bushes are seen on the heights. 

Two beacons have been placed on Martin Garcia for the Beacons and 
purpose of guiding vessels through the channel; one isa^^“'^^' 
mast, situated near the center of the island; the other a 
white beacon near to the southeastern end. There is also 
^ fixed bright light, exhibited from the mast, between sunset 
and sunrise, which is visible about ten miles in clear weather. 

There are two channels through which vessels may enter 
the rivers above Martin Garcia; the one to the southwest 
of the island is named Martin Garcia channel; the other, on 
the northeast side, is named Canal del lufierno, on account 
of the currents and banks which impede its navigation. 

The Martin Garcia channel is about 17 miles in length, Martin Garcia 
half a mile in width, and is navigable for vessels of 14 feet° 
draught. It is formed on the west side by the extensive 
flat which occupies the greater part of the head of the estu¬ 
ary, named Playa Honda, or Palmas flat; and on the east 
by the Santa Anna and some detached banks, which extend 
to the southeastward from Martin Garcia island. It will be 
difficult to navigate through this channel without a beacon 
always in sight, not only to point out the route, but also to 
show the set of the current, which is always uncertain. 

The following buoys and beacons have been placed in this Buoys and bea- 
channel: The fair-way buoy, red, moored in 16^ feet, lies lOJ 
miles SE. J E. from the white beacon on Martin Garcia 
island. From the position of this buoy a remarkable clump 
of dark bushes, on the northern shore of the estuary, is seen 
a little open to the southward of the highest summit of the 
cerros of San Juan, bearing ^sE. 

Santa Anna bank is marked by two re J bnoys, one on the 
southeast end, which bears NVy.Ji!7., distant 2^ miles from the 
fair-way buoy; the other, near the middle of the bank, situ- 


58 


CANAL DEL INFIERNO. 


ated 2 miles NW. by N. of the preceding. A beacon is sit¬ 
uated miles NW. | N. from the last-mentioned buoy, and 
another beacon lies near the northwest edge of the bank. 

The south side of the channel is marked by a beacon sit¬ 
uated If miles NW. by W. from the southeast buoy on 
Santa Anna bank, and also by a large barrel-buoy, sur¬ 
mounted by a flag, which lies NW. J VV. miles from the 
beacon last mentioned. 

The middle bank is marked by two red buoys, one over 
the southeast end situated 3f miles SE. from the white 
beacon on Martin Garcia island, and one on the western 
side of the bank, near the center, three-quarters of a mile 
from the southeast buoy. The middle bank is also marked 
by two beacons, one near the center, on the eastern side, 
and one on the northwest end. The bank extending to the 
westward of Martin Garcia, is marked by a post, near its 
western edge, and by a square hlaelc buoy near its northeast 
end. 

These beacons and buoys are moved as the alterations in 
the channel require ; the x)ositious given above are approx¬ 
imate, and taken from a notice issued in 1870. 

Canal del infi- The Caual del Infierno, which glasses northeast of Martin 
Garcia island, has quite as much water as the other, but is 
not buoyed, and is very little used, except by the river-craft. 

It seems needless to state that neither of these channels 
should be attempted in foggy weather or at night, and that 
the services of a pilot are indispensable. 

Here, as elsewhere in the Plata, the height of the water 
depends on the force, direction, and duration of the wind. 
There is a rise of 5 and 6 feet with fresh southeasterly and 
southerly winds, and of fall with those from the opposite 
quarter. 

The uncertain depth of the channel is the cause of much 
loss of time to vessels lading abov^e, and bound into the rivers. 
There is no means of predicting the probable depth, and it 
would be an excellent plan to have a small steamer stationed 
at Martin Garcia for the purpose of sounding the channels 
daily, and signaling the depth to vessels above and below. 

SOUTHEEN COAST OF THE ESTUAEY. 

The southern coast of the estuary is low, uniform, and 
uncultivated j it is the termination of the pampas of Buenos 


CAPE SAN ANTONIO—RASA POINT. 


50 


Ayres, which extend 420 miles to the westward as far as the 
Cordilleras. On these vast plains there is no vegetation, 
save an occasional omhit tree, nor any water, except such as 
is found in the marshes after heavy rains. The only inhabit¬ 
ants are Indians or half-breeds,” whose chief occupation 
is thieving from the farms on the frontiers of the province 
of Buenos Ayres. The navigation along the coast is ren¬ 
dered difficult from the absence of marks, by which the po¬ 
sition may be established j there are a few clumps of trees 
along the shore, but these being low are visible only a short 
distance from the offing. 

Cape San Antonio is the name given to a line of coast capeSanAuto- 
which extends 41 miles K. and S., and terminates in two^^'^' 
low points, the northern named Rasa, the southern Aledano. 

The shore is a low sand-beach backed with barren hillocks, 
interspersed with clumpsof stunted buslies, which commence 
near Rasa and, gradually rising, reach an elevation of 60 to 
80 feet, near to Medano point. These hillocks are visible 8 
to 10 miles in clear weather; two of them, near together in 
latitude 36® 37' S., are a little higher than the others, and 
have the ai)pearance of a Spanish saddle. There are two 
others, one in 36° 28' S., the other in 36° 46' S., named 
Medano Chato and Medano Alto, which were used as ob- 
serving-stations when this coast was surveyed; but the 
mariner must not depend upon recognizing either, for the 
wind frequently changes the height and the appearance of 
their summits. 

Rasa point is a low spit of sand extending 1 mile north- Rasa point, 
ward of cape San Antonio, and prolonged under water IJ 
miles farther where there is a depth of about 10 feet. Three 
miles N. of the extremit 3 " of the spit is the NE. end of a 
shoal forming the crown of Tu^m bank, which extends 6 miles Tuyu bank. 
NW. and SE. with a breadth of 2 to 3 miles. The general 
depth over the bank is 10 feet, but on the shoalest part, 
named Cabo shoal, there is less than 6 feet. The sea nearly 
always breaks on Rasa spit and Cabo shoal; and when 
strong easterly winds are blowing there appears to be a line 
of breakers extending clear across the interval between 
them, where there is a depth of only 10 to 15 feet at low 
tides. 

The depth of water 1 mile from the shore between Medano Soundings, 
and Rasa points is from 10 to 13 feet; 5 miles E. by S. from 


GO 


Tides and cur¬ 
rents. 


San Borombon 
bay. 


SAN BOROMBON BAY. 

the latter it is 23 feet, bottom of saad and innd ; at a dis¬ 
tance of 9 miles to the eastward there is a depth of 7 fathoms, 
bottom the same,* and at 12 miles E3E., the depth is 
fathoms, the bottom fine sand and broken shells. The aver¬ 
age depth 10 miles from this coast is 8 to 9 fathoms, with a 
gradual decrease as the shore is approached, but this depth 
remains unchanged for a considerable distance off shore j 
at 30 miles there is about 11 fathoms, 40 miles 12 to 14 
fathoms, with occasional shoaler spots, and from thence it 
changes more rapidly to 30 fathoms 60 miles from the land. 

Admiral Eitz Eoy demonstrated that the nature of the 
bottom in the vicinity of Easa point is subject to frequent 
changes, while the depth of water remains the same j this 
he explains by the supposition that the soft mud of Tuyii 
bank is sometimes swept seaward by the currents and de¬ 
posited over the sandy bottom j but it is again stirred up 
and driven into the estuary by gales from the southward. 
There is no doubt that a continuation of fine weather in the 
estuary allows the muddy water to deposit a sediment, and 
on the banks there is a sensible difference in the nature of 
the bottom after continuous fine weather, and after heavy 
gales. It is probable that the same thing occurs within cer¬ 
tain limits outside. 

The tides are very muchinfluenced by the wind j the water 
rises with SE. and falls with N W. winds in the vicinity of cape 
San Antonio. The general direction of the current is to 
or SSE., and the rate varies from 1 to 3 knots an 
hour. The tides are comparatively regular in fine weather. 
It is high water, full and change, at 10^^ j the rise and fall is 
about GJ feet. Strong southerly winds produce a rise of 12 
feet, and sometimes more. 

Piedras point lies 55 miles N. by W. J W. from Easa; 
the intervening coast curves to the westward and forms 
San Borombon bay. The shores of the bay form the arc of 
a circle having a radius of 21 miles ; they are very low, and, 
but for a few scattered clumps of trees, they would be dif¬ 
ficult to distinguish from the sea horizon. The limit of 6 
feet depth lies between 1 and 2 miles from the shore ; that 
of 18 feet is more regular, and averages 6 miles from the land; 
inside of this limit the bottom is generally of soft mud, into 
which the lead sinks 2 feet and more. During fresh winds 
from the offing the shores of this bay present a line of con- 


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SAN BOROMBON BAY. 


61 


tinuons breakers. A vessel caught within its limits would 
find it difficult to work out under sail. 

Several narrow openings in the beach indicate the outlets 
to the marshy rivers of brackish water flowing from the in¬ 
terior xflain; the mouths of these are all obstructed with 
banks. The most conspicuous objects on the shores of the 
bay are the occasional clumps of trees named islas. The 
first remarkable group, named Juncal, is very near the 
beach on the parallel of 36^ 01' S.; the next is the Kodeo, 7 
miles to the northward; near to the latter the shore is backed 
with a line of low sand-hills about 20 feet in height, which ex¬ 
tend to Piedras point. One of these, marked on the charts 
mount Eosas, is crowned with trees, and has an elevation of 
30 feet ; the ruins of a village stand on the summit. Close 
to the shore, 1 mile northward, there is an old brick-kiln 
about 20 feet in height above the sea. 

The entrance to the Salado river is 2J miles north¬ 
ward of the brick-kiln; the bar is impassable, except 
when the waters of the bay have been raised to an unusual 
height by the wind, when there is a depth of G to 8 feet in 
the channel; at other times the smallest boat cannot even 
effect a landing, for the mud is too soft to bear the weight 
of a man. 

It is high water, full and change, in this locality about 
lOh 45m . tides rise 6 to 8 feet. The laud between the 
mouths of the Salado and San Borombon rivers is about 
20 feet in height, and visible 4 miles; at this distance the 
depth is about 12 feet; 2 miles farther off shore it is 18 feet. 
The San Borombon river is dry at low water. The most 
remarkable object between this river and Piedras point is a 
large clump of trees on the summit of one of the downs, 
marked on the chart Juan Jeronimo, situated on the parallel 
of 350 34' S. 

Piedras point is low, and composed of a friable sandstone 
named tosca by the natives and pilots. It is fronted by a 
reef of the same material, which extends 3J miles to the 
soutlnvard along the coast, and IJ miles to the eastward. 
The bank bordering the southern coast of the estuary between 
Piedras point and Buenos Ayres is largely composed of the 
same material; it extends 6 to 8 miles from the shore. The 
land is low, and cannot be seen beyond this distance. 


Landmarks. 


Juncal. 

Rodeo. 

Mount Eosas. 


Salado river. 


Tides. 


San Borombon 
river. 

Mount Juan 
Jeronimo. 

Piedras point. 


62 


PIEDRAS AND INDIO POINTS. 


Piedras bank. Picclras bank is a Continuation of the shoal which fronts the 
coast of San Borombon bay. Abreast of the point the breadth 
increases and ti e bottom becomes hard. The depth of 
water 15 miles SSE. of the point is 12 to 15 feet; the edge 
of the bank then trends to by W. for 30 miles, where it 
turns to the westward and gradually approaches the coast. 
The bottom becomes softer abreast of Atalaya point. Six 
miles E. of Piedras the depth is 18 feet; thence eastward 
the increase is gradual, but the bottom changes to soft mud 
and ooze. 

The northern and eastern approaches to dangerous depths 
are generally indicated bj^ a change in the nature of the 
bottom from soft mud to tosca mixed with gravel, and a 
very gradual decrease in the soundings, but the southern 
edges are generally steep-to, and the bottom remains soft 
until the edge of the bank is reached. 

Cerro Salvador The cerro Salvador Grande and islas Observation and 
Giaiuie. Espinillas may be seen, during clear weather, from the 
eastern edge of Piedras bank. The first is a very slight 
elevation, crowned with trees; the second is marked by an 
isolated tree on the summit; and the isla Espinillas is near- 

Caution. est to Piedras point. Errors in estimating the distance 
from the land are often produced by refraction, and should 
be guarded against. 

Indio point. Indio poiiit Ucs 15 miles KW. of Piedras. The interven¬ 
ing coast is low, and can hardly be seen from the edge of the 
bank fronting it. Memoria point is a slight projection nearly 
abreast of the so-called cerro Salvador Grande, situated 
about 8 miles to the southward of Indio point. This hillock 
is often mistaken for that on Indio point; they may, how¬ 
ever, be distinguished by the following marks : Indio point 
hill is covered with tufts of bushes, has a whitish base, and 
an elevation of 40 feet; the cerro Salvador Grande is not 
very distinct; it shows a smooth surface, and there are no 
houses near to it, while near to Indio point there are some 
white houses showing distinctly to the southward. 

Remarks. ludio poiiit is visible about 10 or 12 miles 

when the horizon is clear ; at this distance it appears like an 
island, but, as you approach nearer, the neighboring country 
comes in view ; this is generally seen from a distance of 6 
miles. In the immediate vicinity of the point the country 
is a fiat grassy plain. A small stream flows into the estuary 


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INDIO LIGHT-SHIP—MAGDALENA. 


63 


close to the point; it may entered by boats except when 
the water is very low. The crew of the light-vessel fre¬ 
quently land here for supplies, which are procured from the 
neighboring farm-houses. Having passed the point a con¬ 
tinuous line of brush-wood of uniform heiglit will be observed 
until Magdalena village is approached, when the omhn 
trees on the slight elevation near to it are more readily dis¬ 
tinguished. 

It is high water, full and change, at Indio point at 11^ twos. 

45*“ ; the rise averages 4 feet. The tides are only noticea¬ 
ble during a continuation of tine weather and moderate 
changeable breezes. 

Indio point light ship is moored in 3J fathoms 11 miles Light-sinn, lat- 
NE. J K from the tufted hillock near Indio point, and 5 ?^ 

one-quarter of a mile from the southeast end of Cuirassier 
bank. The vessel is painted red ; she has two masts, and 
about midway between them a signal stand, which from a 
distance resembles a steamer’s funnel. A black ball is 
hoisted to the fore lower mast-head, an elevation of 40 feet 
above the water. A fixed bright light is exhibited, at an 
elevation of 33 feet above the sea, from this vessel; it is 
visible 10 miles in clear weather, but owing to the frequent 
' mist about the horizon the light is often passed within a 
short distance without being discerned. The vessel often 
drifts out of position. When she has pilots on board, a red 
and white (diagonal) flag is shown forward. 

In proceeding northward, about the time Indio point is Magdaieua. 
lost sight of, bearing about S., the village and church of 
Magdalena come in sight, bearing about W. The most 
prominent omhu trees seen are in the vicinity of Magdalena, 
and farther on the village and church will be seen, sur¬ 
rounded by trees. The church stands on a slight elevation 
miles from the coast, 17 miles north-westward of Indio 
point 5 it is a large white building, with a round white dome 
on one end and belfry on the other, and is visible 14 miles, 
being the most conspicuous object on this coast. 

Ifmbudo point, situated 19 J miles N. 40o W. of Indio point, Embudo point. 
may be recognized by a reddish building near to the coast, 
which is very low and uniform. A small creek empties into 
the estuary close to the point j smaU vessels enter it to load 
hides and tallow at the saledero. There is a depth of 4 feet 
over the bar at half tides. 


04 


ATALAYA POINT—CHICO LIGHT SHIP. 


soundinss. The edge of the coast bank is very irregular in its trend 
from abreast of Indio point to abreast of Embiido. The 
limit of 3 fathoms depth is between 7 and 5 miles off shore, 
that of 2 fathoms being about 3 miles ; the bottom is shelv¬ 
ing, butchanges rather abruptly from hard mud on the bank 
to soft mud and ooze in the channel. Abreast of Embiido 
the bank becomes narrower, and the edge lies about 3 miles 
from the land as far as Santiago point. 

Ataiaya point. Atalaya poiiit, situated 12 miles K W. by W. of Embudo, is 
low, sandy, butlittle salient, and very hard to recognize. The 
land bordering the coast is swampy, and so uniform in ap¬ 
pearance that it is difficult to establish the position by land¬ 
marks. There is, however, an isolated o?nbu tree, which is 
very conspicuous from the northward, situated 3 miles west¬ 
ward of Embudo, and a clump of tall bushes, about the same 
distance southeastward of Atalaya, both of which are well 
known landmarks to the pilots and coasting captains. 

Atalaya river The Atalaya I’iver flows into the bight immediately west- 
■ ward of the point j it is very shallow, for boats only can 
enter it at half tide. The bank bordering the coast becomes 
abruptly shoaler eastward of Atala^m, and forms an irreg¬ 
ular shoal of G to 8 feet; the outer edge lies 3^ miles from 
the shore, where there is a depth of 21 feet, mud bottom ; this 
decreases rapidly to 15 feet Avithin half a mile of the bank, 
and in some places the change is abrupt from 13 and 14 
feet to 6 and 7 feet on the bank. The shoalest part lies 
exactly on the range (10 miles) of Chico light-ship. 

^chico light^ A light-vessel is moored in 5J fathoms, llj miles l^E. by 

48''^3o^ls.^riongV E. froiu Atalava point, and three-quarters of a mile from 

tu(l6 57^ 34^ 00^^ t. A j. 

AY. the northern extremity of Chico bank. The hull is painted 

red; the vessel has two masts, with stump topmasts. She 
exhibits, at an elevation of 35 feet above the water, 3> fixed 
hright light, visible 10 miles in clear Aveather. The position 
of this A^essel is frequently changed b}^ the violent currents, 
and gales from the southward and eastward. In 1873, she 
was sunk during a gale, but since then she has been either 
raised or replaced. 

Eomaiks. The followiiig description of this part of the coast was 
written by Aizpurua, in 1826, and as there haA^e been few 
changes, the mariner may find it useful. 

“ Indio point may be recognized by two clumps of trees 
on the southern side; the point is low and coA^ered with 





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REMARKS—BARUAaAN BAY. 


05 


stunted bushes, more scattered than on the coast to the 
southward. On the extremity there is a tall tree, and 
between the wooded part and the extremity there is an 
uncultivated plain. The depth of water is 21 feet at 9 miles 
from the point; the land is visible about this distance. 

When approaching from the eastward the locality is more 
easily recognized by the quality of the bottom, which, from 
very soft mud, gradually becomes hard and sticky, and 
finally, after a short interval, changes to tosca^ mixed with 
the sticky clay, the depth decreasing a little. This change 
from soft mud to sticky clay invariably occurs on the edges 
of the tosca banks; but on the edges of the sand banks the 
mud becomes mixed with the sand without being sticky. 

The depth of water and draught of the vessel must be the 
criterion for a nearer approach to the point. After having 
passed it, in proceeding northward, the scattered bushes 
which crown the hillocks from Magdalena to Atalaya will 
soon come in sight. It is difficult to recognize the differ¬ 
ent points, for they project a very little, and cannot be 
approached near enough to obtain a good view. The lead 
must be the only guide for approaching this coast during 
the night, and it should be kept in constant use, for the 
currents are more rapid and uncertain in this locality than 
in any other part of the estuary. The current of the ebb 
appears to set directly toward the edges of the bank, and 
vessels have struck on it when it was reasonable to sup¬ 
pose them on the opposite side of the channel. 

“The three first oinhu trees seen after passing Indio 
point are near the village of Magdalena; the church stands 
in the midst of a group in latitude 35^ 05' S. Abreast of 
this village the shore forms a slightly projecting point. 

Having passed the church, the first mark seen is an omhu 
tree, surrounded by a small cluster of bushes; farther along, 
three more omhu trees close together; the western is the 
tallest, the center one the smallest. Next, two openings of 
the shore; and, finally, Atalaya point, marked by an isolated 
tree and two houses.” 

At the termination of the low coast the Santiago woods Barragan bay. 
commence, and extend 9 miles to the westward, where the 
coast turns to the southward and forms Barragan bay. The 
bay owes much of its importance to an inlet opening into it, 
which was formerly very much frequented; but, owing to 
5 R P 


GG BARRAGAN BAY. 

the accumulation of sediment and the general decrease 
in the depth to 10 feet at the present time, none but coast- 
Sautiago point>ing vessels frequeiit it. Santiago, the eastern point, is very 
low, covered with trees and fringed by a shallow bank, ex¬ 
tending 2 miles off shore, wliere there is a depth of 10 feet; 
it is prolonged to the westward by a sand-spit, extending 1 
mile from the N. point of the entrance to the inlet, at the 
extremity of which there is an abrupt change in the depth 
from 3 to 7 feet. The southern shore of the bay is also 
fringed with a shallow bank, which occupies the greater 
part of the mouth of the inlet, and extends to the westward 
as far as Lara point, the western termination of the bay. 
The breadth of this bank averages half a mile; the sound¬ 
ings change abruptly from 7 to 10 feet along the edges to 1 
Lara point. Or 3 feet Oil the bank. Lara point is a little higher than the 
neighboring coast; it is well marked by a large omhu tree 
near the extremity, by being thickly wooded with low bushes, 
and by a conspicuous white house near the shore, about 
Wreck. 1 mile to the eastward. In 1871 there was a wreck about 
IJ miles from the extremity of the point; it had one mast 
standing, and was visible about 3J miles. The wreck lies 
in 14 feet, and is dangerous to vessels entering Barragan bay 
from the westward. 

Santiago bank. Santiago bank lies northward of the bay ; it is 4 miles in 
length in a diiection parallel to the coast line, and about 2 
miles in width. The depth of water in this space is from 3 
to 5 feet less than that over the coast bank, and 2 to 3 feet 
less than it is in the bay. The bottom is sand and mud, 
with occasional patches of tosca. In the bay it is soft mud. 
Landmarks. A gi'ove of five poplars, situated about 1 mile eastward 
of Santiago point, is the best landmark for Barragan bay. 
A battery, in ruins, close to some white houses, an isolated 
poplar tree, and a clump of bushes on the summit of the 
highest of a line of hillocks in the interior, are the only con¬ 
spicuous objects in the locality. The hillocks are about 100 
feet in height; the western is the highest, and on the 
middle one there is a small white house. 

Directions. The anchorage in the bay may be approached on either 
side of Santiago bank. To pass to the eastward, bring the 
clump of trees near to the white house eastward of Lara 
point to bear W., and steer for it on this bearing; to pass 
to the westward, bring tho same mark to bear S. J E., and 


QUILMES AND COLARE POINTS. 


07 


Quilmes and 
^ Colare points. 


steer for it. Anchor when a suitable depth is reached, and 
if you have no pilot, send a boat in co mark the channel into 
the creek, there being no buoys nor leading-marks. A vessel 
drawing 9 feet may cross the bar at low water j the depth 
inside varies from 10 to 17 feet. 

It is high water, fall and change, in the entrance at 7^ ; Tides, 
the rise and fall depends on the direction of the wind, and 
varies from 5 to 9 feet. Variation in 1874, 9^ 54' E.; annual variation, 
decrease 3'. 

The village stands on the southern shore of the creek, village, 
about 1 mile within the entrance ; it is a growing place, with 
about 1,000 inhabitants. It is contemplated to deepen this 
port, and construct piers and wharves, so that vessels may 
load and discharge their cargoes without the difficulty and 
delay attending this operation at Buenos Ayres. A railroad 
now connects it with that city, and there is every prospect 
of a change for the better. 

Quilmes point lies lOJ miles westward of Lara point; the 
intervening coast is very low and often overflowed; it forms 
a double bend, with a rather salient point, named Colare, 
about midway between. The land rises a little near to Quil¬ 
mes point; a short distance to the westward there is a con¬ 
spicuous cluster of brush-wood, and on the summit of the 
table-land, a short distance from the shore, stands the cathe¬ 
dral and a number of buildings. When abreast of Quilmes, 
the houses of Buenos Ayres and shipping at anchor in the 
roads may be seen, in clear weather, during the day; and at 
night the guard ship and custom-house lights should be seen, 
soon after it is passed. The coast to the westward coutinues 
low as far as the Riachuelo, 8 miles NW. by W. of Quilmes;. 
the country is being rapidly built up in villas and suburb¬ 
an towns along the line of railroad. 

The coast westward of Barragan is fringed with shallow Lara bank, 
water. The limit of 18 feet depth lies 5 miles from the land 
abreast of Lara point, 3J miles abreast of Quilmes, and 7 
miles eastward of Buenos Ayres, Inside of this the depth 
decreases with some regularity toward the shore, except in 
one place, where there is a shoal of 12 feet, with a channel 
of 16 feet between it and the coast. This is Lara bank; the 
southern end lies 3J miles NN W. J W. from Lara point, the 
northern end 4 miles ENE. of Colare. There is a depth of 
20 feet within three-quarters of a mile of the northern edge. 


(58 


LIGHTS—BUENOS AYRES. 


Light ship, lat- A guard-ship, from which a fixed bright light is exhibited 
s.T^oD^gitude 58 ^ from sunset to sunrise, is moored in 15 feet, with the Rico- 
leta bearing W. and Isla point SW. J W. The hull is 
painted black; the vessel has two masts; the light is ele¬ 
vated 22 feet above the sea, and is visible 7 miles in clear 
weather, but very difficult to distinguish from the lights on 
the vessels in the roads. There appears to be no exact posi¬ 
tion designated for this vessel, but the pilots assert that she 
is moored about half a mile from the southern end of the 
outer road. 

Lighthouse, Rroiu the tower on the custom-house there is exhibited, 
s^^VugituTe elevation of 127 feet above the level of the sea, 2 b fixed 
580 22 '19" w. light, visible about 8 miles in clear weather. The 

apparatus is a cluster of thirteen common gas-jets in a glass 
cupola; the lower tier of glass is alternately red and green 
below the plane of the light. The remaining or upper part 
is white, very dirty, and apparently very much neglected. 
There is no harbor or roadstead in the world of so much im¬ 
portance so miserably lighted and buoyed. 

BUEl^OS AYRES. 

Anchorages. There are two anchorages off Buenos Ayres, formed by 
the City and Camaron banks, extensions of the Great Pal¬ 
mas flat, which occupies the head of the estuary. The 

Outer road. Outer road is 3^ miles in length, 3 cables in breadth, and 
from 19 to 22 feet in depth at mean low water. The bot¬ 
tom in this space is soft mud, around the edges mud and 
sand, and on the banks sand predominates. In 1871 this 
road was strewn with wrecks ; there were so many that the 
best-informed pilots could not point them all out; the 
masts of a few were still standing; over others small spar- 
buoys had been placed; and over all there is generally a 
ripple on the surface, which the practiced and observant 
seaman would be likely to notice during daylight. There 
are always a large number of vessels at anchor in this road¬ 
stead ; this, together with the danger of striking a wreck, 
and the necessity of depending on the compasses, with no 
distinct or near objects for bearings, render it advisable 
not to move about after dark. The pilots generally refuse 
to do so. It frequently happens that the vessels are so 
numerous as to make it difficult to select a good berth. In 
doing this, avoid getting too near the edges of the flats. 






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BUENOS AIRES ROADS. 


< 1 ^ 


keep clear of the moorings of other vessels and the wrecks, 
and, if possible, have no vessel near you bearing between 
SSE. and ESE. The deepest water and best anchorage lie 
under the following bearings: Custom-house tower, S.38^ 
W.; guard-ship, S. 30^ E. 

The bar is the flat comprised between the 3-fathom limit 
of soundings and the southern end of the Outer roads. At 
ordinary stages of the estuary there is a depth of 15 feet at 
mean low 'water and 18 feet at high water; but it fre- 
quentl}^ happens that there is as little as 12 feet, which 
obliges vessels over this draught to anchor 7 miles from the 
town, in 17 feet, with the Resideucia, in the southern part 
of the city, bearing WS W. 

The U. S. S. Portsmouth crossed the bar, in 1871, draw¬ 
ing 17J feet. She struck on the eastern end, backed off, 
and anchored in 18 feet; during the night the water rose 4 
feet, and when crossing the bar the least depth found was 
184 feet. 

The Inner road lies off the jS^E. angle of the cfty; it is IJ 
miles in length, 2 cables in width, and 12 to 14 feet in depth. 
The bottom is soft mud in the road, but on each side it is 
hard ; between it and the coast, the bottom shelves gradu¬ 
ally up to a bank of rotten-stone, which fringes the shore 
from abreast of the convent of San Francisco to the Reco- 
leta. This roadstead is always crowded with small craft 
and river-steamers; wrecks were so numerous formerly 
that vessels were commonly injured by them; but the 
Argentine government has had the most dangerous ones 
removed, and the anchorage-ground is considerably in¬ 
creased in size. 

The Pozos is northward of the city; the depth in it is IJ 
feet more than in the Inner road; but few vessels anchor 
here, as the same draught can be carried into the Inner 
road. 

There are two routes for crossing the City bank from 
the Outer to the Inner road. The deepest is known as the 
Catalina channel; it is much used by vessels under 10 feet 
draught, but when there is any sea running, the bottom 
being hard, there is danger of injury to the hull. The lead¬ 
ing-mark through is a large white house, with an arched 
piazza, near Palermo Chico, bearing W. by S. S. A 
stranger would find it difficult to recognize this mark, and 


Bar. 


Inner road 


The Pozos. 


Directions. 


70 


BUENOS AYRES ROADS. 


Character of the 
bottom. 


Boca hank. 


PJachuelo river. 


as the hank shifts, and wrecks are to be avoided, it would 
be better to hire a pilot, who will be useful in selecting a 
good berth. 

The northern channel is 4 miles longer, but is used by the 
pilots on account of the bottom being soft. It would be 
difficult to indicate exactly the route they follow j but they 
steer th rough the Outer road its entire length j on shoaling 
the w ater about 4 feet, after reaching the northern end, they 
continue on a course parallel to the line of shipping in the 
Outer road, until the Recoleta church bears SSW.; the 
depth will, in the mean time, have decreased 4 feet more. 
The course is then changed to the westward, about W. by 
S. f S., which will be about the bearing of a conspicuous 
grove of poplars near the shore, northward of Palermo. In 
a short time after chan ging the course, the water will shoa^ 
3 feet more; as soon as it has deepened again 3 feet, change 
the course to the southward, about S. by E. J E., and steer 
for the largest ves sels in the Inner road. The depth of 
water along this course will be found to increase about 2 
feet, until you get within half a mile of the shipping, when 
it will decrease again until the road is reached. The fore¬ 
going is a translation from manuscript directions for this 
route, kindly furnished by an Italian pilot in Buenos Ayres. 
He stated t hat the pilots depended more on the increase 
and decrease in the soundings than in the actual depth; 
and they gave very little attention to shore-marks, as they 
were usually too indistinct to be recognized with ease. 

The general character of the bottom on the Palmas flat 
is a dark, fine sand; between depths of 12 and 15 feet it is 
hard and soft in alternate ridges, being hardest where the 
least water is found; between the depths of 15 and IS feet 
the sand is mixed with soft mud, and above 18 feet mud 
prevails. 

The Boca is a bank of 4 to 5 feet depth, which lies paral¬ 
lel to the shore in front of the city, but detached from it by 
a channel of 7 to 9 feet depth, in which there are a great 
many wrecks. This bank is dangerous to boats plying be¬ 
tween the shore and vessels in the outer roads; the cock 
swains should be instructed how to steer in so as to clear 
the northern end. 

The Riachuelo river, with a depth of 13 to 16 feet at low 
water, is situated 1 mile southward of Buenos Ayres, and 















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BUENOS AYRES ROADS. 


71 


serves as a port for the lighters aud coasting-craft. This 
river being the deepest on the southern coast, the town of 
Buenos Ayres was founded near its inouth. The entrance 
is obstructed by banks, so that vessels drawing over 8 feet 
seldom get inside, although those of greater draught have 
been taken in for repairs during the high tides caused by 
SE. winds. The banks of the river are occupied by work¬ 
shops, store-houses, saladeros^ aud other buildings, where the 
jjroducts of the country are prepared for shipment. The 
saladeros are principally established at Barracas, a suburb 
situated about 2 miles up the river. 

The ship-yards of Buenos Ayres are located on the banks 
of the Biachueloj they contain everything necessary to ex¬ 
ecute extensive repairs, but labor being expensive the 
prices are exorbitant. The refuse from the saladeros be¬ 
comes at times an unbearable nuisance. 

When approaching the landing-place, care should be taken 
to avoid the rocks scattered along the shore, between the 
gas-works and the custom-house pier; also the north end of 
the Boca, which is always dangerous during fresh winds. 
The sea-end of the northern pier in line with the custom¬ 
house tower leads in clear of all dangers. During, the sum¬ 
mer, when strong SE. winds prevail, the greater part of the 
day-communication with the roads is often interrupted by 
the sea; but in winter, when SW. winds prevail, the sea is 
generally quite smooth. In 1871 there were three steam- 
launchee which made regular trips between the Outer roads 
and city four times a day. By giving notice the steamer 
will come near to the vessel, and, if permitted, in smooth 
weather will touch alongside. 

The harbor is crowded with large clinker-built sail-boats, 
decked over and fitted for heavy weather, which are em¬ 
ploy ed in transporting cargoes. Steam-barges are also becom- 
ing numerous. A problem of the deepest interest to the 
merchants of this city is the increasing necessity of a more 
economical method of landing and shipping cargoes. Sev¬ 
eral schemes for the improvement of the port have been 
proposed, but so powerful is tbe influence of tlie lightermen 
and draymen that no law can be passed which would result 
in changing the present system. 

Tliere are two piers in front of the city ; one is of wood, 
and extends about 2,000 feet to the eastward from the cus- 


Landio^-place. 


Communication. 


Piers. 


ARaENTINE REPUBLIC. 


72 


tom-house; this is used for laudiDgmercliaudise. The other 
is of irou, aud starts from a point a short distance north¬ 
ward of the preceding, extending out 1,300 feet, to a depth 
of 5 feet at ordinary stages of the tide. It is proposed to 
construct another from the NE. angle of the city to the 
edge of the Inner road, where there is a depth of 12 feet. 

Winds. Easterly winds prevail in the roads of Buenos Ayres dur¬ 

ing the summer from August to March, with occasional in¬ 
terruptions by squalls from the SW., and hot, dry winds 
from the ]!IW. Westerly winds prevail in winter; these are 
occasionally interrupted by gales from the SE. quarter, 
which are very destructive to the shipping. 

Tides. It is high water, full and change, at Buenos Ayres at 12^* 

when the weather is fine and the wind light and variable. 
The flood lasts five hours, the ebb seven; the average rate 
of the tidal current is 2 miles an hour. The water rises 
from 3 to 10 feet; SE. winds cause a rise, NW. winds a fall, 
and the difference in the level is often 14 feet, and some¬ 
times as much as 20 feet. The whole extent of the City 
bank has been dry on several occasions, and carts have been 
driven to the edge of the Inner road to receive cargoes. 
During the last twenty years the Inner road has been dry 
on four dili'erent occasions. The extremes are, however, of 
very rare occurrence, and result from a continuous NW. 
wind at times when the rivers above are at their lowest 
stages. During a brief visit to the Outer roads, in 1871, 
there was on two occasions a depth of 36 feet where the 
chart gave only 22 feet at mean low water. 

ARGENTINE REPUBLIC. 

uoundary. The Argentine republic, (republica Argentina,) an inde¬ 
pendent state of South America, extending from 21° to 41o 
S., aud from 53° to 71^ W., is bounded on the north by Bo¬ 
livia, east by Paraguay, the Brazilian empire, Uruguay, 
and the Atlantic ocean; south by the same ocean aud Pat¬ 
agonia, and west by the republic of Chili. The question of 
the ownership of the Patagonian territory is still disputed 
by Chili and the Argentine republic, but with some pros¬ 
pect of settlement. Paraguay has been forced to yield her 
claim to that part of the Grand Chaco south of the Pilco- 
maio river; aud the boundary question with Bolivia still 



« 








































































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POPULATION—IMMIGRATION. 


73 


remains unsettled. The estimated area of tlie undisputed 
territory of the republic is 591,000 square miles. 

The united provinces of the republic are in number 13, 
and form three groups, divided as follows: 


Eastern or littoral: 

Buenos Ayres, population in 1869. 495,107 

Santa Fe, population in 1869. 89, 218 

Entre Eios, population in 1869 .... 134, 235 

Corrientes, population in 1869. 129, 023 

Northern: 

Cordoba, population in 1869.. 210, 508 

La Rioja, population in 1869 . 48, 746 

Santiago del Estero, population in 1869.... 132,898 

Tucumau, population in 1869. 108,904 

Catainaraca, population in 1869 . 79, 962 

Salta and Jujuy, population in 1869. 129,295 

/Western: 

San Luis, population in 1869. 53,294 

Mendoza, population in 1869 . 65, 413 

San Juan, population in 1869 . 60, 319 


Total... 1 , 736,922 


The above includes the independent native tribes. If the 
district of the Grande Chaco and Patagonia were included, 
the number of inhabitants in 1869 would be 1,877,290 5 to 
which may safely be added ten per cent, for the total 
number of inhabitants at the present date, (1874.) The 
population of Buenos Ayres, the capital city, was 177,787 in 
1869 5 it may now be safely estimated at 215,000. The 
number of foreigners in the republic in 1873 was at least 
300,000. 

Next to the United States the Argentine republic receives 
the greatest number of European immigrants. Emigration 
to the Plata dates from 1825, having commenced shortly after 
its emancipation from colonial rule. The influx of foreigners 
was inconsiderable until 1856 5 in this year measures were 
taken to encourage it, and ever since the current of immigra¬ 
tion has been steadily increasing. In the ten years ending 
in 1872, the total number of immigrants was 234,000. In 
1856 only 4,000 arrived 5 during the first eight months of 
1873, 40,000 arrived in the republic. Of these more than half 


Area. 

Divisions and 
poi)ulatiou. 


Imraigrationv 
















74 


CLIMATE—PRODUCTS. 


Description. 


Climate. 


Nat ural pro- 
tluctions. 


were Italians, while French and Spanish each stand for 
seventeen per cent, nearly ninety per cent, of the whole 
being of the Latin races. A large proportion of the Italians 
return to their nativ^e country as soon as they have accumu¬ 
lated a sum sufficient to maintain them for life. In 1872, 
8,253 persons returned to Europe. The proportion of the 
sexes is eighty per cent, of males to twenty per cent, of 
females. 

The vast territory of this country forms an oblong quad¬ 
rilateral, the W. side of which is bounded by the Andes 
for a distance of 1,300 miles. In some jilaces lateral branches 
from these mountains extend eastward 150 to 200 miles. 
The eastern portion of the country around the Paraguay is 
slightly elevated and undulating; and there are a few chains 
of low hills scattered over the southern part. But the mount¬ 
ainous tracts form but a small portion of the whole territory, 
which is, generally speaking, an immense plain intersected 
with numerous rivers, forming the most wonderful system 
of inland water communication in the world. For a de¬ 
scription of the more important rivers, see ‘‘ Affluents of the 
Plata,” at the end of this book. 

In so extensive a region there must naturally be a great 
variety of climate, yet there is one characteristic throughout, 
namely, dryness. Nowhere in the country, except on the 
Andes, is there an extremely warm or cold region. 

The natural productions of the country are as various as 
its climate. The animals include the guanaco, tapir, puma, 
jaguar, and ounce. The birds are of great variety, including 
ostrich, condor, vulture, three species of partridge, parrots, 
and an immense variety of game. The plains present but 
scanty vegetation and few species; and these, of course, 
vary considerably from N. to S. There are, however, great 
quantities of valuable timber, especially along the banks of 
the Parana and the other rivers, increasing in variety as 
you proceed to the northward and toward the mountainous 
region. The peach-tree is grown for fuel on the islands 
bordering the head of the estuary. A variety of fruit is 
also grown, but theagricultural productions are insignificant 
In Mendoza the grape finds a congenial soil and climate, but 
it is little encouraged. 

The chief products of the country are such articles as 
are derived from immense herds of cattle, sheep, and horses. 


Products. 


EXPORTS. 


The export returns for 1872 embrace sixty-nine distinct Exports, 
items, thirty-two of which are subject to duty, while the 
remaining thirty-seven are free. The following table pre¬ 
sents a comprehensive view of the exports : 


Articles. 

Quantities, 

Value. 

Wool. 


203, 610, 000 

#16, 352,122 

Sheep-skins. 

.do.. 

72, 970, 000 

4,158, 864 

Hides. 


3,121,758 

10, 571, 710 

Jerked beef. 


916, 520 

2,110,914 

Tallow.. 


1,182, 240 

7, 427, 901 

Horned cattle. 

. head. 

162, 428 

1,600, 609 

Other animals. 


58, 856 

335, 799 

Minerals. 


13, 540 

310,179 

Bones, skins, boms .. - _ _ 



2, 718, 206 

Tobacco, flour, A-.o. ____ 


156, 888 

Total. 


#45, 743,192 




It is here seen that nearly half the value of the exports 
is made up by wool and sheep-skins, which together equal 
the proceeds of the hides, tallow, and jerked beef. The 
total value of the exports for 1872 was 815,743,192. 

The amount of wool exported doubles every five years, wool and 
In 1862 it was 58,153,575 pounds; in 1872 it was 203,610,900 
pounds. Only one-half per cent, of the wool is washed be¬ 
fore exported; and the percentage of dirt is estimated at 
twenty-five per cent, of the weight. The exports of wool 
and sheep-skins would show that there were about 70,000,000 
sheep in the Argentine republic in 1872. The average an¬ 
nual increase of these animals over and above the slaughter is 
fully 10,000,000. 

The export of hides has increased fifty per cent, within Hides and cat- 
the four years from 1868 to 1872, and that of jerked beef 
has doubled. The number of the former was 2,142,643 in 
1868, and 3,121,758 in 1872; the amount of the latter was 
408,988 quintals in 1868, and 916,520 quintals in 1872. 

The number of horned cattle in the republic is computed to 
be 15,000,000 head. Eecently a great many are fattened 
for exportation to Chili, and a considerable number are sent 
to Europe. 

One-half the wool goes to Belgium, one-quarter to France, Distribution, 
and the remainder is about equally divided between Great 
Britain and the United States. We also received about 




















76 


IMPORTS—TRADE. 


one-tbird of the bides, the remaiuiug two-tbirds going to 
France, Italy, and England. The latter country takes the 
greater part of the tallow and about one-balf the sheep¬ 
skins, France taking the other half of the latter article. 

In eight years (1862-’70) the exports of the Argentine 
republic increased one hundred and twenty per cent. 

Imports. The imports consist mainly of iron, in the shape of rails, 

machinery, and all manufactured articles, groceries, fancy 
goods, &c. The value of the imports for 1872 was $59,599,143. 
Of this England sent $17,000,000; France, $14,000,000; Bel¬ 
gium, Holland,and Germany,$6,000,000; theUnited States, 
$4,500,000; Brazil about $3,000,000; Spain, $3,000,000; Italy, 
$2,600,000; the balance is distributed among the other nations. 

^Increase of im- Large as has been the increase of the exports, that of 
the imports has lately been still larger. From 1868 to 1872 
this increase has been about thirty-five per cent., while the 
exports in the latter year were only twelve per cent, larger 
than in 1868. In a word, while the aggregate tradoof the 
country only doubles every ten years, the imports are quad¬ 
rupled in the same period. 

Trade. The gross trade of the Argentine republic with England 

and France has about trebled in the last ten years; with 
France it has doubled in the last six years. The trade witb 
Brazil doubled between the beginning of 1870 and end of 
1872, and quadrupled between 1863 and 1873. That with 
Spain and Italy increased about fifty per cent, in the ten 
years, 1803-’73. The trade with the United States remained 
small and steady until 1872, when there was a slight im¬ 
provement, with good prospects for the future. The chief 
articles imported from the United States are lumber, kero 
sene oil, lard, starch, naval stores, agricultural implements, 
furniture, street and railway cars, hardware, and tobacco. 
Of lumber, 70,000,000 feet were imported during the year 
ending October 31, 1873. 

Eevemie. The revenue of the government is raised by indirect tax¬ 

ation, except a trifling tax raised directly in the city of 
Buenos Ayres. In 1863 it amounted to $6,478,000; in 1868, 
$12,000,000; and in 1873, $18,172,379. Of tbe latter about 
$13,000,000 was derived from import duties, and $3,500,000 

Expenditure, from export duties. The disbursements for 1873 were 
$23,992,975, the deficit being covered by treasury notes. 

Customs tariti. The followiug is the tariff in force since January 1, 1873, 





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CUSTOMS DUTIES. 


77 


The duties are levied on fixed valuations previously agreed 
upon, and are subject to a further thx of five per cent, ad 
valorem on all imports, and two per cent, on all exports. 

Article 1. All merchandise from abroad on importation for importation, 
home consumption will pay an ad valorem duty of twenty per 
cent., except the following, which will pay— 

1st. Duty of twenty-five per cent. Spirits of wine, beer, 
liquors, tobacco, vinegar, and wine. 

2d. Duty of ten percent. Agriculturalimplements, coal, 
iron, (sheet and bar unworked,) wood, worked gold and 
silver, common salt, silk piece-goods, sewing-silk. 

3d. Duty of three percent. Precious stones, mounted or 
ornamented. 

Art. 2. The following articles are free of duty: Staves 
and casks in shocks; articles, in the opinion of the executive, 
destined for Divine worship; fresh fruitsj breeding-stock; 
ice; printing-presses and accessories; wood and charcoal; 
printed books; maize and maize flour by land; machinery 
for steamers and all those which, in the opinion of the exec¬ 
utive, are for the establishment of a new industry, whether 
in relation to agriculture, mining, or the arts and sciences; 
furniture and tools, the ^property of and for the exclusive 
use of immigrants ; gold and silver, coined and uncoined; 
plants of all kinds; paper unsized or especially for printing 
periodicals; lithographic iiresses; seeds intended, in the 
opinion of the executive, for agriculture. 

Article 1. Duty of sij? per cent. Animal oil; horns; meat Exportation, 
cured and salted; horse-hair; cow and horse hides of all 
descriptions; bones and bone-ash ; skins in general, (except 
sheep-skins,) ostrich-feathers, and grease and tallow. 

Art. 2. Duty of two iier cent, on value. Sheepskins, 
washed and unwashed. 

All other articles are free of exi)ort-duty. It is proposed 
to equalize the duties on exports to four per cent. 

Agriculture is carried on in a very primitive manner, and Agiicuitiire. 
in many instances may still be seen at work the same form 
of plow as used by the Egyptians 2,000 years ago. How¬ 
ever, the American agricultural implements are rapidly 
coming into general use, although there is a prejudice against 
them by the Italians, who are the chief agriculturists. The 
yield of wheat is steadily increasing, and is at present suffi- 


9 


78 


TELEGRAPHS—RAILWAYS. 


cieiit to supply home demands; it is, however, of inferior 
quality, and the finer brands of flour are still imported. 

Eiiucatiou. As regards education, the improvement is very great. In 
18(>2 there were 22,000 children attending the public schools; 
in 1872 there were 80,000. In 1862 there were two national 
colleges; in 1872 there were fourteen. And there is also a 
national observatory at Cordoba, under the supervision of 
a native of the United States. 

Arjny and The army of the republic consists of 10,700 men of all 

iivy. 

branches; and the national guard numbers about 20,000 
men. The nav\y is composed of seven war-vessels of small 
size; one only mounts as many as 12 guns. 

Telegraphs. All the principal towns of the republic are in telegraph 
communication with Buenos Ayres. At the end of 1872, the 
national telegraph deiiartment had in operation 2,203 miles ; 
in May, 1873, the number of miles had increased to 4,000, 
and 1,500 more in course of construction, in addition to the 
railway lines. Buenos Ayres is also in telegraph communi¬ 
cation with Chili, Peru, Uruguay, Brazil, Europe, and the 
United States. 

Shipping. The shipping entered at all ports of the republic in 1872, 
was 3,143 vessels, aggregating 1,113,886 tons; and the num¬ 
ber which sailed was 2789 vessels, aggregating 1,037,754 tons. 
The latter belonged to the following countries: Great Britain, 
712; Italy, 267 ; Uruguay, 256; Spain, 206 ; Germany, 202; 
United States, 122; Brazil, 99; Portugal, 30; Austria, 22; 
Argentine republic, 481, miscellaneous, 492. More than one- 

steamers. half of the commerce of the country is carried on in steam¬ 
ers, the aggregate tonnage of which is 1,110,496, out of a 
total of 2,151,640 tons. The government offers an annual 
subsidy of $40,000 to any line of monthly steamers between 
the republic and the United States. 

Kaiiways. There are at present seven lines of railway opened for 
traffic, and one, if not already opened, very nearly ready. 
Nine lines more are prcijected of a total length of 1,900 miles. 
Those already opened are: 1. Central Argentine^ from Rosa¬ 
rio to Cordoba, a distance of 247 miles. There is a project to 
continue this road up to Tucuman, and thence across the 
Andes; the surveys are all concluded. 2. Southern Rail¬ 
way, from Buenos Ayres to Chasomos, 73 miles; to be con¬ 
tinued to Dolores. 3. Northern Railway, from Buenos Ayres 
to Las Conchas; whole length 16 miles; to be continued 


HISTORY. 


79 


45 miles farther. 4. ^Yestern Railway^ from Buenos Ayres 
to Cbivileoi, 100 miles. 5. Merlo and Lohos Railtcay^ 45 
miles. 6. Buenos Ayres, Boca and Barracas Railway, 16^ 
miles; aAd, if not already completed, is beingrapidly pushed 
on to Ensenada, 28 miles from Barracas. 7. Gualeguai and 
Porto Ruiz, miles. 

Grants have been made for nine new lines, as already Projected raii- 
stated, with little less than 1,900 miles of track. The lines 
authorized in 1872 will cost nearly fifty millions of dollars, 
on which the state has guaranteed seven per cent, interest, 
from twenty to forty years, according to the road. 

The public debt of the Argentine republic, according Public debt, 
to the official returns at the end of December, 1872, was 
$15,030,303. In addition to this there is a floating debt of 
nearly $6,000,000 in treasury bills. 

Tlie silver dollar, or patacon, of one hundred centesimos, Moneys, 
has an average rate of exchange equal to ninety-six cents 
American gold. The peso, paper currency, averages four 
cents. One hundred and twenty-two and a half pesos are 
about equal to an English sovweign. 

The quintal is 101.40 pounds avoirdupois j the arro&a is weights and 
25.35 pounds avoirdupois; the fanegais IJ imperial bushels. 

The metrical system of weights and measures has re¬ 
cently been adopted. Although in use in all the custom¬ 
houses, it will be a long time before the system becomes 
popular. 

The United States has a treaty of commerce and naviga- Treaty, 
tion with the Argentine republic, which was concluded in 
1853. By this treaty the United States is allowed the free 
navigation of the Parana and Uruguay, wherever they be¬ 
long to the Argentine republic. The two nations agreed 
to use their power to prevent the island of Martin Garcia 
from being retained by any state of the Plata which shall 
not adhere to the principles of the free navigation of these 
rivers. 

HISTOPvICAL SKETCH.* 

The Kio de la Plata was discovered in 1508 by Juan Diaz de Discovery. 
Solis; and as early as 1535 Don Pedro de Mendoza began the 
settlement at Buenos Ayres, while the country as far N. as 
the site of Asuncion, the present capital of Paraguay, was 


Compiled from American Cyclopedia. 



80 


HISTORY. 


Settlement, explored by parties under Ids orders. Many colonies were 
founded in that century, and much progress was made in the 
civilization of the Indians under Don Juan de Caray, who 
was in 1580 appointed lieutenant-governor of those prov¬ 
inces, which were then regarded as forming a part of the 
vice-royalty of Peru. In 1620 a new government wms 
formed,having for its capital Buenos Ayres, hitherto depend¬ 
ent upon the government of Paraguay, and both continued 
under the vice-royalty of Peru until 1776, when the vice¬ 
royalty of Buenos Ayres was created, comprising the terri¬ 
tories known as Bolivia, Paraguay, Uruguay, and the 
Argentine reimblic. 

In 1806 Buenos Ayres and Montevideo were captured by 
a small British force, which, however, was soon compelled 
to relinquish the conquest. An attempt was made in August, 
1807, by a British army, 10,000 strong, to reconquer the city 
of Buenos Ayres, but the invaders were defeated. 

AVar for inde- The Struggle for independence was begun about three 
years later, and was waged on both banks of the Plata, 
until the only remaining Spanish force surrendered in 
Montevideo in 1812. During this period the war of inde- 
X^endence was also going on in upper Peru (Bolivia) with 
varied results, and in the adjacent provinces the Spaniards 
suffered considerable reverses in Salta and Tucuman. 

Formation of Iq January, 1813, the chief power was vested in a ‘‘sover- 

the government. \ 

eign assembly” formed in Tucuman, then the seat of govern¬ 
ment. About the same time General Jose de San Martin, 
the governor of the province of Mendoza, conceived the pro¬ 
ject of crossing the Andes for the i)uri;)ose of driving the 
Spaniards out of Chili. The enterprise proved successful, 
and Chili was freed after the battles of Chacabuco and 
Maipu, (1817-1818.) Immediately afterward the Chilians 
and Argentines carried their united arms into Peru, and 
entered Lima in 1821. 

The independence of the united provinces of the Plata 
w^as declared in Tucuman on July 9, 1816, in which city, 
after the dissolution of the sovereign assembly, a congress 
had assembled March 26, 1817, and promulgated a provis¬ 
ional constitution; General Puyerredou being named su¬ 
preme dictator. 

The seat of congress was afterwards removed to Buenos 
Ayres, in the hope of securing greater liberty of action, but 







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HISTORY. 


81 


in 1820 the directory fell, and in the following year a demo¬ 
cratic form of government was established. The riverine 
provinces soon united themselves with Buenos Ayres, and 
this alliance led in 1824 to the organization of the republic. 

Brazil forced the united i^rovinces into a declaration of war with Bra 
war, and blockaded the city of Buenos Ayres, January, 1826; 
and, though the Argentine arms were for a time victorious 
by sea and land, the event served to prove the weakness of 
the union. 

The varied character and interests of the inhabitants, to¬ 
gether with the want of a rapid and easy means of com¬ 
munication between the provinces, led to a national dis¬ 
turbance, which resulted in the temporary triumph of the 
wealthy and educated classes, who succeeded in forming 
the constitution of 1825. Kivadavia was the first and only 
president of the confederation under this constitution. 

The greater part of the large province of Buenos Ayres Eosas. 
took its political bias from the independent tone of the cat¬ 
tle drivers and herdsmen. They soon found a leader in 
Juan Manuel de Eosas. Untutored in the arts of refine¬ 
ment, and at once daring in the highest degree, ambitious, 
and cunning, he soon found numerous supporters among the 
masses of the people, and especially after he had succeeded 
in extending the limits of the province of Buenos Ayres, by 
subduing the savages of the pampas and other indigenous 
tribes. No sooner had he espoused the cause of the federal¬ 
ists, than his popularity spread to the provinces. He had 
opposed the constitution of 1825, although unsuccessfully; 
but in 1827 he had acquired sufficient influence, and found 
himself certain of the aid of other popular chieftains. They 
protested against the constitution of 1825, and took up arms 
in force in support of their protest. Kivadavia, seeing him¬ 
self powerless to maintain the constitution, and aware that 
he could neither carry on the war against the Brazilians nor 
obtain a peace, resigned power, and Eosas and his col¬ 
leagues chose Dorrego governor of Buenos Ayres. 

Dorrego made a treaty of peace with Brazil, through the^Pj.ace wit i. 
mediation of England, in 1828, from which year dates the 
recognition of the Banda Oriental of Uruguay as an inde¬ 
pendent state, under the triple guarantee of Great Britain, 
the Argentine republic, and Brazil. 

Grp 


82 


HISTORY. 


Confederation A Confederation, based upon voluntary alliance, was 
le provinces. in January, 1831, between the provinces of Buenos 

Ayres, Corrientes, Entre Rios, and Santa Fe, which were 

Insurrection, soon joined by the other provinces. But some of the officers 
who bad commanded in the late war, now began to regard 
with distrust the triumph of federal principles under Dorrego 
and the other governors; and the established army of the 
republic set on foot a counter revolution, headed by one 
Lavalle, an officer of some distinction. Lavalle defeated. 
Dorrego and Rosas, and shot the former without a trial. 
Rosas, however, with Guirogo, of La Rioja, and Lopez, of 
Santa Fe, formed a new league and overthrew Lavalle, who 
resigned his post, Rosas being chosen in his place, which he 
held till 1832. 

Rosas dictator. Two governments, the first under Balcarce, and the second 
under Viamont, now followed each other in the space of a few 
months, neither being able to maintain itself, as Rozas held 
the army under his control. After the fall of Viamont, Ro¬ 
zas was re-elected governor of Buenos Ayres. His term 
expired in 1835, when he refused to be again a candidate. 
Five times the honor was tendered to him, and as often re¬ 
fused. He was then offered the dictatorship for five years, 
which he acceiited, and the appointment was twice renewed. 
He held the office until 1852, and was the sole and uncon¬ 
trolled ruler of Buenos Ayres, and practically of the Argen¬ 
tine republic, during the whole of that time. From 1827 
to 1852 there was no meeting of the national congress or 
constituent assembly. Rozas has been represented as 
an arbitrary and bloody tyrant, and accused of the treach¬ 
erous murder of all the friends who placed him in power. 

warwithUru- With the idea that all the provinces of the former vice- 
royalty of Buenos Ayres belonged to the Argentine re¬ 
public, a contest was long kept up to attempt to bring into 
it the states of Paraguay and Uruguay. The former, pro¬ 
tected in part by its natural position, and more by the 
policy of isolation and strong executive power of its singu¬ 
lar dictator, Francia, almost entirely escaped foreign con¬ 
flict. But Brazil had ever in view the conquest of the 
latter, while the Argentine government saw the importance 
of that territory, and especially the necessity of checking 
the ambition of the neighboring monarchy. The civil dis¬ 
sensions in the Banda Oriental exercised a marked influence 


HISTORY. 


83 


on Argentine politics. The matter came to a war, first, of 

blockades and then of armies, between Orile supported by 

Kozas on the one hand, and Rivera sustained by the Argen 

tine exiles in Montevideo, and also by a French fleet, on the 

other. The intervention of the French was induced by a Intervention of 

quarrel which had arisen between a French vice-consul 

and the dictator. The French difficulty was settled by the peace Avith 

appointment of a new consul, and in 1840 peace was con- gSy?® 

eluded between the confederation and Montevideo. 

This peace was not of long duration, and in 1845 Great Blockade of 

^ JBuCIlOS -A. 

Britian and Frfvnce, at the special request of the Emperor 
of Brazil, interfered on the plea of enforcing the treaties of 
1828 and 1840. The allies blockaded Buenos Ayres; seized 
the Argentine fleet, then engaged in blockading Montevideo; 
and the island of Martin Garcia, which commands the en¬ 
trances of Paraguay and Uruguay; opened the Parana, 
which Rozas had closed to vessels bound to Paraguay; and 
offered convoys as far as Gorrientes, where, in repeated at¬ 
tempts by the dictator to oppose the passage of the com¬ 
bined fleets, the Argentines sustained heavy losses. This 
state of things lasted three years, at the end of which 
period England withdrew, (July, 1848,) but France con¬ 
tinued hostilities six months longer. 

The rival factions in Uruguay, one of which was supported Rosas over- 
by Brazil and the other by Rozas, occupied the latter many 
years, while the opposition party in his own State was 
gradually becoming too powerful for him. This party, 
headed by Urquiza, governor of Eutre Rios, was now armed 
and acting in conjunction with the enemy, and at the bat¬ 
tle of Monte Caseros, February, 1852, Rozas was defeated 
and escaped to England. 

Vincente Lopez now became provisional governor of the 
province of Buenos Ayres. But, by a sudden coup Wetat, urquiza dicta- 
Urquiza, having the army at his disposal, put himself at*^’^’ 
the head of the government, aS dictator, not five months 
after the deposition of Rosas. The first use of his power 
was to acknowledge the independence of Paraguay. He 
also secured the future free navigation of all the rivers flowing 
into the Plata-r—a wise measure, which still remains in force. 

But this new assumption of dictatorial power produced imme¬ 
diate irritation. Having to attend congress at Santa Fe, 
he had hardly left the capital when (September 11, 1852,) 


84 


HISTORY. 


a revolution broke out, and Valentine Alsina was chosen 
governor of Buenos Ayres. 

Buenos Ayres The province of Buenos Ayres with this government 

scedes. determined to maintain itself as a state independent of the 

confederation, and another revolution in December, which 
temporarily changed the government, did not alter this pur¬ 
pose. The congress of the confederation did not assem¬ 
ble till November 20, all the states being then represented 
except Buenos Ayres, and Urquiza was instructed to sup- 
l^ress the rebellion in that state. It again met, January 
22, 1853, and went on with the work of ^forming a con¬ 
stitution. It also recommended the President to take all 
means to stop the civil war and bring Buenos Ayres back 
to the confederacy. 

xew constitu- The iiew constitution of the confederation, which was still 
in force, was promulgated May 1, 1853. It was framed in 
apparent expectation that Buenos Ayres, the richest and 
most important, as the only maritime, state of the confed¬ 
eracy, might be induced to return to it, and accordingly 
fixed that city as the capital. The constitution, with some 
slight modification, was copied from that of the United 
States of North America, as being a federal government of 
independent states. It guarantees the free navigation of 
the rivers, and provides that there shall be no duties on 
goods carried from province to province: grants to for¬ 
eigners all civil rights; provides for their naturalization 
after ten years’ residence, which term may be abridged at 
the discretion of congress ; and makes other provisions for 
the encouragement of immigration. It went into effect at 
the end of the year. Urquiza was chosen president for six 
years from March 5, 1854. The seat of government was 
established at Bajada del Parana, in the province of En- 
tre Eios. Meantime in Buenos Ayres a new constitution 
had also been formed in January of the same year, but not 
without a hope expressed and provision made for a future 
return to the confederation, which soon after seemed prob¬ 
able. 

Civil dissen- That province was invaded by a party of filibusters, and 

uons. Uqruiza was suspected of having fostered the movement. 

This he promptly denied, and set his forces to help repel 
them, which friendly act failed to bring about entire recon¬ 
ciliation, but resulted in good-will between the parties, and 



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HISTORY. 


two treaties of peace signed at Buenos Ayres, December 
20, 1854, and Parana, January 8, 1855. They provided for 
independent governments, but contained stipulations for 
much mutual assistance. Urquiza continued President of 
the Argentine republic, and Pastor Obligado was re¬ 
elected governor of Buenos Ayres for a term of years. 
Upon the unanimous request of the congress of the confed¬ 
eration, negotiations were opened on the subject of reunion, 
October 10, 1855, and Juan Bautista Pena was sent to 
Parana for the purpose. But the discovery that his author¬ 
ity did not extend to merging the two sovereignties 
produced much irritation in the confederation, at the same 
time that another event occasioned discontent in Buenos 
Ayres. On December 24, 1855, some Argentine refugees 
from Montevideo disembarked at Santa F6 to invade the 
province of Buenos Ayres. General Bartolome Mitre re¬ 
pulsed them, and in his turn invaded the province of Santa 
Fe, in which step he was sustained by his government. 
Upon this, not only was the mission of Pena closed, but 
th e Argentine government signified to him (March 18,1856) 
that the treaties of December 20,1854, and January 8,1855, 
were annulled. Differential duties levied upon all vessels 
from Buenos Ayres bound up the Plata and its tributaries 
gave rise to serious hostilities, which were renewed at in¬ 
tervals during four years, until November 11, 1859, when 
Buenos Ayres was re-united to the republic. 

In 1860 Urquiza was succeeded in the presidency by Dr. 
Santiago Derqui; and in the following year the expulsion 
of the deputies of Buenos Ayres from the congress led to 
the renewal of hostilities. General Bartolome Mitre defeated 
the Argentine troops at Bavon, (September 17, 1861,) and 
* was provisionally intrusted with the government, Derqui 
having abdicated. A convention appointed to revise the old 
constitution adopted a new one, and appointed Buenos Ayres 
provisional capital of the republic. In October, 1862, Mitre 
was elected President. Urquiza in the mean time remained 
on the defensive in Entre Rios, but was soon induced to 
accept the government of that province, which had entered 
into the newly-constituted republic. An insurrection headed 
by General Penalosa, who, for nearly two years, held the 
provinces of Catamarca, San Juan, and Cordoba, terminated 
in his capture and execution, (1863.) 


8G 


HISTORY. 


P a r a g u ayan 
war. 


In 1864 K. Aguirre was elected president of the Banda 
Oriental del Urugnaj^, from the ranks of the Blancos or reac¬ 
tionary party, and Venancio Flores, the chief of the Colora- 
dos or liberal party, and the unsuccessful candidate for the 
presidency placed himself at the head of an insurrection and 
readily obtained the aid of Brazil, in spite of the repeated 
protests of Lopez, President of Paraguay, to the government 
at Bio de Janeiro. 

Lopez now ordered the capture of a Brazilian steamer on 
its passage up the river to the province of Matto Grosso, 
and the detention of the crew and passengers as prisoners 
of war, November 11, 1864. In the following month a Par¬ 
aguayan army invaded Matto Grosso, sacked Ouyaba, the 
capital, and five other towns, and took possession of the 
diamond-mines. Aguirre had applied to Lopez for aid, 
which was at once promised, but the Paraguayan troops 
could only reach Uruguay by passing through the Argentine 
province of Oorrientes, and Mitre refused them permission 
of transit. In 1865, Flores assumed the functions of Presi¬ 
dent, the city of Montevideo being occupied by Brazilian 
troops. Fearing now, from the attitude of the Argentine 
republic, that it would join the alliance against him, Lopez 
seized two Argentine war-vessels in the bay of Oorrientes, 
April 13, 1865, and the next day that city was occupied by 
Paraguayan forces, who formed a provisional government 
and declared the provinces of Corientes and Elitre Bios to 
be annexed to Paraguay. War was declared by the Argen¬ 
tine republic against Paraguay April 16, and a like declar¬ 
ation was issued by Paraguay against the Argentine repub¬ 
lic on the 18th of the same month. On May 1, an offensive 
and defensive alliance was secretly entered into between the 
Argentine republic, Uruguay, and Brazil, against Paraguay, * 
the allies ‘^solemnly binding themselves not to laydown 
arms until the existing government of Paraguay should be 
overthrown.” In June the city of Oorrientes was re cap¬ 
tured by the Argentines, but was soon after in vested again by 
the invaders. During the first two months the war was chiefly 
carried on in Oorrientes, generally with heavy losses to the 
Paraguayans, who, however, had by August succeeded in 
taking one or more towms in the adjacent province of Bio 
Grande do Sul. But their advancing army on the river 


HISTORY. 


87 


Uruguay, numberiug 7,000, was defeated at Yataj^, and 
finally surrendered in Uruguayana, to 10,000 Uruguayans 
and Argentines. In November following, the Paraguayan 
army had evacuated the Argentine territory, and the close 
of December found the allies, 35,000 strong, at Oorrales, on 
the N. shore of Oorrientes, ready to cross the Parana and 
carry the war into the heart of Paraguay. Lopez, command¬ 
ing in person, was unable to defend his frontiers, and retired 
northward before superior forces, fighting for every inch of 
ground. This obstinate defense terminated with the battle 
ofLomas Valentinas, December 25-27,1868, having lasted up¬ 
wards of three years. The war continued, however, until 
March 1,1870, when Lopez was defeated and killed at Aqui- 
daban. 

In 1866, in some provinces, especially those bordering on 
Paraguay and Bolivia, great dissatisfaction with the continu¬ 
ance of the triple alliance and the war had been expressed, 
and repeated attemptsmade toinducethe separation of some 
of the northern provinces from the Argentine republic; but 
these disturbances were easily put down. Bolivia, in the 
same year, protested against the treaty of alliance, asserting 
her right to a part of the Gran Chaco, claimed in the treaty 
by the Argentine states. On December 10, a convention, 
to reform the constitution, met at Santa Fe. The only im¬ 
portant measure adopted was the renewal of the permis¬ 
sion to congress to levy duties on exports. An insurrection, 
headed by one Videla, broke out in Mendoza, San Juan, 
and La Eioja, for the purpose of separating the interior 
provinces from the republic; it was put down in April, but 
the leaders escaped. The opposition to the war had been 
increasing in strength, and was vehemently expressed, in 
1868,by Alsina, governor of Buenos Ayres,who denounced the 
contest as barbarous, murderous, and fatal. A bill which 
passed congress the same year, to make Eosario the national 
capital, was vetoed by President Mitre. In April, 1870, a 
rebellion broke out in Entre Eios, headed by General 
Lopez Jordan, the first act of which was to murder General 
Urquiza, Jordan’s father-in-law, sack his palace, and con¬ 
fiscate his property. Two of Urquiza’s sons were murdered 
in Concordia; and Jordan, having forced the state assembly 
to appoint him governor, issued a proclamation of liberty, 
and appealed to the national government for immunity from 


/ 


Civil wars. 


88 


CITY OF BUENOS AYRES. 


punishment. It was not until April, 1871, that the national 
troops succeeded in quelling this rebellion. 

Plague. In March, 1871, the city and neighborhood of Buenos 

Ayres was visited by yellow fever of the most malignant 
type ; all business was interrupted for about six weeks, and 
the mortality during the one hundred days preceding April 
30 was 26,000. 

c^qntroversy Toward the closc of the year 1871 a controversy arose 
between the Argentine republic and Brazil, the former hav¬ 
ing protested against several alleged breaches by the Bra¬ 
zilians of certain articles of the treaty of alliance of ]\Iay 1, 
1865. But General Mitre brouglit his negotiation to a suc¬ 
cessful termination in October, 1872. In this year. General 
Jordan and his followers once more rose in rebellion against 
the general government, but this movement does not ap¬ 
pear to have lasted very long, although a powerful effort 
and considerable expenditure were required to suppress it. 

Kevoiution. An insurrectlon, headed by General Mitre, broke out in 
Buenos Ayres, October 12,1874, and terminated two months 
later by the surrender of its leaders. The excuse was, that 
the recent presidentiol election had not been fairly con¬ 
ducted. Stripped of all vague considerations, it may safe¬ 
ly be regarded as one more effort, on the part of the Gaucho 
party, to reduce the republic to a condition of anarchy, and 
its result a dictatorship. The prosperity and enormous 
growth of the country during the recent presidential term 
should be sufficient evidence of the soundness of the prin¬ 
ciples against which the insurrection was raised. 

CITY OF BUENOS AYEES. 

Dimensions. The city of Buenos Ayres, the capital of the province of 
this name and of the Argentine republic is rapidly be¬ 
coming, if not already, the most important city of South 
America. It is in shape a parallelogram, having the long 
sides from E. to W. All the streets are parallel to the re¬ 
spective sides. The city covers an area of 2,000 acres, and 

Description, is divided into blocks 450 feet square. The oldest houses 
are rapidly passing away, and modern buildings of three to 
four stories are becoming general j the internal arrange¬ 
ments being more in keeping with the needs of modern civil- 




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CITY OF BUENOS AYRES. 


89 


ization. Of the streets, 83 iu number, 31 run E. and W., and 
the remainder N. and S. The pavements and sidewalks are 
still very dilapidated, but a system of improvement is being 
carried out which will greatly change them for the better. 

All the streets are well lighted with gas. Drainage is still 
unknown. Although situated on the banks of one of the 
largest fresh-water basins, the city is poorly supplied with 
good water; nearly all of it being carted from the river. 

The sanitary arrangements are bad; oftal, garbage, and. sanitary de- 
waste water being thrown into the streets, or allowed to 
accumulate under the dwellings. The plague of 1871, which 
carried otf 26,000 persons, and caused the entire suspension 
of business during three months, awoke the authorities to 
the necessity of providing a system of sewerage and water- 
supply; and in 1872 a contract was signed with a company, 
involving the expenditure of 815,000,000, for this purpose. 

In spite of the defects in sanitary arrangements the general 
health of the city is good. 

There are ten squares, seven hotels, five spacious markets, 
a great many native and foreign boarding-houses, nine Ger¬ 
man, one other foreign, and three national clubs; a British 
circulating library with 2,000 volumes; four theaters; a 
state library with 18,000 volumes, and some valuable manu¬ 
scripts ; a national library, founded in 1870 by Sarmientoj 
an emigrants’ home; a museum, founded in 1823, said to 
contain the richest collection of antediluvian fossils on the 
continent, and perhaps in the world; seventy-three public 
and ninety-eight private schools; a national college, a uni¬ 
versity, a theological seminary, a Jesuit college, a French 
religious college, and several denominational schools con¬ 
nected with the various English, Scotch, American, and Ger¬ 
man churches; an infant-school, and a number of night- 
schools, opened in 1871. 

There are, in addition to the cathedral, 15 Eoman Oatho- Places of ^or 
lie churches, 6 chapels of ease, and 4 Protestant churches ; 
two monasteries; two convents; two cemeteries—the Eeco- 
leta for Catholics, the English for Protestants; two general 
hospitals; one each of French, English, Irish, and Italian 
hospitals, and a sanitary institute, which is the best of its 
kind on the continent; and a great many other public and 
private institutions of all kinds. 


90 


SHIPPINa. 


Police, muuici- 
pal government, 
ami communica¬ 
tion. 


Need of facili¬ 
ties for landing 
cargoes. 


Shipping. 


Tlie police force is imperfectly organized, and is composed 
of only 200 men totally unfit for their business. Several 
lines of horse-cars traverse the city and suburbs. Besides 
the railways leading into the interior, there is daily com¬ 
munication by steamers with the important river ports, and 
frequent communication with others. Ten daily papers are 
published in the city; six in Spanish, one each in English, 
French, German, and Italian. The municipal government 
is composed of twelv^e leading citizens and foreign residents. 
The city is divided into twelve parishes, each having a jus¬ 
tice of the peace. 

The want of proper facility for landing and shipping goods 
has long been a source of complaint to all persons connected 
with the trade of Buenos Ayres. The cost of landing goods 
is equal to and often greater than the cost of bringing them 
from Europe or the United States. With a view of over¬ 
coming this difficulty, the government has consulted, and 
invites plans from, many eminent engineers for the improve¬ 
ment and deepening of the port; but, beyond the construe- ^ 
tion of two piers, respectively 1,300 and 1,900 feet in length, 
and the deepening of the entrance to the Biachuelo, nothing 
has been accomplished. 

The custom-house returns of the port give the following 
as the movement of shipping for 1872 : 


Arrivals and departures of sailing-vessels. 


Countries. 

Number arrived 
with cargoes. 

Tons. 

Number sailed 
with cargoes. 

Tons. 

Great Britain. 

216 

82, 435 

122 

42, 695 

"France... 

243 

8.5, 381 

59 

29 447 

United States and Canada. 

168 

79,911 

55 

24, 168 

Brazil. 

160 

.34, 442 

106 

24, 720 

Spain. 

195 

61, 073 

Other countries. 

315 

89, 255 

434 

140, 007 

Belgium. 



82 

36 141 

Total. 

1,297 

432, 497 

858 

297,178 




















STEAMEKS. 


91 


Arrivals and departures of steainei's. 


Countries. 


N umber. 


Tons. 


Great Britain ... 

France. 

Italy. 

Belgium.. 

Uruguay. 

Paraguay.. 

Other countries . 

Total 


a.5 


97, 780 


41 

22 

13 

400 

91 

51 


48, 858 
21, 695 
15, 099 
145, 568 

28, 310 

29, 063 


703 


386, 373 


In atUiition to the above, about 20 sailing-vessels arrived Kemarks. 
and about 200 cleared in ballast. As regards the cargoes in 
steamers, it should be borne in mind that all of the steamers 
to and from European and American ports outside the 
Plata arrive and sail only partly laden. From the above 
it will be observed that, even including the arrivals from 
Uruguay and Paraguay, the half of the tonnage frequenting 
the port of Buenos Ayres consists of steam-vessels. At 
the end of 1872 there were no less than 92 large, tine steam¬ 
ers emidoyed in this trade, comprising 13 lines plying reg¬ 
ularly between the ports of Europe and Buenos Ayres, and 
touching at the port of Montevideo and various ports in 
Brazil. 

1. The Royal Mail Steam-Packet Company runs six ves- Lines of stoam- 
sels, ranging in size from 1,500 to 3,400 tons, of which one 
arrives every fifteen days. 2. The Liverpool, Brazil, and 
River Plate Steam Line comprises twenty four vessels, rang¬ 
ing from 1,000 to 2,2G0 tons; from four to five of these 
arrive at Buenos Ayres every month. 3. The Glasgow and 
Belgium Line with tivelve vessels, ranging from 840 to 1,300 
tons; of this line there is one each month to Rosario. 4. 

Another Glasgow line runs two vessels of 1,500 tons each. 

5. The Hamburg line has five steamers of 2,700 tons, with 
one arrival each month. G. The Lavarello line (Italian) 
with seven steamers, ranging from 800 to 2,150 tons, with 
one arrival from Genoa each month. 7. The Italian and 
River Plate Company with three vessels, of 1,010 tons. 8. 

The Savori (Italian) line with two vessels, of 900 tons each. 

9. A Havre line (French) with five steamers, ranging from 
1,730 to 2,500 tons, making one voyage per mouth. 10. 

















02 


OLIVOS BAY. 


Kp marks. 


Freights. 


Supplies. 


A m e r i c a 
houses. 


Olivos bay. 


Another Havre line with seven vessels, of 800 to 1,000 tons, 
making one voyage per month. 11. A line ot steamers 
from Marseilles with four vessels, of 878 to 1,300 tons, mak¬ 
ing one voyage per month. 12. The Messageries Maritimes 
Line from Bordeaux withsi.r steamers, of 1,600 to 2,033 tons, 
making two voyages per month. 13. The Bayonne Line 
with one steamer of 438 tons. 

In the year 1872 forty-two British vessels, measuring 
18,453 tons, entered from ports of the United States, and 
seventeen, measuring 9,167 tons, cleared for ports of the 
United States. As the total entries from ports of the 
United States were 168 vessels, measuring 79,911 tons, and 
departures for these ports were 55 vessels, measuring 24,168 
tons, it is evident that the English have the carrying of a 
large proportion of our trade with Buenos Ayres. Freights 
for the United States ruled during the year 1872 at $5 per ton, 
and five per cent, per ton of 40 cubic feet, for bales or 
measurement goods ; and five-eighths of one cent i)er pound, 
and^re per cent., for hides and all weighable goods. 

All articles necessary to the equipment and provisioning 
of vessels may be obtained at Buenos Ayres. Repairs may 
be executed above the water-line to vessels at anchor in 
the roads, but the time lost in transporting the workmen 
to and from the shore would greatly increase the cost. 
Coal for any purpose, and of all kinds, may be had, 92,000 
tons of this article having been imported during the year 
1872. 

n There are fourteen American houses engaged in business 
in the city, representing a cash capital of two and a half 
million of dollars gold. Of these eight are merchants, two 
harraqueros, one grocer, one stationer, one manufacturer, 
one dealer in American goods in general. There are also 
nine English houses, six German, two Italian, six native, and 
one French, which ship to a considerable extent to the 
United States; but the heaviest shipper is a native. 

COAST NORTHWARD OF BUENOS AYRES. 

Olivos bay is comprised between Retiro point, the north¬ 
east angle of Buenos Ayres, and Olivos or San Isidro point, 
situated 9 miles to the NNW. J W. of the Ricoleta. Sev¬ 
eral small streams empty into the bay. The most conspic- 


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CITY OF ROSARIO. 


m 


uous objects on its shores are the palace of Rosas, at pres¬ 
ent very much neglected, and the village of Belgrano, on 
an elevated plain about miles inland. 

The delta of the Parana commences at 6 miles NW. by Las Couchas 
W. of Olivos point, where there is an excellent port in the"^^^’ 
entrance to the Tigre or Las Conchas river. At high tides 
vessels of 8 feet draught can reach this port; and in fresh 
SE. winds many leave the roads of Buenos Ayres to seek 
shelter in it; but a good pilot is necessar 3 ^, as all this part 
of the head of the estuary" is occupied by the extensive 
Palmas flat, on which near the shore the depths are very 
irregular, the channel is winding and subject to frequent 
changes. There is as much as 12 to 17 feet in the channel 
at ordinary high tides, but the navigation is intricate for 
vessels over 8 feet draught. 

Above the Tigre the appearance of the coast entirely Delta of the 
changes. It becomes broken into a great mau^^ wooded, 
marshy islands, forming the delta of the Parana. The vari¬ 
ous outlets are deep, but narrow, winding, and known only 
to the pilots. Three of them are more frequented than the 
others; these are the Arroyo del Capitan, Parana de las 
Palmas, and Boca del Mini. The Parana Guazii, the only 
entrance frequented by large vessels, lies 25 miles NE. of 
the Tigre. 


PORT AND CITY OF ROSARIO. 

The navigation of the estuar^^ is possible without the Remarks, 
assistance of pilots as far as Buenos Ayres; but even the 
most expert seamen and experienced captains must yield to 
necessity, and secure the services of a pilot before attempt¬ 
ing to ascend the rivers. The banks are constant!}^ changing 
their appearance, and landmarks are obliterated; the 
channels shift; the currents change their directions ; and 
all nature seems to conspire to prevent the river-navigation 
by all who do not make it a specialty. The responsibility 
of the captain lies mainly in securing a good pilot, who 
combines knowledge and sobriety with energy. 

With a pilot on board there would be no use for sailing- 
directions, to write which would be a waste of time, and to 
follow them an impossibility. With this belief we proceed 
to give some general information in relation to the city of 


U4 


CITY OF ROSARIO. 


Rosario. 


Growth. 


Rpr>ort of 
s»l Wood. 


JRosario wliicli will be found useful or interesting to mari¬ 
ners in general. 

The city of Rosario, now the second in the Argentine 
republic, bids fair to become the metropolis of South 
America; for its position and advantages make it the 
receiving and distributing center of a vast and wealthy 
region, comprising the eleven interior provinces of the 
republic, Bolivia, Paraguay, and the interior iirovinces of 
Brazil, through which flow the branches of the Parana. 
Up to the year 1852 this vast region had no foreign com¬ 
merce, and, until very lately, the most of it has been with 
Chili, Bolivia, and Paraguay. In 1853 the population was 
under 4,000; in 1874 it is not less than 35,000. In 1860 
but one foreign vessel entered the port from sea; in 1870 
the number which entered was 115, with an aggregate ton¬ 
nage of 25,832 tons, and the number which cleared was 156, 
with an aggregate tonnage ol 39,127 tons. Of those which 
entered one only was in ballast; but 113, with an aggre¬ 
gate tonnage of 28,285, cleared in ballast. The closer prox¬ 
imity of Buenos Ayres to the ocean is counterbalanced by 
the greater facilities which this port possesses for discharg¬ 
ing and loading vessels; while the charges are so much 
less that merchants can sell goods in original packages 
cheaper than they can be sold at Buenos Ayres. 

The increase of the custom-house receipts will give a clear 
idea of the growth of the commerce of the port. In 1854 
these were $340,370; in 1855, $583,120; in 1860, $860,685; 
showing an increase of nearly 50 per cent, in five years. In 
1870 the receipts had risen to $1,467,255, an increase of 150 
percent, in fifteen years; and for the first ten months of 
1872 they had reached $1,635,100. In 1871 the value of the 
merchandise imported was at least $12,500,000. Previous 
to 1871 there were no steamers engaged in the direct trade 
between this port and those beyond the sea; by the end of 
1872 there were two lines of British steamers making regu¬ 
lar monthly trips between it and Liverpool; and there are 
at the end of this year (1874) four lines. 

Con- The following from the official report of Mr, Thos. B. 
Wood, United States consul at Rosario, dated September 
30, 1873, will repay careful perusal: 

The port of Rosario is by nature one of the most conven- 


CITY OF ROSARIO. 


95 


ient of river portvS. Though about 850 miles from the sea, 
it is accessible to large vessels, which ascend the Parana 
without difficulty, and find here ample accommodations and 
many advantages. The river presents a sheet of water 
from 1,000 to 1,500 yards wide to the first tier of islands, 
with good anchorage, at a depth of from 18 to 28 fathoms 
at low water, and a variation of from 3 to 4 fathoms 
between high and low stages of the stream. The river falls 
during May, June, July, and August, and rises during 
November, December, January, and February. There is 
no tide. The difference of level in a year may reach 34 
feet, but this is rare. A bluff, 50 or 60 feet high, on which 
the city stands, with deep water at its foot, is taken advan¬ 
tage of by mooring vessels close under it and loading them 
by means of chutes or inclined planes, down which the 
bales of wool, hair, and sheep-skins, as well as the lime, 
hides, &c., that constitute the chief exports here, can be 
slid into the very holds of the vessels at any required speed, 
and with the least possible handling. At the same time, 
merchandise of all kinds is brought up this bluff by 
machinery, very cheaply and rapidly. A new custom-house, 
costing about $150,000, has been erected ; this is the first 
step in a general plan of public improvements which will 
add artificial to the natural advantages of the port. Docks 
and wharves are to be constructed, with a branch track con¬ 
necting them with the central Argentine railroad, so that 
the transshipment of merchandise may be carried on as 
cheaply and rapidly as possible. 

The river navigation to this place presents no unusual 
difficulties. There are three shallow points in the Parana: 
one at Martin Garcia, where it enters the Plata, the second 
25 miles up, at Cruz Colorado, and the third 12 miles farther 
up, at Kama Negra. Sometimes, at extremely low water, 
the last two points will not admit vessels of more than 10 
feet draught; but such times are confined to the months 
of September and October. At other times there is plenty 
of water, and at all other points but those named the depth 
and also the width of the river are always ample. The trip 
from the entrance to the estuary to Rosario, requires about 
48 to 60 hours in steamers, and about five days in sailing- 
vessels; although rarely a northerly wind prevails for a 


River naviga¬ 
tion. 


m 


CITY OF ROSARIO. 


number of clays together, which delays upward-bound ves¬ 
sels. 

Railway sys- The railway system of the interior has its starting-point 
here. The main feature of the system alluded to is that 
it is to consist of two lines to connect the Parana river at 
this point with the Pacific coast, furnishing points of de¬ 
parture for branch lines to every part of the interior of South 
America. The first of the transaudine lines is to run through 
Cordoba, Tucumau, Oatamarca, and thence across the Andes 
to Copiapo, and its sea port. The second is to run through 
Kio Quarto, Mercedes, San Luis, Mendoza, and thence across 
the Andes to Santiago de Chili, and so on to the Pacific at Val¬ 
paraiso. The first isaleady completed to Cordoba, and nearly 
ready to Tucuman. The line from the mountains to the sea, 
through Copiapo, was completed some years ago. The sec¬ 
ond is already in operation to Rio Quarto, and under con¬ 
struction to Mercedes. The west end of this line is also 
completed from Valparaiso to Santiago de Chili. Another 
line, independent of these two, is to run from this city north¬ 
ward through the agricultural colonies of this province to 
Santiago del Estero, to be continued to Oran, and thence 
to enter Bolivia. The contracts for this have been let and 
the first section commenced. All the future railways of the 
interior seem destined to connect themselves with these 
great lines. A general colonization scheme is to acccom- 
pany this railway building, all under the direct management 
of the government. 

Telegraphs. There are now two lines of telegraph connecting Rosario 
with Buenos Ayres, one owned by a company, the other by 
the national government. The latter branches out from 
here to all parts of the interior; northerly to Paraguay and 
Brazil; northwesterly to Jujui, and the most remote prov¬ 
inces of the Argentine republic ; westerly across the Andes 
to Valparaiso and other Chilian ports. The uniform charge 
for a telegram to any point of the republic is 25 cents. 

Trade, (for- Direct foreign commerce at Bosario. 

eign.) _ 


Imports and exports. 

For 1870. 

For 1871. 

For 1872. 

Imports... 

$4, 661, 793 
1, 402, 124 

$6, 541, 990 
1, 841, 774 

$7,189, 726 
2, 756, 001 

Exports... 

Total foreign commerce. 

6, 063, 917 

8, 383, 764 

9, 945, 727 


















































































































































•V 











































































































































CITY OF ROSARIO. 


97 


Direct foreign namgation at Rosario. 


Steamers and sailing-vessels. 

For 1870. 

For 1871. 

For 1872. 

Tonnage of steamers entered and cleared. 

27, 832 
51,100 

103, 490 
51, 534 

159, 200 
71, 009 

Tonnage of sailing-vessels entered and cleared.. 

Total foreign navigation. 

78, 932 

155, 024 

230, 209 


Proportion of steam tonnage to total, per cent.. 

35 

66 

69 


Although the tonnage of sailing-vessels is increasing, that 
of steamers is gaining on it rapidly. The vessels that are 
taking possession of the carrying-trade of this river are the 
iron screw-steamers. Not one of them carries the United 
States flag. 

The commerce of Eosario with other ports of the republic 
in 1872 was $3,029,531 imported, and $2,868,750 exported. 
This trade was carried on in 1,372 entries with an aggregate 
tonnage of 111,797 tons, and 1,379 departures, aggregating 
117,990 tons; being a total of 2,751 vessels and 229,787 
tons of home or local trade of the port. 


Summary of value of merchandise, and tonnage of vessels. 


From— 

Values. 

Tonnage. 

Imported. 

Exported. 

Total trade. 

Entered. ■ 

Cleared. 

Total 

navigation. 

Argentine ports 
Foreign pcrts.. 

$3, 629, 531 

7,189, 726 

$2,868,756 

2,756,001 

$6, 498, 287 
9, 945, 727 

111,797 
119, .548 

117, 990 
110, 661 

229, 787 

230, 209 

Total.... 

10,819, 257 

5, 624, 757 

16, 444, 014 

231,345 ^ 

228,651 

459, 996 


The number of vessels flying the flag of the United States 
that entered this port during 1872 was 12, aggregating 
3,301 tons, and the number that cleared was 11, aggregating 
3,140 tons; and all of these were sailing-vessels. 

The wooden sheds and mud huts of 1853 have given 
place to neat and even elegant houses. The city is well 
laid out, streets paved, and lit with gas, and traversed by 
a street-railroad ; while churches, banks, hotels, theaters, and 
many vessels loading and discharging at the river side, give 
evidence of its progress. 

Coal and all other supplies may be obtained in abundance, 
and at prices comparing favorably with any port in South 
America. Repairs above the water-line may be executed; 
and there are facilities for heaving down. 

7 R P 


H ome trade. 


United State 
flag. 


Remarks. 


Supplies. 



























CHANNELS AND SOUNDINGS. 


\)S 


BANKS AND SOUNDINGS. 

Caution. The navigatoF should not place reckless reliance on the 

form and dimensions of the banks of the Plata, as shown on 
the charts, and described in the following pages. These 
banks are undergoing constant modification by the currents 
and sea; some disajipear entirely, others are formed; some 
preserve their general character, but from accamulations 
on one side, and washing away on the other, their position 
is changed from one side to the other of the channel. Sev¬ 
eral small banks lying close together have become united, 
and now form one extensive bank. 

Beil of the estu- The bed of the estuary appears to be a rocky substance, 
covered with alternate layers of sand and mud. In some 
localities the rocks rise to the surface of the water and con¬ 
stitute the chief dangers in it. 

Channels. The two principal channels appear to have the same gen¬ 
eral depth of water at the present time that the^^ had when 
the Spanish surveys were made, but their direction is very 
much changed. The bottom in the channels is of soft mud; 
on the banks it is of sand; around the edges of the banks it 
is a mixture of mud and sand. The pilots depend on the 
change in the bottom, more than the change of depth, for 
, a warning when approaching danger. This seems to be an 
unerring guide to those familiar with the navigation. 

Soundings. Tlie edge of the bank of soundings, and the lines of equal 
depth, between the parallels of 34^ 30' S. and 36'^ 00' S., 
trend to NE. and SW., or nearly parallel to the general 
trend of the coast. The depth decreases with some regu¬ 
larity when the land is approached at right angles to these 
lines. 

The depth of water between 75 and 90 miles from the 
land is 80 to 88 fathoms; between 60 and 75 miles it is 38 
to 43 fathoms. It increases to the southward and eastward, 
and decreases to the northward and westward. Inside of 
the 40 fathom limit, the depth changes very irregularly, and 
the quality of the bottom becomes the best guide. The sea 
changes color about 70 miles beyond the limits of the estu¬ 
ary; the bluish tint gradually gives way to a yellowish 
green, and this to a muddy color as you approach the entrance. 

Parallel of 34° Between 85 and 90 miles from the land, on the parallel 
of 340 S., the depth is about 65 fathoms. The edge of the 
bank in this vicinity is steep-to ; but inside of this depth 


SOUNDINGS. 


99 


the soundings decrease rapidly to 22 fathoms, at 50 miles 
from the land; and from thence the decrease is more gradual. 

The bottom is a mixture of sand, mud, and shells, where the 
depth is from 65 to 22 fathoms, but inside of the latter 
depth the mud disappears. 

On the parallel of cape Castillo, 34° 25' S., the depth is 55 to 
60 fathoms, bottom of black mud, at 90 miles from the land; 
but the bottom changes from black mud to sand when ap¬ 
proaching the coast on this parallel; and the depth de¬ 
creases to 20 and 22 fathoms at 40 miles off shore. In the 
vicinity of cape Castillo, the lead will frequently bring up 
a few small red or pink broken shells; these are not found 
in any other locality, and therefore serve as a good mark 
for the cape. 

On the parallel of.cape Santa Maria the depth is 24 to Parallel of 340 
26 fathoms, bottom of fine sand and shells, at 60 miles from 
the land; it increases to 60 fathoms‘at 74 miles, and to 80 
fathoms at 105 miles off shore. On this parallel, and to the 
northward, the bottom is sand, sometimes mixed with sliells ; 
to the southward it clianges to very fine sand, sand and mud, 
and in some places mud and gravel. 

On the parallel of Lobos island the bank of soundings Parallel of 350 
extends about 120 miles off shore, where the depth is from ' 

90 to 98 fathoms, bottom of sand and mud. When standing 
to the northward, on or near the meridian of 52o 25' W., the 
depth will decrease to 58 or 60 fathoms, when the parallel of 
cape Santa Maria is reached; but in proceeding southward, 
on the same meridian, you will very soon run off the bank 
of soundings. After having obtained soundings on the 
parallel of Lobos island, in 90 to 96 fathoms, and made 50 
miles to the westward, if the depth is 23 to 26 fathoms, bot¬ 
tom of muddy sand, the position is still on this parallel. 

Continuing the same course the depth will diminish, and the 
bottom gradually become more muddy. 

On the parallel of English bank, or 35 ^ 11' S., after hav- Parallel of 350. 
ing crossed the Plata bank in 11 fathoms, the depth will^^ 
increase to 17 and 20 fathoms until the meridian of Lobos 
island is reached. It will then decrease rapidly to 5 and 6 
fathoms, sandy bottom, 15 miles eastward of the bank, on 
the meridian of 55^ 35' W. 

When approaching the entrance on the parallel of 35 ^ 20 '^^Paraiiei of 35° 
S., the depth will be 7 fathoms, bottom of sand, on the same 


100 


LA PLATA BANK. 


meridian, and will not increase to the westward of this me¬ 
ridian ; but on the parallel of 36° S. it will increase to 10 
and 11 fathoms, on the meridian of 56^ 20' W. 

Between the parallels of 35° 20' S. and that of cape San 
Antonio, the bottom is a mixture of sand, shells, and gravel. 
At 45 miles eastward of the cape the depth is only 15 
fathoms j at the distance of 84 miles SE. of the cape it is 
40 fathoms; and at 15 miles N. of the cape it is 6 to 7 
fathoms. 

La Plata bank. La Plata bank is a remarkable ridge of soundings, which 
trends nearly parallel to the coast, between Castillo cape 
and East point, at a distance of 42 to 46 miles from the land, 
and lies between the meridians of 53^ and 55® W. In some 
places the bank is very narrow, and may be crossed between 
two casts of the lead taken in rapid succession ; but the aver¬ 
age breadth is about 5 miles. The depth of water on it varies 
between 10 and 14 fathoms, and the average depth is 11 
fathoms j the bottom is sandy. The outer edge is steep-to, 
and there are a few places on the inner edge where the wa¬ 
ter shoals rapidly from 17 or 18 fathoms to 11 and 14 fath¬ 
oms. The channel between the bank and coast varies be¬ 
tween 30 and 40 miles in width, and 16 to 25 fathoms in 
depth ; the bottom is soft mud in the middle j this gradually 
changes to sand as the edge of the bank is approached, and 
becomes entirely of sand when on the bank. At a distance 
of 6 to 9 miles from the coast the bottom is fine sand, mixed 
with gravel and shells. Approaching from seaward there 
is nothing to indicate the vicinity of the bank until the wa¬ 
ter shoals; but when standing off shore the edges are 
marked by a gradual change in the bottom from mud to 
sand. 

The depth of water in the channel between Lobos island 
and the coast varies between 11 and 16 fathoms, muddy 
bottom. South of Lobos, as far as the parallel of 36® 10' S., 
the bottom is very soft mud, and the depth of water is be¬ 
tween 16 and 17 fathoms. When this parallel is reached it 
changes to a hard bottom, composed of coarse sand, mixed 
with broken shells, the depth remaining the same until 
the Plata bank is reached, where it decreases to 12 or 14 
fathoms j bottom of fine sand and broken shells. 

In order to keep north of the parallel of English bank, 
keep in a soft muddy bottom, standing to the uorthw^ard as 













































































































I 















































ENGLISH BANK. 


101 


the bottom chaiij^es to coarse sand. In proceeding up the 
estuary, toward Flores island, the depth will decrease grad¬ 
ually, but as long as you keep in the channel the bottom 
will be soft mud. 

English bank is a dangerous rocky shoal, partially cov- EugUsh bank, 
ered with sand, and dr^^ at several places at low water, on 
which the sea continually breaks on a space 3 to 4 miles in 
extent. The northern breaker lies 11 miles S. 3° E. from 
Flores light, in latitude 35° 09' 30" S., longitude 55^53' W. 

The southern breaker lies iu latitude 35° 13' S., and longi¬ 
tude 550 52' W. The space covered by the bank on which 
there is less than 3 fathoms depth is 12 miles in length and 
miles extreme breadth. The muddy bottom becomes 
more and more mixed with sand as the bank is approached 
from any direction, aud it changes to sand as soon as the 
edge is reached. In some places this change from soft mud 
to hard sand is abrupt; this occurs chiefly on the northern 
side. When near this edge of the bank the bottom will be 
fine, white sand, mixed with shells; near the southern edge 
the sand is fine, of grayish color, and often mixed with mud. 

The soundings eastward of the bank are very irregular, 
varying between 4 and 6 fathoms over a space 19 miles in 
length and 5 to 8 miles in width. There appears to be 
another bank in course of formation, which will be separated 
from English bank by a channel 4 to 5 miles in width and 7 
to 8 fathoms in depth. This space has never been examined 
witli care, and it is quite possible that shoaler and danger¬ 
ous spots exist. The bottom on this shoal ground is mud 
and sand, while that eastward of it is sand and broken 
shells. There are 6 and 7 fathoms depth close to the north 
end of English bank, but a vessel south of this parallel will 
pass over the shoal water and uneven bottom east of the 
bank ; therefore, if the lead be kept constantly in use, you 
will be warned of the danger by a subsequent increase of 
depth and more regular soundings. If obliged to anchor 
near the edge of the bank, it is advisable not to remain 
long in one position, for the bottom is so sticky and tough, 
iu some places, that it is difficult to break out the anchors 
after they have been down some time. 

A vessel with three masts, having her hull painted red, is Light ship, lat- 
moored in 7 fathoms, 2J miles NNE. of the north end of longit^L 55 ^ 52 ' 
English bank, under the following bearings: Cerro light 


102 


ENGLISH BANK—WRECKS. 


Bell-buoy. 


recks. 




NW. by W.; Flores island light, !N. by W. J W. A fixed 
bright light is exhibited at an elevation of 40 feet above the 
water, and is visible 10 miles in fine weather and a smooth 
sea; but when the vessel has much motion the light is low¬ 
ered, and the average distance it is visible does not exceed 

8 miles. During the day the vessel cannot be seen over 6 
miles. Formerly there were a great many complaints about 
this light, but, owing to stringent orders which have been 
recently given to the keepers, the light is said to have be¬ 
come of some service to mariners. Soon after losing sight 
of Maldonado light, Flores island light is sighted first, if 
the vessel is in a favorable position for the channel; if not, 
thelight of the light-ship will be seen first. When this occurs 
the course should be changed so as to pass east of it and 
bring Flores light in sight. 

A bell-buoy^ ])iimted red,4| feet in height above the water, 
and visible from a distance of 3 miles, is moored in 28 feet 
depth, under the following bearings: English bank light¬ 
ship, NW. by K, distant 10 miles ; eastern edge of the bank 
W. by S., distant 2J miles; northern end, NW. J W., distant 

9 miles; southern end, SW. by S., distant 7 miles. The buoy 
lies in latitude 35^ 14' S., longitude 55^ 46' W. 

The channel between the north end of English bank and 
the rocks off Flores island is 10 miles in width, and clear of 
all danger. The English frigate Bombay was destroyed 
by fire in 1864, and the wreck sunk 6J miles S. of Flores 
island. In October, 1865, an English gunboat steamed over 
all parts of the wreck during a smooth sea, and low tide, and 
the least water found was 5J fathoms over the wreck, with 
7 and 7J fathoms soft mud on either side of it. The bow¬ 
sprit remained awash,secured to the wreck, for a considera¬ 
ble time afterward, but it finally broke adrift. In 1871 the 
l)ilots reported that the wreck had been driven northwest¬ 
ward by the heavy gale of October, 1869, and that the bow¬ 
sprit was visible at extreme low water. The Spanish corvette 
Ceres was sent to search for it in 1872 ; 2,620 soundings 
were made without discovering any traces of it, and the 
least depth found was 6J fathoms. The commander is of 
the opinion that the lighter parts of the Bombay have been 
carried away by the sea, and the heavier parts have become 
embedded in the mud. It is prudent to pass close to Flores 
island, so as to avoid all risk. 


ARCHIMEDES, MEDUSE, AND NARCISSE BANKS. 103 

The wreck of an iron vessel, recently sunk, lies under the 
following bearings : Flores island light, EISTE.; Cerro light, 

N. by W. J W.; Brava point, K by E., distant miles. 

The two lower masts remain attached to the wreck, one of 
which, having become unshipped, floats heel uppermost, and, 
projecting 10 or 12 feet above water, acts as a spar-buoy. 

The other mast remains stepped, and as its head is barely 
awash, forms a danger in mid-channel to be avoided in 
entering or leaving the estuary. 

The Archimedes bank was discovered by an English frigate Arch i m e d e s 
of this name, which struck on it. On examination, the bank 
was found to cover a space 6 miles in length, in a direction 
WNW. and ESE., and 5 miles in extreme width across, the 
eastern end. Tiie general depth of water over this space is 
4 fathoms, bottom of sand; but the center has a shoaler 
spot of less than 3 flithoms, bottom of very hard sand, and 
there is another of less than 8 feet on the SE. end. The 
last mentioned lies 24 miles S. 26° 30' W. from the Oerro 
light, which is usually in plain sight from the deck when 
close to the shoal. The channel between this and English 
bank is 4 miles in width and 5 fathoms in depth, the bottom 
being comj)osed of sand and mud. The approaches to this 
bank are indica ted by a change from a mudd 3 ^ bottom to sand 
and mud, and finallj^ to sand, as the edges are reached. The 
depth of water around the bank is not more than 1 fathom 
greater than it is over it, except in the shoalest parts. 

There are several sand banks southward of the English Medusebank. 
and Archimedes banks, the limits and extent of which are 
unknown. One of these, named Meduse, with only IG feet 
of water over it, lies 18 miles W. by S. J S. from the south 
end of English bank, in latitude 35° 25' S., longitude 50^ 

11' W. 

The ^^arcisse bank is a cluster of shoals, on which the Narcisae bank, 
depth is three fathoms and less. These banks appear to 
be only the shoalest parts of an extensive flat, comprised 
between the parallels of 35^ 15' and 35^ 35' S., and the 
meridian of 56 ^ and 56^ 15' W. The SS. edge of this flat 
is very steep in places; the depth decreases suddenly from 
9 fathoms to 4, 3^, and 5 fathoms, and the bottom changes 
to very fine sand. 

The Astrolabe bank is a long and narrow elevation of the Astrolabe bank, 
bottom, terminating on the meridian of 56^ W., in a dan- 


104 


FRENCH AND ORTIZ BANKS. 


Frencb bank. 


Shoal. 


(Miz bank. 


gerous shoal, known as E-oaeu bank, with 15 feet over it at 
mean low water. The Astrolabe extends E. 14 miles from 
Eonen bank, on the parallel of 35^ 45' S.; its greatest width 
is three miles, the narrowest part being only a few hun¬ 
dred yards across. The general depth over the bank is 4J 
fathoms, with 8 to 10 fathoms all round the edges; within 
half a mile of Rouen bank, on which the sea nearly always 
breaks, there is a depth of 10 fathoms. 

Tbe position of the French bank is not accurately known, 
although a great number of vessels have struck on it. This 
results from its small extent, and isolation on a very even 
surface, where there is an average depth of 9 to 10 fathoms. 
The position now adopted is latitude 35° 43' S., longitude 
550 37' W. It lies nearly in the middle of a line drawn 
through East point and San Antonio cape, and, fortunately, 
out of the route of all trading-vessels. In the early part of 
the present century, when vessels entered the estuary south¬ 
ward of English bank, the French shoal was the cause of 
much anxiety; notwithstanding this, no examination of it 
has ever been made, and the position is doubtful. The depth 
of water over a space 1 mile in extent is about 9 feet, the 
bottom of very hard sand; this is surrounded by depths of 
10 and 11 fathoms. 

There are two other shoal spots in this vicinity, W'hich 
were discovered by Oyarvide when searching for French 
bank. One of these, in latitude 35° 50' S., longitude 55^ 22' 
W., is about 2 miles in diameter, and has not less than 5 
fathoms over the shoalest part, the bank being surrounded 
by a depth of 10 to 11 fathoms. The other, in latitude 35^ 
49' S., longitude56° 04' \¥., is about the same size, and has 
similar depths over it and in its vicinity as those of the pre¬ 
ceding. It will be observed that these shoals are nearly on 
the same parallel. Some writers have suggested that they 
are identical; this is very probable. 

Late English surveys go to show that our knowledge of 
the extent and depth of the Ortiz bank is very limited. It 
is impossible to give its dimensions, and equally impossible 
to state what is the depth of water on any line of bearing 
which crosses it. Fortunately, however, the western edge 
is comparatively well known; and the depth across the 
northern part is sufficiently well established to warrant its 
being crossed by vessels of 14 feet draught. The eastern 


































































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ORTIZ AND CUIRASSIER BANKS. 


105 


edge of the bank, if continuous at all, is a series of irregu¬ 
lar pockets or saccos, extending westward, and in some 
places supposed to nearly intersect the bank by narrow, 
winding channels 18 feet in depth. The western edge is 
the shoalest. When standing toward the bank from the 
westward, the soundings will change in some places from 
20 to 13 or 14 feet between two casts of the lead. The only 
guide by which dangerous depths may be avoided is the 
change in the nature of the bottom, from soft mud in the 
channel, to a mixture of sand and mud near the edges of 
the bank, and pure sand on the bank. Vessels of 12 feet 
draught frequently cross the Ortiz; but, as a rule, the pilots 
avoid it on account of dangerous patches of rocky bottom, 
which are supposed to exist in many places. It has been 
suggested, by those familiar with the navigation of the estu¬ 
ary, that the Ortiz is not a continuous plateau of shallow 
water, but a cluster of large and small banks separated by 
channels not less than 18 feet in depth. Some of the pilots 
pretend an acquaintance with such channels; one of them, 
they assert, is nearly on a direct line from Montevideo to 
Buenos x\yres. 

The shoalest part is a narrow ridge of hard sand, lying be¬ 
tween the parallels of 35^ 02' and 35® 05' S., and the me¬ 
ridians of 570 05' and 57° 09' W., 15 miles NE. by N. from 
Indio point, where there is a depth of 8 and 9 feet over a 
space 5 miles in length and 1 mile in width. The Ortiz 
bank is here only 2J miles in width; it trends to NW. by N. 
and SE. by S., and gradually deepens to the southward, 
terminating about 15 miles E. of Indio point. The bottom 
on the bank is sand, and rocks covered with sand. Along 
the edges there is a depth of 20 to 23 feet, bottom of muddy 
sand, and, as you draw away from the bank, it changes to 
soft mud. The edges are abrupt, and when crossing it 
from the eastward, at right angles to its direction, the 
soundings will decrease abruptly to 14 feet, and in places to 
10 and 12 feet, except on the shoalest part, where there is 
not more than 8 feet over a hard, sandy bottom. 

The Cuirassier bank lies nearly midway between the cuirassier bank, 
western edge of the Ortiz and the eastern edge of the bank 
bordering the southern coast. It is a plateau of sand and 
tosca, extending 3J miles SE. and N W. by three-quarters of a 
mile in width in the middle, tapering to the edges. The 


ior> 


CHICO AND COAST BANKS. 


Chico banka. 


Tides. 


Coast bank. 


depth of water over the bank is 16 and 17 feet, and around 
the edges it is 20 to 22 feet. The position is between the 
bearings NE. J K. and NNE. from the tufted "hill on Indio 
point; the southeast end is 11 miles, the northwest end 12 
miles, from the same point. The former is half a mile, the 
latter 4 miles NW. of the light-ship. 

The Chico banks area cluster of shoals of hard sand, about 
Smiles in length in a NW. and SE. direction, and lying about 
midway between the western edge of the Ortiz and the 
eastern edge of the bank fringing the southern coast. The 
depths over the space comprised within the limits of this 
bank vary from 6 to 10 feet over the shoals, and from 17 to 
20 feet between them. The shoalest spots are very steep-to 
on the northeastern sides. From the northern extremity of 
the Chico banks Magdalena church bears S. | E., distant 16 
miles, and from the shoalest spot of 6 feet the same object 
bears S. by W. J W., distant 9J miles. 

Between the Chico banks and tlie coast of Buenos Ayres 
there is a channel about 4 miles in breadth, navigable for 
vessels of 15 feet draught by steering along the coast, but it 
cannot be recommended, as the currents run strongly, and, 
the nature of the bottom changing with the depth, the sound¬ 
ings are not a sufficient guide. The channel between the 
Chico and Ortiz has a depth of 4 to 6 fathoms, which is 
carried as far as Santiago point. From thence the decrease 
is gradual to 2J fathoms on the bar of Buenos Ayres. 

In the vicinity of the Chico and Cuirassier banks, during 
fine weather, the average semi-diurnal rise and fall of the 
tide is 4 feet. The current of the ebb sets to about SE., 
with an average rate of IJ miles an hour; that of the flood to 
NW., with an average of 1 mile an hour. The level of the 
water and the set of the current depend to such an extent 
on the force and direction of the wind that no dependence 
is to be placed on the tidal hours, or rise and fall, given 
by any authority. Winds from the NW. and SE. quarters 
create currents setting in the direction of the channel; those 
from NE. and SW. cause the currents to set toward the 
banks. 

The Coast bank,from cape San Antonio to Buenos Ayres, 
fringes the shore without a break, the distance it extends 
off varying from 3 to 12 miles. In San Borombon bay it is 
composed of soft mud and muddy sand; in the vicinity of 


TIDES AND CURRENTS. 


107 


Pieclras point it is bard mud and tosca; from abreast of 
Magdalena to Buenos Ayres it is sand, or sand and mud 
mixed. 

The only remaining detached bank is a shoal of small 
extent, which lies in mid-channel between the Ortiz and 
coast banks, 11 miles SSW. of Colonio light-house, and in 
latitude 34o 38' 45" S., longitude 57o 56' 30" W. The least 
dei)th of water on this shoal is 10 feet; beyond this fact 
nothing is known. During the day the cathedral of Oolonio 
is visible from the shoal, and during the night the light may 
be seen from aloft, if the weather is clear. This danger is 
said, by the pilots, to be an accumulati6n of sand around a 
WTeck. Its small extent and isolation would indicate that 
this is the case. 


TIDES AND CURKENTS. 

The tides of the Plata are very irregular, owing to the 
peculiar shape and the shallowness of the estuary, which 
enable the prevailing or aiiproaching winds to overcome 
the natural effects of the tide wave. The influence of the 
wind is so great that those familiar with the navigation are 
enabled to foretell approaching gales from close observation 
of the rise or fall of the waters and set of the cur¬ 
rents. Sometimes during fine weather and light variable 
winds the waters of the estuary will rise or fall without any 
apparent cause, and at variance with the tidal laws. This 
is sometimes the result of the wind prevailing in the ofiing, 
or along the coast to the northward or southward j but more 
frequently it cannot be explained by any known laws or 
causes. It is generally uniform throughout the whole es¬ 
tuary. 

The rates of the tidal currents rarely exceed 1 mile an 
hour with the flood, and IJ miles an hour with the ebb j 
but the currents produced by the winds often attain a rate 
of 3J to 4 miles an hour, the mean rate being miles. 

The currents of the entrance generally follow the same 
laws as those inside. Off cape Santa Maria a set of 45 miles 
in 24 hours is commonly experienced, and as the sea is 
quickly raised by winds from the offing, while the set is 
always more or less toward the land, sailing-vessels should 
be kept a good distance off-shore when there are indications 
of a gale from the southeast. 


Dansor. 


Causes. 


Rate, 


108 


CURRENTS. 


Off Lobos island and Maldonado, just within the entrance, 
a current was experienced setting to the eastward, with the 
extraordinary rate of 5 knots an hour. A vessel was car¬ 
ried by the current, in one night, from abreast of Lobos to 
the northward of cape Castillo j and another, while in sight 
of Piedras point, experienced a current of 4 knots an hour, 
setting to SE. There is less current and more irregularity 
in the direction southward of English bank than there is 
along the northern shore. 

It is probable that these strong currents are experienced 
only in the channels, and do not extend beyond the limits 
of the bank of soundings. It has been demonstrated by 
observation that the rate of the current is not the same at all 
depths as it is on the surface. Vessels of different draughts, 
following exactly the same route, have had advantages, one 
over the other, which could not have been the result of sail 
or steam power, and can be attributed to no other cause 
than that of strata of currents, setting with different rates 
in the same direction, or in opposite directions. 

During the mouths of March, April, and May, the rivers 
discharge such an immense volume of water into the estu¬ 
ary that there is a sensible difference in the average level, 
and a slight increase in the currents setting out. At this 
time floating islets, named camalotes by the natives, are fre¬ 
quently met with in the estuary, and sometimes a short dis¬ 
tance outside. 

Ground-log. It is impossible to give exact information as to the rate 
and direction of the currents produced by winds from every 
direction in the various localities; but there are certain 
general laws, which have been arrived at by different au¬ 
thorities, that will enable the navigator to guard against 
danger. There is, however, one unfailing method of ascer¬ 
taining the exact set and rate of currents, which is accessi¬ 
ble to all, in shallow waters, such as the Plata. Every com¬ 
petent seaman is familiar with the ground-log and its use; 
therefore it is only necessary here to impress them with the 
importance of using it frequently, twice an hour at least, 
while within the estuary, (and in the entrance wherever the 
depth of water will permit,) during the night, and in thick 
weather when no marks are visible. 

Currents The pilots assert that gales from the northward, or winds 
caused by winds. NW. Found by N. to E., cause the waters to fall and 































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CURRENTS. 


TOD 


the current to set to SE. and S.; and that pamperos cause 
the waters to rise and the current to flow to NW., W., or 
SW., according to the direction of the channels. 

Dupirier states that easterly winds produce a rise through¬ 
out the whole extent of the estuary ; northerly winds cause 
the waters to fall on the northern coast and rise on the 
southern. Winds from W. to N W. cause a fall of the waters 
everywhere above the Ortiz bank; but below Colonio the 
waters fall on the southern coast and rise on the northern 
with these winds. The rate of the current, and the rise or 
fall of the waters, are always in proportion to the force and 
duration of the wind. 

Winds from NNE. to NNW. cause the lowest water. The 
current produced by these winds flows out strongest along 
the southern coast, but it rarely exceeds three knots an 
hour; and on the northern coast it is inconsiderable. 

Pamperos cause a rapid rise in Montevideo bay and along 
the adjoining coast, which lasts only during the first part of 
the gale, and is followed by a strong current setting to tlie 
southward round San Jose and Brava points. 

When the wind remains for some time in the NE. quarter 
the current sets to the westward along the northern coast, 
while it is setting to the eastward along the southern coast, 
where the water is falling; and during the time the wind 
remains between SE. and IS^E. the current sets to the west¬ 
ward past Montevideo without increasing the depth of 
water below this point, while it fills up the river above the 
banks. 

If the waters rise for a longer time than the flood should Remarks, 
last during a calm or light winds from N W. to SW., it may 
be inferred that the wind will come out from ilE. to SE., 
and probably already prevails from this quarter in the off¬ 
ing. When the current is observed to set to the westward 
along the northern shore of the estuary a northeasterly 
wind may be expected. The current sets into the entrance 
and the waters rise before approaching gales from the SE. 
and SW. in proportion to the force and duration of the 
wind. The difference of level produced by these winds has 
reached twenty feet on several occasions. An approaching 
SE. gale will cause a rise of the waters in the roads of 
Buenos Ayres; and this is often observed twenty-four hours 
before the wind arrives. In Montevideo bay the waters 


110 


Tides at 
nos Ayres. 


TIDES AT BUENOS AYEES. 

will rise for many hours, and sometimes a whole day, before 
the pampero is felt. 

Bue- The tides are more regular off Buenos Ayres than in any 
other part of the estuary. From a series of observations by 
Lieutenant Thoyon, French navy, it appears that the mean 
duration of the flood is 5^ 21*" j that of the ebb 7^ S'”. 
The time of high water at new moon is 7^ 45'", and of low 
water 2^ the mean of the rise and fall is 9J feet. When 
the wind prevails between NE. and SE. the commencement 
of the flood and also of the ebb is in advance of the mean 
hour, and the flood lasts longer than usual. The flood also 
commences in advance when the wind is from NW. to SW., 
and the ebb when the wind is from to W. The latter is 
retarded by SW. winds, but the duration of the tide is about 
the same as usual. Regular tides occur with the wind from 
all directions, but most often when it is moderate between 
N. and E. The wind exercises a much greater influence oh 
the rise and fall than it does on the hour of the tide. 
Winds from NE. to SE. facilitate the entrance of the tide- 
wave into the Plata, and cause a risej those from NE. to 
SW., round by W., have the oi)posite effect. The difference 
of level rarely exceeds feetj but a continuation of the 
wind from any quarter will occasionally produce extraordi¬ 
nary differences. From the 20th to the 27th of August, 
1839, the level of the water rose from about 20 to 30 .feet, 
with the wind from the eastward. Between the 29th and 
31st of July, 1838, it fell from about 27 feet to 10 feet—the 
two dates giving a mean difference of 20 feet. It took six 
days with strong SE. winds to raise the wat®r from 20 to 30 
feet, and four days with strong westerly winds to cause it 
to fall from 27 feet to 10 feet. 

Monthly observations have shown the smallest difference 
in level to be about 6 feet, the greatest 18 feet, and the 
mean difference about 9 feet. Several extraordinary falls of 
the river have taken place in consequence of heavy gales 
from jS^W. to SW. In 1792, a gale from the SW. for three 
days left the upper part of the Plata quite dry. Nearly the 
same thing occurred during the war of independence. The 
Spanish vessels blockading Buenos Ayres grounded in the 
bay, and were attacked by artillery hauled out on the city 
bank; but they were saved by a rapid rise of the waters, 
which returned so fast, that before the pieces could be got 


WINDS AND CLIMATE. 


Jll 


on shore the water was above the horses’ heads, and some of 
the guns had to be abandoned. 

It isliigh water, full and change, in San Clemente anchor- Tides in san 
age at the mean difference of level is feet; the flood 
sets to NW., the ebb to SE. 

At Kodeo anchorage, it is high water, fall and change, at 
101^45-; thedifferenceof level isflfeet; the flood sets to X., 
the ebb to S. Off Piedras point it is high water, full and 
change, at IP^ 45'"; the difference of the level is G feet; the 
flood sets to NXE., the ebb to SSW. 

From Paloma port to cape Santa Maria the tides 3^j>0 T i d es of the 
pretty regular, and the difference of level is about 5 feet. In 
Maldonado bay the greatest rise, in ordinary weather, is be¬ 
tween 5 and G feet; the flood sets to SE. and the ebb to NW. 

When the wind prevails from the northward there is less 
water on this coast, while southerly winds produce a rise of 
2 feet or more. The currents are irregular; they generally 
follow the direction of the wind, and sometimes they indi¬ 
cate from which quarter the wind may be expected. 

The current of the Uruguay united to that of the Parana Current fron» 

• ^ ^ , . the rivers. 

acquires great strength, and runs with such rapidity in the 
vicinity of Martin Garcia island that the eastern channel 
has received the name of Infierno. This current is divided 
into two branches in the vicinity of the Homos islands; that 
which follows along the northern coast is increased by the 
waters of the Rossario, Santa Lucia, and other rivers, es¬ 
pecially after gales from the southward, which prevent their 
customary discharge. When it reaches Brava point and 
Flores island, strong and dangerous eddies are produced. 

The other branch runs along the southern coast with much 
less force, and gradually loses its identity. 

WINDS AND CLIMATE. 

One of the distinctive features of the climate of the Plata winds, 
is the frequent and rapid changes of the weather. The gen¬ 
eral changes in the direction of the wind are in accordance 
with the law for the southern hemisphere—that is, from right 
to left, or from N. round by W., and S. to E. 

During the summer months, from September to March, Summer, 
easterly winds prevail. The atmosphere is generally clear 
overhead, but thick and misty about the horizon. The pre¬ 
vailing wind in the offing is from NE., and as the estuary 


112 


VIRAZON. 


Virazon. 


is approached it changes gradually to the eastward. With¬ 
in the estuary during this season a gentle breeze sets in 
from SE. between 11 a. m. and 1 p. rn. j this gradually fresh¬ 
ens and veers, being the strongest from E.to EN‘E. between 3 
and 5 p. m. From this time it falls gradually lighter, and 
continues to veer, blows from the northward during the 
evening, and usually dies out about midnight, followed in 
the early morning by gentle airs from the westward, or 
calms, and flaws from all directibns, which continue until the 
breeze again sets in from the SE. quarter during the fore¬ 
noon. This wind is called the virazon. Whenever it fails, 
or light winds from and NW. continue up to sunrise, the 
weather becomes unsettled, and heavy squalls may be ex¬ 
pected from the southwest. Sometimes the weather will 
continue fine for two or three days, but cloudy, rainy, and 
squally weather may be expected to follow a discontinu¬ 
ance of the virazon. Should the wind settle in the north¬ 
ward, a continuance of rainy, squally weather may be de- 
l)ended upon, and the longer this lasts, or the greater the 
fall of rain, the harder it will blow from the southward 
when the change occurs. The latter invariably clears the 
atmosphere, and ends up in a return of the virazon. 

During the hottest months the NW. winds often blow 
very fresh between 9. a. m. and 2 p. m., and cause an op¬ 
pressively hot, dry atmosphere, which is highly charged 
with electricity, and very injurious and uu[>leasant. These 
winds often continue for days, and are invariably followed 
by the summer pampero, or heavy SW. squalls of wind and 
rain, accompanied by thunder and lightning. The barom¬ 
eter continues to fall, while they last, in proportion to their 
strength. Winds from the southward bring cool and agree¬ 
able weather. There is, however, a marked difference be¬ 
tween the southeast and southwest winds—the former are 
cool and damp, the latter are cool and dry, producing a re¬ 
freshing atmosphere, and while they last the climate of the 
Plata can hardly be surpassed. 

The pilots assert that the changes of the moon produce 
changes in the weather; experience and observation do not 
bear out their views, and here, as elsewhere, the influence 
of the moon on the weather is very questionable. 

Gales from the southwest are of rare occurrence durinsr 
this season. The roads of Buenos Ayres are worse during 
the summer months on account of the sea which is pro- 



















































































































































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WINDS. 


113 


duced by the prevailing easterly winds. Communication 
with the shore is difficult during the day, and there is often 
considerable delay in loading and discharging cargoes. 

This season is the best in Montevideo bay and roads, 
where the easterly winds do not produce much sea, or other¬ 
wise interfere with the communication between the vessels 
and the shore. 

The following extract from the remark-book of a U. S. 
naval vessel on this station will serve to indicate the gene¬ 
ral character of the summer winds in Montevideo bay: 
“ During the 7G days and 17 hours of our anchorage in this 
port, comprised between November 24, 1870, and February 
28,1871, the wind blew from the SE. quarter during 686 hours, 
from theNE. quarter during469 hours, and from E. during 183 
hours; making a total of 1,338 hours or (74) seventy-four per 
cent, of the time that the wind was from the eastward, and 
chiefly between SE. and NE. Of the remaining 503 hours, the 
wind was from the SW. quarter during 145 hours, from the 
NW. quarter during 120 hours, and from W. during26 hours, 
making a total of 291 hours of westerly winds, which came 
chiefly from NNW. to SS W. The remaining 212 hours were 
divided as follows: the wind was from S. during 51 hours, N. 
during 79 hours, variable during 44 hours, and it was calm 
during 38 hours. This clearly indicates that the prevailing 
wind for December, January, and February is easterly, be¬ 
tween NE. and SE. Whenever there was no unusual dis¬ 
turbance of the atmosphere, the breeze would set in about 
mid-day from SE.; gradually veering and freshening, it 
would reach a maximum between 3 and 5 p. m., from E. to 
ENE.; from this time to midnight it would gradually die 
out while hauling to the northward. Between midnight 
and sunrise it was not uncommon to have a gentle breeze 
from N. to NW., but this was not regular enough to be 
called a land-breeze or marked wind. It was also noticed 
that whenever these light northerly winds lasted up to sun¬ 
rise, they were generally followed by a stiff breeze from NW. 
between 9 a. m. and 2p. m., causing a hot, dry, and disagree¬ 
able atmosphere; this was usually followed by the summer 
pampero or strong SW. squall, which rarely lasted more 
than 4 hours, and was invariably presaged by a fall of the 
barometer while the NW. wind was blowing, and a rapid 
rise about 1 hour before the SW. wind arrived.” 

8 R P 


114 


PAMPEROS. 


Winter. 


Pamperos. 


During the winter, from March to September, the prevail¬ 
ing wind olf the entrance to the Plata is from W. to S W.; 
within the estuary the wind prevails from the westward, but 
ofteuer from the northward of W. than from the southward. 
During this season, when the weather is fine, the wind veers 
round the compass as in summer j but northerly winds 
bring drizzling rains, lightning, and thunder. Southerly 
winds bring hail, when they first commence; and easterly 
winds are accompanied by an abundance of rain. 

Whenever the wind veers in accordance with the law for 
the southern hemisphere, fine weather may be expected; 
but when it backs round, disagreeable weather and strong 
winds may be expected. Southerly winds in winter blow in 
squalls which are lasting, but not as violent as the summer 
squalls from this direction, although these are of short dura¬ 
tion. The winter is the best season in the roads of Buenos 
Ayres; then the prevailing westerly winds blow from the land 
and the sea is generally smooth enough for easy communica¬ 
tion. Squalls from the southwest or pamperos prevail from 
June to October; during this season the winds are variable, 
and calms, squalls, and rain are most frequent. When an 
easterly wind is accom])anied with squalls it is generally fol¬ 
lowed by a westerly wind with squalls, and vice versa. The 
weather generally remains unsettled until the wind veers 
in accordance with the general law. 

The bad weather of the Plata sets in with the wind from 
SW. or SE. All winds from the southwest are called pam¬ 
peros, from their blowing over pampas before reaching 
the coast. They may be divided into two classes, the gen¬ 
eral and the local pampero. The local pampero is of short 
duration, and when the wind blows fresh the atmosphere is 
generally clear. The general pampero is accompanied with 
rain and squalls; it originates in the Cordilleras, passes 
over the pampas^ generally lasts from two to five days, and 
is named pampero sucio by the natives. 

Pamperos generally commence with a squall from the 
westward, which advances in a heavy, dark mass of clouds ; 
other squalls, accompanied with rain, hail, and thunder, gen¬ 
erally follow the first, but the sky soon becomes clear, the 
atmosphere cool, the wind veers to 8W. or SSW., and blows 
a steady fresh breeze. Sometimes the squalls are very vio¬ 
lent, but as a rule they are no more to be dreaded than 


PAMPEROS. 


11 


squalls in general. It is asserted that pamperos do not 
^ blow with as much violence at the present time as formerly. 
This statement is absurd, and arises from the well-known 
disposition to exaggerate danger that was shown by nearly 
all the early navigators frequenting the coast of South 
America. 

Pamperos are met with between 30^ S. and 50^ S., but 
they are not as distinctly marked outside of the estuary as 
they are within it and in the ofiing between cape Santa 
Maria and cape San Antonio. Within these limits the follow¬ 
ing indications, either combined or separate, serve to mark 
their approach : 

An interruption of the regular diurnal breezes ; a continu¬ 
ation of northerly winds accompanied with oppressive heat; 
fresh NE. winds, followed by unsettled weather, then by a 
N.wind, which freshens and hauls to KW.,accomi)anied with 
haze or light rains. Should the horizon be cloudy, with 
lightning in the southwest,, a pampero is almost certain to 
follow. A steady fall of the barometer, sometimes for several 
hours, and even days, before they arrive j a rise of the waters 
of the estuary; the presence of large numbers of insects, 
and a fine white filament in the air; and the extreme clear¬ 
ness of the atmosphere, which admits of objects being seen 
a long distance. Violent gusts of wind have been known 
to precede a pampero without any of the above indications 
of its approach; but these are of very rare occurrence. 

As soon as the pampero commences, the atmosphere be¬ 
comes cool. It lasts from 2 to 10 hours in summer and 2 
to 5 days in winter. Pamperos are less frequent but more 
violent in summer. During the winter the wind often hauls 
to S. and SE. and continues to blow in squalls, accompanied 
with rain and mist. When the pampero commences with 
a clear sky it lasts longer than when it commences with 
rain and cloudy weather. If, after the pampero has com¬ 
menced, the rain continues and the wind veers to S. and SE., 
it will last a long time, and the weather will not become fine 
until the wind again veers to the westward. This change is 
sometimes accompanied with violent squalls of wind and 
rain, similar to those with which the pampero usually (;om- 
mences. The end of a pampero is usually presaged by a 
lull about sunset or sunrise. If the wind freshens again, it 
usually indicates a change to another quarter, but generally 


Indications. 




SOUTHEAST GALES. 


11 (> 


the end follows after a lull; the wind hauls to the westward, 
the sky clears and there is a return of the regular breezes. 
There is usually a heavy gale about the end of August in 
the Plata j within the last ten years there have beeu more 
wrecks about this time than at any other. 

SE’gales. The gales from SE. are the most dangerous in the 
Plata, because they blow directly on the northern coast, 
and are usually accompanied by rain and thick weather; 
besides this, they produce dangerous currents and a very 
high sea. These gales are presaged by a high and rising 
barometer, thick atmosphere, incessant lightning, a red sky 
at sunrise, a rise of the waters, and very often by a rapid 
current, which is strongest beyond the Ortiz bank. Vessels in 
the estuary caught in one of these gales, and unable to 
reach a port, should anchor, if possible, to leeward of some 
bank, but at all events on a mud-bottom, and far enough to 
windward of any danger to permit of dragging. If you are 
outside of the estuary, the vessel will be set rapidly toward 
cape Castillo, where you may find shelter on the northern 
side of the cape j otherwise you should stand off shore, for 
it is these winds which have caused nearly all of the wrecks 
off the entrance to the Plata. 

Barometer. The barometer usually indicates the changes of weather* 
Here, as elsewhere, it is the rise and fiill of the mercury, and 
not the actual height, which must be noted, for the oscilla¬ 
tions are similar with winds from a different direction. The 
general rule is that the barometer rises with easterly and 
falls with westerly winds; but with winds from any direc¬ 
tion it falls when the weather is squally. 

The annual range of the barometer is from 30.6 inches to 
29.3 inches. The maximum is reached in August or Septem¬ 
ber. The minimum varies from January to June. 

When the weather is fine and settled, the mercury falls a 
little before the easterly winds set in •, and as soon as they 
are settled it rises again, and continues to rise slowly until 
the wind veers to the westward, when there is another 
slight depression if the wind is to return to the eastward. 
Stormy and unsettled weather will cause a fall of the mer¬ 
cury. If the wind is from NE. to SE., it will rise as soon as 
the weather becomes settled, and continue to rise while 
these winds lastj but if the barometer continues to fall and 



•. •*! 



















































































































































































































117 


TEMPERATURE—FOG, HAZE, AND RAIN. 

the horizon is cloudy, with lightning in the SW., a pam¬ 
pero may be expected. 

The fall ot the barometer which precedes bad weather is 
more gradual than the rise when the weather becomes set¬ 
tled. The diurnal oscillation is well marked during con¬ 
tinuous fine weather. The maximum height is reached at 
sunrise; it commences to fail about 9 a- m. The minimum 
is reached between 12^ and 4^ p. m., and the rise commences 
again at sunset. The height of the barometer is generally 
in inverse ratio to the temperature; the greatest height 
occurs with southerly winds, the minimum with winds from 
the northward. The mean of the former is 30.5 inches, the 
mean of the latter is 29.5 inches. 

The mean annual temperature of the Plata is about 64^ p. j 
but the changes are often very rapid. The thermometer 
has been known to rise from 00° F. at 9’^ a. m. to 90*^ F. by 3^ 
p. m., and fall from 96° F. at noon to 54^ F. at midnight. 
The lowest temperature of the Plata recorded in the log of 
the U. S. S. Portsmouth, during a cruise of three years on 
this station, is 37° F., the highest 103^ F. The climate is 
healthy, and these extremes of heat and cold are not of 
frequent occurrence. As a rule the extremes are 32^ to'SS^ 
F., the former occurring in July, the latter in February. The 
hottest weather occurs when the dry northerly winds blow, 
the coolest when the wind comes out from the southward 
and blows fresh with a clear sky. Frost is of very rare 
occurrence, and snow is unknown. The mean tempearture of 
Buenos Ayres is 2^ to 3^ higher than that of Montevideo. 

Thick fogs are of frequent occurrence during the months 
of July, August, and September. They are more dense 
between the entrance and the Ortiz bank than in the head 
of the estuary. At Buenos Ayres they seldom last more 
than two or three hours. 

Eain falls in all seasons, but the greatest rain-fall is in May 
and October, and it is more frequent during the night than 
by day. The distribution of rain is unequal, aud the sev¬ 
eral provinces of the Plata often suffer very much for want 
of it and by having too much at a time. 

The following is the mean per year from observations 
covering 15 years: 74 days of continuous rain ; 36 days of 
squall3' weather, with rain; 135 days of clear sky, and 120 
days of unsettled weather. 


T Lermouieter. 


Fog and haze. 


Rain. 


118 


0 


Dow8 


Thu nder 
lightning. 


Mirage. 


Land-fall. 


NAVIGATION OF THE ESTUARY. 

As the difference between tbe temperature of day and 
niglit is generally very considerable, the vapor dissolved 
during the day is condensed during the night and precipi¬ 
tated in dew, sometimes not unlike a drizzling rain in its 
effects. 

and Thunder and lightning, particularly the latter, are of very 
frequent occurrence, but the damage resulting from light¬ 
ning is not in proportion to its frequency and vividness. 

There is a great deal of refraction in the Plata, and still 
more in its tributaries; objects above the visible horizon 
disappear, and are replaced by others below it. In this way 
the cerros of San Juan, distant about 36 miles from Buenos 
Ayres, are frequently seen from this city, although only 
between 430 and 450 feet in height. This only occurs dur¬ 
ing a very clear atmosphere, and it is an indication of ap¬ 
proaching bad weather. This extraordinary refraction not 
only takes place near the horizon, but also many degrees 
above it. Captain Mouchez gives an instance of a fog 
rising during the time he was taking observations, which 
hid the sun but slightly, leaving the limbs clearly visible. 
In calculating the hour angles and comparing the different 
series, it was found that the refraction regularly increased 
with the fog, and that at the last observation, when the 
altitude was 31°, it was higher by V W than that given by 
the tables. 

NAVIGATION OF THE ESTUARY. 

The laud-fall for entering the Plata does not present as 
great difficulties as is generally supposed, provided the 
mariner takes advantage of every opportunity for obtaining 
the latitude, makes continuous and frequent soundings, and, 
combining the two, proceeds on his course with prudence, 
but with confidence and decision. Very many shipwrecks 
have occurred near the entrance from neglecting to take 
every advantage of opportunities of ascertaining the lati¬ 
tude during night and day. The weather changes suddenly, 
and often, without warning, a cloudless sky and horizon will 
become obscured, when no observations can be made. 

During NE. winds the'^best laud-fall is cape Castillo; 
during S. or SE. winds the parallel of Lobos is the best on 
which to approach the entrance. If you are set to the 
southward by a continuation of NE. gales and a northerly 


NAVIOATION OF THE ESTUARY. 


119 


current, and the latitude can be obtained with any degree 
of accuracy, the entrance may be approached to the south¬ 
ward of English bank; but this should be avoided whenever 
it is possible to gain the northern chauiiel. Approaching 
on the parallel of Lobos, the first soundings will be about 
90 to 95 fathoms on the meridian of 52^ 25' W.; from thence 
steer to the westward, so as to pass about 30 miles south¬ 
ward of cape Santa Maria, where the depth will have de¬ 
creased to between 18 and 20 fathoms. The Plata bank 
will have been crossed, and the changes of depth and the 
character of the bottom will have indicated the position 
before you have reached this meridian. Allowance must 
always be made for a current, whatever the direction of the 
wind, and particularly when it is blowing from the SE., for 
^hen there is always a current setting directly toward the 
coast. If the vessel has been set to the southward, the 
depth will decrease slowly and the bottom will be fine gray 
sand until you reach the meridian of Castillo, where it will 
become mixed with black sand. If the vessel is set to the 
northward, the bottom will change to sand and broken shells, 
and the depth decrease rapidly. As long as you remain on 
the parallel of Lobos, the depth will decrease gradually and 
regularly, and the bottom will change to mud and sand. 
Muddy bottom is a sure indication of being in the fair-way 
to the channels. 

Many navigators who are ignorant of the existence of the 
Plata bank, finding the depth change suddenly to 10 or 12 
fathoms, believe themselves too near the laud and stand off 
shore ; this is often the cause of great delay, and sometimes 
disaster. If the position of the vessel is uncertain and this 
change occurs, you should steer NVV., sounding as rapidly 
as possible. If you are on the bank, the depth will increase 
rapidly to 13, IG, and 20 fathoms, and the lead will indicate 
a change in the bottom to sand and mud, sometimes pure 
mud, as soon as the fair-way is reached. In this case the 
course should again be changed to the westward, so as to 
keep over a muddy bottom. If the depth continues to de¬ 
crease while steering NW., it is an indication of being too 
near to the coast or to English bank, and no time is to be 
lost in standing off shore. There are many localities where 
the depth increases abruptly; these are known to the coast¬ 
ers as ;posos^ and should give no uneasiness to the mariner. 


120 


FEOM LOBOS TO FLORES. 


From 

Flores. 


The quality of the bottom will be found the best guide in 
such cases. Whenever the position is uncertain and stormy 
weather is approaching, select an anchorage and remain in 
it until there is a favorable change. 

Lobosto During clear weather the land and lights will enable you 
to follow the channels without further directions; but during 
thick weather the land becomes the only guide, and the fol¬ 
lowing observations may be found serviceable. Having 
passed Lobos island, steer for the middle of the channel 
between Flores island and English bank, sounding rapidly 
and hauling to the northward or southward as the bottom 
changes to sandy mud or the mud becomes hard; the former 
indicates an approach to English bank, the latter an ap¬ 
proach to the northern coast. Abreast of Negra point the 
depth in mid channel is 12 fathoms; between Flores and 
English bank it is 7 to 8 fathoms. Shells mixed with the 
mud is an indication of being too near to Flores, and the 
greater the proportion of shells the nearer you are to the 
island. In proceeding to the westward, the water will shoal 
gradually and the bottom will remain soft mud as long as 
you keep in the channel. Many instances are recorded of 
vessels having reached the anchorage off Montevideo with¬ 
out having seen the land or lights; but as a rule, a vessel 
caught in thick and threatening weather, when the position 
is doubtful, should be anchored to await a favorable change. 

The safe limits of the boards for vessels beating up from 
Lobos to Flores are the parallels of point Negra for the 
northern and sandy bottom for the southern. The deepest 
water is where the mud is softest, which is nearly in the 
middle of the channel. The depth decreases very irregu¬ 
larly when standing toward the outlying shoals of English 
bank, but the bottom always changes to muddy sand, sand, 
and sometimes mud, sand, and gravel. Stiff muddy bottom 
is found north of the parallel of Flores when approaching 
it from the eastward. The channel northward of Flores 
should be avoided during thick weather. 

There is no danger to be feared between Flores and Monte¬ 
video, south of the parallel of Flores, until you reach the 
edge of Archimedes bank, where the soundings give ample 
warning. Brava point should not be approached nearer 
than 1 mile, where the depth is fathoms. 















































































































































































FROM MONTEVIDEO TO BUENOS AYRES. 


121 


The light-ships iuteiuled to mark the Paiiela rocks and 
Ohico and Indio banks are of great assistance in proceeding 
to Bnenos Ayres. The mariner is warned that these ves¬ 
sels sometimes break adrift and frequently drag their an¬ 
chors. Until recently the lights exhibited from them were 
so badly attended to that they frequently went out, and 
when they were burning could easily be mistaken for the 
lights of vessels at anchor. Efforts have been made to rem¬ 
edy these faults, and recent reports indicate a change for 
the better. Vessels of over 15 feet draught should be in 
charge, of a i>ilot under all circumstances; those of less 
draught may be navigated by the master during fine 
weather or with a fair wind. With some exceptions the 
pilots are unreliable and need watching; the master should 
quietly and unoftensively observe every change of the course 
and in the soundings, obtain a new departure whenever 
possible, and be ready to resume charge of the vessel should 
such a step be necessary. 

The north channel is seldom used by any but coasters and 
river-craft, and is not suitable for vessels drawing more than 
14 feet. Assuming 15 feet depth of water at ordinary stages to 
be the limit beyond which no vessel navigating this channel 
may pass, the route to be followed by steamers and sailing- 
vessels with a fair wind is as follows: Stand out of Monte¬ 
video bay until the cathedral steeple bears E. by N.; then 
change the course to W. by S., keeping the cathedral on the 
opposite bearing until the Pauela light ship is seen. If the 
current has been correctly estimated the light ship will bear 
W. by N., distant 5 miles. From this position steer WXW. 
for 34 miles, or until the extremity of Jesus Maria point 
bears NE. This course leads across the tail of the Santa 
Lucia flat,in not less than 17 feet, one mile southward of the 
supposed position of Gregorio bank, and the same distance 
from the spit which makes out to the eastward from the 
bank fronting Jesus Maria point. When the extremity of 
Santa Maria point bears NNE., and the depth is less than 
4 fathoms, it indicates that the position is either to the 
northward or southward of the route recommended. In the 
latter case the land will a|)pear distant, and the bottom will 
be very soft mud; in the former the mud will be sticky, 
and the land will appear near. Vessels drawing more than 
8 feet should immediately change the course to SSW., 


From Montevi- 
d e o to Buenos 
Ayves. 




North channel. 


122 


NORTH CHANNEL. 


Beating. 


until the water deepens to 4 fathoms, sons to avoid entering 
the cul de sac formed by the spit and th(‘, bank. When the 
sandy point of Jesus Maria bears NE., distant 3J miles, the 
depth at mean low water is 4 fathoms. From this position 
the course should be changed to FTW. J N. for 18.^ miles, 
or until the summit of the remarkable flat down west of 
the entrance to the Gufre river bears NISTE. Along this 
course the depth will remain above 20 feet until you are 
abreast of the entrance to the Pavon, when it will shoal 
from 22 feet to 17, 16, 15, and finally to 14 feet during low 
water. The shoalest part of the north channel is comprised 
between the Pavon and Rossario rivers. If the tide is low, 
vessels drawing 14 feet should be anchored off Pavon point 
to await a rise before proceeding farther. From the position 
off the Gufre the course is W. for 13 miles, or until Sauce 
point bears N. The depth will increase 2 or 3 feet when 
abreast of Rossario point, and continue above 16 feet dur¬ 
ing the remaining part of this route. When abreast of 
Sauce point change the course to W. by S. for 12 J miles, or 
until the Golonia light-house is sighted and brought to bear 
W. by IS”. J K. when distant 8J miles. The position will 
then be 2 miles S. of the Pipas rocks, and the course may 
be changed to W. by N. ^ N. for the light-house of Golonia. 

The distance from Montevideo to Golonia by tliis route is 
92 miles. The courses given lead in sight of the land during 
the whole time, and the mariner should be able to verify 
the position by bearings of the prominent objects. Sailing- 
vessels beating through the channel should endeavor to keep 
the land in sight, and when standing toward the coast atten¬ 
tion should be given to the change of bottom from mud to 
sand. The latter indicates a near approach to dangerous 
depths. The limits of the northern board between Espinillo 
point and the western edge of the Santa Lucia bank is with 
the summit of the cerro of Montevideo bearing E. by S. 
The southern edge of the Jesus Maria spit is very steep, the 
depth changing abruptly from 4J and 5 fathoms to 10 feet. 
In this vicinity there is no good mark for the limit of the 
northern board, for the soundings are very irregular, vary¬ 
ing from 22 to 30 feet between two casts of the lead. But 
the space comprised between the 18-feet limit to the west¬ 
ward and the 24-feet limit to the eastward is at least 8 
miles in width } therefore it would be prudent, when standing 


NORTH CHANNEL. 


t 


12:^ 


to the eastward, to tack when the water deepens to 4 
fathoms, and, when standing westward, to tack when it 
shoals to 18 feet, until you weather Jesus Maria point. The 
soundings are for mean low water, and allowance should be 
made for the state of the tide. Hav^ing cleared the spit, the 
safe limit of each board for vessels drawing 14 feet is when 
the depth decreases to 18 feet, until you are abreast of Pavon 
point. There are two exceptions to this rule. One is when 
standing in toward the highest part of the intervening coast, 
where, in a space of 1 mile, the depth decreases abruptly 
from 22 to 11 and 12 feet; the other is when standing in for 
Pavon point and the coast northward as far as the river, 
where the decrease is very abrupt, from 22 to 3 feet in the 
distance of three-quarters of a mile. 

Between the Pavon river and Pipas rocks the quality of 
the bottom does not afford any indication of an api)roach to 
dangerous depths. This place appears to be composed of a ^ 
mixture of mud and sand, but westward of Rossario point the 
former predominates, while the soundings are above 14 feet. 
The space for beating between the Rio Oufre and Colonia 
averages 3 miles in breadth. The limit of the southern 
board is when the water shoals to 14 feet; the limit of the 
northern board varies. When standing in toward the 
Oufre river and the high land to the westward, tack when 
the water shoals to 14 feet. When standing in toward 
Rossario point, go in stays promptly as soon as the water 
deepens to 18 or 19 feet, for the bank is steep-to. Abreast of 
Sauce point, do not stand to the northward in less than 16 feet 
depth ; abreast of Artilleria point there is a space of deeper 
water, and the safe limit for the northern board is 18 feet. 
The Pipas rocks are very dangerous when the tide is high, 
and it is advisable to stand well to the southward. When 
approaching them the safe limit of the northern board is 
with Artilleria point bearing E. by N. ^ X., or with Oolonia 
light house bearing W. by K. Having cleared these, stand 
in toward the coast. The channel for vessels drawing 14 feet 
becomes only 1 mile in width between the northern edge of 
Fisher’s bank and the coast, but in this space there are 
many objects which are readily recognized, and the position 
is easily ascertained. 

It would be prudent for vessels beating through the north 
channel without a pilot to be anchored during the night. 


124 


MIDDLE AND SOUTH CHANNELS. 


M i (1 die cliau- 
iiel. 


South channel. 


The Middle channel is suitable only for vessels of 10 feet 
draught, and is the most direct route between Montevideo 
and Buenos Ayres. This route consists in making a N. 80^ 
W. course from the Pauela light ship to the guard-ship of 
Buenos Ayres. The distance is 106 miles. This course 
leads across the Ortiz bank, passes within sight of the Chico 
light ship 1J miles beyond the range of the Oolonia light, 
and close to the dangerous isolated shoal or wreck between 
Oolonia and Lara points. The soundings will decrease 
gradually from 24 to 12 feet. The latter, the least depth 
known to exist on this line of bearing, is found when you are 
on the meridian of the Chico light ship. From this position 
the water will deepen to more than 3 fathoms, until the flat of 
Buenos Ayres is reached. 

The South channel is nowhere less than 19 feet in depth 
at mean low water, until the flats of Buenos Ayres are 
reached, or until the Guard-ship bears W. distant 5 miles. 
Vessels drawing over 16 feet should stand to the westward 
from Montevideo roads until the Cerro light bear^ NE. J E. 
and the Panela light ship ISTW. by W. J W. In this position 
the depth will be 28 feet at mean low water. Taking 
a departure from this point, the course to be made good 
is SW. f AV. for 36 miles, when the Indio light-ship will 
bear NW. J N., distant 15 miles. The Cerro light, or the 
mount itself, will remain in sight at least 17 miles from the 
point of departure, if the weather is clear; and so long as 
it remains in sight, the route should be modified so as to 
keep it on a NE. f E. bearing. The depth will decrease 
gradually from 28 feet to 19 or 20 feet, with the Cerro light 
bearing NE. | E., distant 25 miles; thence to the end of this 
course the depth at mean low-water should vary between 
19 and 21 feet. There is no mark for ascertaining when the 
distance has been made, except a change in the nature of 
bottom from mud to ooze; but if the weather is clear, Pie- 
dras point should be seen from aloft, bearing SW., distant 
9J miles; at all events, it should be seen before the sound¬ 
ings decrease below 18 feet. Shohld the depth decrease to 
18 feet before theland or the light-ship is sighted, the course 
should be changed at once to the northward of W. to sight 
the latter. It should be borne in mind that the currents 
generally set diagonally across the route to be followed up to 
this point. So long as the Cerro remains in sight, it affords 


























































































































































































































































SOUTH OHANNIOL. 


1 


an excellent guide for ascertaining their general direction. 
When lost sight of, th-e following may serve to indicate 
whether or not the prescribed route has been followed: 
Should the depth increase to 23 or 24 feet, and remain about 
the same for a space of 8 or 10 miles, and then shoal to 
21 or 19 feet, it is an indication of having been set to the 
northward, and Indio point light-ship will be sighted bear¬ 
ing to the southward of W. Should the depth continue 
to increase above 24 feet, and the bottom become mud and 
sand or mud and ooze sooner than expected, it is an indi¬ 
cation of having been set to the southward j and if the same 
course is held, the water will shoal to less than 18 feet, and 
the bottom become a mixture of mud and tosca before any 
land is seen. 

Vessels drawing 16 feet may steer direct for Indio point 
light ship, making good a W. by S. f S. course for a dis¬ 
tance of 40 miles from the point of departure. On this 
route the Gerro light should bear ENE. when lost sight of, 
distant 25 miles; and Indio lightship will be sighted before 
reaching the tail of the Ortiz bank, which will be crossed in 
not less than 17 feet at mean low water. The light ship 
should not be brought to bear to the southward of W. 
when approaching it from the eastward; and it would be 
well to pass close to the eastward of it, so as to obtain a 
new point of departure for the channel above. 

The course to be made good from a position about a mile 
NE. of the Indio light ship is NW. for a distance of 30 
miles. During the day the church and village of Magda¬ 
lena will be sighted from aloft about the time that Indio 
light ship is lost sight of. These objects will remain in sight 
until the Chico light-ship is seen. With these two marks in 
sight there should be no diflficult^^ in keeping clear of the 
Chico bank. The depth of water will increase gradually 
from 21 feet when abreast of the Indio light-ship to 36 feet 
when Chico light ship bears W. distant 3 miles. In this 
space the current generally sets parallel to the direction of 
the channel during ordinary winds and weather; but in ex¬ 
ceptional cases it will be found setting diagonally across the 
channel. 

When the Chico light-ship bears about S. by W., distant 
2J miles, change the course to W. by N. J N. Having run 
about 35 miles, the guard-ship of Buenos Ayres should be 


* 


126 


SOUTH CHANNEL. 


sighted bearing about W. and distant 5 miles. This course 
leads 2 miles southward of the shoal in mid channel, and, 
should the weather be thick, it would be prudent to favor 
the south side of the channel, so as to be certain of avoiding 
it. As Buenos Ayres is approached, the southern coast will 
be sighted, and the various landmarks will serve as guides 
during the remainder of the route. From the position 5 
miles E. of the guard-ship, vessels drawing 16 feet may 
cross the bar by steering for her. The distance from Mon¬ 
tevideo to Buenos Ayres roads, by this route, is about 130 
miles. 

Beating through The foregoing directions appear to be sufficient for steam- 

ne]. ers and sailing-vessels, with a fair wind, daring fine weather, 

when the lights and other marks can be seen j but for those 
obliged to beat ui3 or down the South channel, and such as 
may feel that it is necessary for them to keep under way 
in thick weather, the following general remarks may be of 
some service: First, secure a good pilot, and watch him 
well j make every arrangement for frequent and continuous 
soundings; examine the quality of the bottom at every 
cast when the position is doubtful; use the ground-log 
every half hour; observe by it the set of the current, and 
compare the courses and distances made by the common 
log, with those shown by the ground-log j prefer the delay 
caused by anchoring to the risk of losing the vessel; carry 
enough sail to secure prompt handling, and avoid having to 
take in the light sails at a time when the crew should be 
otherwise employed. Ordinarily it is a waste of time and 
labor for a sailing-vessel to attempt to beat against a wind 
to which she cannot carry top-gallant sails, for the cur¬ 
rent produced by such a wind is usually more than any 
vessel can work against. 

The limit of the boards while the Oerro remains in sight 
are: for the eastern the summit bearing N., and for the west¬ 
ern, ENE. When lost sight of, it is prudent not to stand 
to the eastward beyond the depth of 30 feet or to the west¬ 
ward below that of 20 feet j and as point Piedras is neared 
shorten the boards to the northward, but prolong them to 
the southward of the direct course. As long as the light¬ 
ship remains in sight the limits of the boards are indicated 
by its bearing. Having lost sight of it, if the weather is 
clear, it would be better to stand to the southward and 


TO COLONIA AND THE RIVERS. 


127 


sight the church aud village of Magdalena, so as to get a 
new departure before coining up with the Chico bank. 
With the church in sight, the soundings must be the guide, 
for the depth decreases gradually near the edges of the 
Ortiz and coast banks, and the lead will indicate a change 
ot bottom as they are neared. Having brought the church 
to bear SW. J W., the southern board must be shortened ; 
and it would be prudent not to stand to the southward 
below a depth of 24 feet. A good mark for going in stays 
when standing to the northward in clear weather is when 
the church is lost sight of from the rigging below the tops. 
With the Chico light ship in sight, the limits of the boards 
are indicated by her bearing. When she is lost sight of, the 
lead must be depended on; and the boards may be pro¬ 
longed to the edges of the banks, except in the vicinity of 
the shoal in mid-channel, where it would be prudent to beat 
along the edge of the Ortiz bank until the cathedral of 
Colonia is sighted and a new departure made. When 
standing in for the roads of Buenos Ayres, look out for the 
wrecks which are very numerous in this locality. 

In addition to the depth of water, the quality of the bot¬ 
tom will be found a good guide for the edges of the chan¬ 
nel, for it invariably changes from soft mud to mud aud 
sand, and subsequently to sand. 

Vessels bound to Colonia follow the same route through 
the South channel until they are abreast of Santiago bank. 
From thence they should follow the edge of the Ortiz bank 
until Colonia cathedral or light is sighted. 

The edge of the Palmas flat shelves very gradually. The 
course to be made good from the roads of Buenos Ayres to 
the fair-way buoy will depend on the state of the tide and 
draught of the vessel. Ordinarily a vessel drawing 12 feet 
may steer NE. f N. direct from the guard-ship to the buoy, but 
those of greater draught must make a more circuitous route. 

A good pilot is absolutely necessary for vessels drawing 
over 8 feet; and it would be a saving of time, often of dis¬ 
aster, if all foreign traders took pilots. They are, however, 
not to be relied on absolutely, for they frequently lose their 
wits at the most critical moments. They also habitually 
stand across the channel in order to find the edge. Tliis 
should be positively forbidden; as the current is usually 
strong, and a heavy or long vessel will shoot across and 


To Colonia. 


To the rivers. 


Pilots. 


128 


MARTIN aARCIA CHANNEL. 


ground before the course can be changed. The master 
should, therefore, personally superintend the movements of 
his vessel, and be ever ready to resume control and anchor. 

^ , , The cerros of San Juan, the cathedral at Oolonia, and the 

other landmarks, will enable you to plot the position 1‘re- 
quently and ascertain the set of the current. When ap¬ 
proaching the fair-way buoy be careful to avoid the bank 
close to the southward of it, over which there is only 10 
feet depth. Should it be necessary for a vessel-of-war of 
heavy draught to ascend above Martin Garcia, it would be 
advisable to send boats ahead to mark the channels. With 
steam cutters this would cause but little delay. 

Martin Garcia Vcssels bouud to the rivei’s direct should steer so as to 

lannei. within 2 iiiiles of Farallon islet. From thence steer N. 

by W. ^ W. until Oolonia cathedral is in line with the west¬ 
ern Hornos island (one-third of its length from the western 
end,) bearing SF. J E.; then proceed on this line of bearing, 
which will lead to the fair-way buoy. Passing it on the port 
hand, continue on the same * course, NW. J W., until the 
northern end of the summit of a remarkable white sand hill 
comes in line with the northern summit of the cerros of San 
Juan, bearing NE. by E. J E. Then steer for Chico point 
until the mast and white beacon on Martin Garcia island are 
in line, bearing NW. | W. Keeping these objects in line will 
lead to the northward of the middle bank and southward of 
the flats making out from the island. It is diflicult to dis¬ 
tinguish the Hornos island or Oolonia from the fair-way 
buoy 5 and the lead and beacons become the only guides. 
If no beacons are seen, anchor. 

The channel between the middle bank and the tail of the 
flat extending from Martin Garcia should, if necessary, be 
buoyed, as it is only about three-quarters of a cable in 
breadth, and has frequently only 16 feet depth. When 
there is a depth of 16 feet in the middle bank channel, there 
will be only 13 feet over the flats, which commence about 
15 miles below Martin Garcia; and when the rocks situated 
on the western side of Martin Garcia are awash, vessels 
bound down may be certain of 13 feet all through the pas¬ 
sage. Having passed through the middle bank channel, 
steer so as to pass about 2 cables from the southern end of 
Martin Garcia. The edges of the banks are generally 
marked by a ripple. 





































































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INFIERNO CHANNEL. 


12 \) 


Having passed Martin Garcia, steer about NVV. by W. f 
W., for the beacons marking the shoal extending northwest¬ 
ward from the island. Follow the shoal around by the 
lead, and haul up the main channel, with the high bluffs of 
Punta Gorda just open of Juncal island, until yon are 
abreast of Los dos Hermanos islands and bank. The high¬ 
land of Punta Gorda should then be brought over Juncal 
island until the Boca Guazu is well open, or the village 
of Las Vacas on the Banda Oriental shore bears SE. by E, 

J E. The rise and fall of the waters in this locality is much 
the same as it is in the Plata. A vessel at anchor lies 
head up stream. The highest tide abreast of the Hornos 
islands is said to occur about an hour after the setting of the 
moon. 

The Infierno channel requires a pilot, and no directions luQemo ehan- 
for it could be made intelligible. To cross from a berth in 
mid-channel of the Infierno into that above Martin Garcia, 
bring the Carretas rock southward of Martin Chico point, 
and the southern summit of the cerros San Juan in line 
bearing E. ^ S., and then steer NW. by W. for about IJ 
miles until Martin Chico point comes in line with the south¬ 
ern summit of the cerros San Juan, be^iriug E. by S.; then 
steer W. by N., keeping them bn the opposite bearing until 
the high wooded bluff of Punta Gorda is just open of Jun¬ 
cal island. Steer up the channel with this mark on until 
you are abreast of Los dos Hermanos. Punta Gorda 
should then be brought over Juncal island until the Boca 
Guazu is open. 

The Carretas rock lies 3J miles E. of Martin Garcia island Canetas rock, 
and about 1 mile southward of Martin Chico point. It is 8 
feet out of water at ordinary high tides, stands close to the 
northern edge of the channel, and makes a good beacon. 

The height of the tide depends upon the force and di- Tides, 
rection of the wind. With fresh easterly and southeast 
winds there will be a rise of 5 or 6 feet above ordinary 
high-water level, and with strong winds from the opposite 
quarter there is a corresponding fall. 

The Boca Guazil, the entrance to the Parana, lies about Mouths of tiu^ 
12 miles northward of Martin Garcia j and the entrance toparlnl"*^' 
the Uruguay is about 9 miles farther north. The former is 
about 2J cables in width, but very deep and clear of shoals j 
the latter is miles in width, and also very deep. 

9 R P 


130 


AFFLUENTS OF THE PLATA. 


Remarks. 


The BocaGuazu continues about the same width as far as 
the main stem of the river; but the Uruguay widens out 
immediately above the entrance, and has an average breadth 
of miles as far as Fray Bentos. The western shore, be¬ 
tween Martin Garcia and the riv^ers, is formed by low and 
wooded islands, fronted by an extensive shallow flat; the 
eastern shore is higher, and inhabited. The village of Las 
Vacas is on this shore in front of the Boca Guazu, and that 
of Higueritas is on the high land forming the eastern point 
of the entrance to the Uruguay. 

AFFLUENTS OF THE PLATA. 

The changes which are constantly occurring in the beds 
and banks of the rivers flowing into the Plata render it 
impossible to give any accurate description of them. But 
the following remarks on river navigation may be acceptable 
to those having no experience of their own. 

Pilots are absolutely necessary; and however hard it 
may appear to pay them high wages, yet it is always better 
to secure good ones. The economy of time, fuel, and material 
will be an equivalent for the outlay. 

All vessels should be provided with a number of hawsers 
of various sizes, which should be stowed conveniently for 
paying into boats on short notice. Keep the heavy pur¬ 
chases ready for use, the leading-blocks secured to bolts 
that will bear heavy strains, the capstans free from rust 
and other incumbrances, the kedges slung conveniently for 
lowering into the boats, the heavy anchors fitted for car¬ 
rying out, and the boats that are to do the work in a 
condition to float them without the delay of trial when the 
critical moment arrives. The best spar on board should be 
fitted for use as a shore. This is often the only means of 
keeping the bow or stern from swinging; and in all cases 
it will be found of great assistance in heaving the vessel 
afloat. 

AYhen ascending the river the draught of water forward 
and aft should be equal; and if the vessel will steer as well 
and make about the same headway, it would be better to 
trim a few inches by the head. When descending, and the 
state of the river will permit, the vessel should be trimmed 
at least one foot by the stern. The first of these will pre¬ 
vent the vessel from grounding on steep banks, the latter 



GENERAL REMARKS. 


131 


will render her less liable to swing broadside to the current 
when aground. The foregoing precautions are a few only 
of those which should suggest themselves to every seaman. 
It must be remembered that promptness in carrying out 
anchors and heaving a strain on the hawsers may save 
lying aground for months. As a rule, very little injury is 
received from occasional grounding; but when the vessel 
lies in 2 or 3 feet less water than she is drawing for several 
weeks, she is very apt to be strained, even where the bottom 
is soft and yielding. 

The channel is indicated by the direction of the strongest 
current, the bubbling up of the waters, and the course taken 
by the drift and debris. The surface of the water over the 
shoals is nearly always still and smooth. If in doubt where 
to find the channel, close with the steepest bank and try the 
depth there. When ascending the river, should you observ’e 
that the vessel is out of the current and is passing the land 
faster than usual, you may be sure you are out of the chan¬ 
nel. During a high river, the current often sets with great 
force over the banks, toward the shore and points, and 
into the openings through the banks. When descending 
the river, a boat may be sent ahead to sound and signal 
the depth and direction of the channel, but this is impracti¬ 
cable when ascending, on account of the current. 

Vessels of heavy draught should not run after dark. The 
river steamers are piloted by men whose constant practice 
has rendered them experts in handling and finding the chan¬ 
nels; .such men as these are rarely available for foreign 
traders. The only locality where it would be safe to run 
during the night is between the mouth of the Parana and 
Rosario, and even here it would be much better to anchor 
at sunset when descending the river. 

During fine weather the wind generally blows parallel to 
the direction of the river, whether it be from the northward 
or southward. Sailing-vessels find no difficulty in beating 
down, if they avoid the eddies, which prevent prompt 
handling. 

Before letting go the anchor be sure that the vessel is 
head to the current. The utmost caution is necessarj^, to 
avoid snapping the cables ; and no anchor should be let go 
without a buoy-rope long enough to make fast on deck and 
strong enough to weigh the anchor. It is preferable to 


Anchoring. 


132 


O-ENERAL REMARKS. 


Grounding. 


anchor where the river is wide, for the current is not so 
strong and the deptli of water not so great as in narrow 
reaches. In addition to this, the mosquitoes will be less 
troublesome. 

Small vessels must avoid anchoring in any of the reaches 
trending iS". and S., for a violent pampero blowing against 
the current would be apt to capsize them. Should a vessel 
be anchored in an exposed part of the river, every prepara¬ 
tion for tripping the anchor and running for a sheltered 
reach should be made on the slightest indication of a pam¬ 
pero. When a vessel is made hist to the shore, the bow¬ 
lines should be led through the breast-chocks, so as to keep 
her head up to the current. It would be well, also, to have 
a light stern-line out to prevent swinging across the current, 
should a fresh wind come up suddenly. Avoid anchoring 
near an eddy. 

The bed of the river being composed of mud and sand, 
grounding is of little injury to the keel and hull; but heav¬ 
ing afloat is tiresome work, involving the use of heavily-laden 
boats in strong currents. Intelligent pilots are of great 
assistance in laying out anchors, and from constant experi¬ 
ence they will be found exiierts in the management of boats 
in a current. It is always better to treat their peculiarities 
with patient consideration, and so secure their hearty co¬ 
operation, than to get annoyed with them, and treat their 
suggestions with indifference or contempt. 

The universal rule is to bring the ends of the vessel parallel 
with the direction of the current, and then heave ahead or 
astern, as the case may be. As soon as the current begins to set 
along both sides of the hull, it cuts the sand out from under 
the bottom, and greatly assists in getting afloat. Ground¬ 
ing on the lower side of a bank is the least trouble, for in 
this case it is generally sufficient to lower the boats, drop 
the bower anchors under foot, and reverse the engines, in 
order to float off. But should the river be falling, and the 
engines do not start her after a few revolutions with a good 
head of steam, carry out a good anchor, and lose no time 
in trifling with light hedges. Whenever it is possible to 
make the hawser fast to a tree on the bank, this should be 
preferred to laying out an anchor. It is useless to attempt 
to pull a heavily-laden boat up against the current; there¬ 
fore, while the heavy anchors are being slung, and other 

































































































































































































































GENERAL REMARKS. 


133 


arrangements are in progress, send a liglit boat out with a 
hedge and long line, by which the heavier boats may be 
hauled out. It is a loss of time to commence heaving until 
all preparations have been made j and should a heavy strain 
be brought on one anchor with no success, before parting 
the hawser or cable, carry out another; in short, do not 
permit the temptation of “ another heave ” to cause the delay 
consequent to parting the cables or hawsers, dragging home 
the anchor, or disabling the capstan. 

Decending the river is attended with more risk than as¬ 
cending, on account of the increased speed caused by the 
current. Whenever a vessel touches the bottom, the first 
thing to be done is to keep her from swinging broadside to 
the current; for, as soon as she does, the sand will accumu¬ 
late on the lower side, and the banks thus formed increase 
the diffieulties of getting afloat. Finding it impossible to 
heave afloat, no time should be lost in lightening the vessel. 

The cargo, stores, &c., should be landed on the nearest bank 
which is steep to, so that you may reload without the use 
of boats. But do not commence to lighten until ever^^ prep¬ 
aration has been made for heaving afloat; otherwise the 
current will drive the vessel up on the bank as fast as she 
is lightened. The first movement is always the hardest to 
accomplish, for as soon as the current starts to run under 
the bottom, the loose sands wash away, and the water 
deepens with great rapidity. 

Coal may be bought at Rosario, Parana, Oorrientes, and Fnoi and aup 
Asuncion. Above Asuncion wood is used for fuel, and may 
be obtained at various points on the rivers. Extensive coal¬ 
fields are said to exist in Paraguay. These cannot long re¬ 
main useless with the rapid increase of river commerce and 
demand for cheap fuel. Fresh beef, mutton, and other fresh 
provisions may be obtaind wherever there is a farm-house. 

Rosario and Parana are the only places above Buenos 
Ayres where ships’ stores can be procured. When time is 
not the main object, the general rule for economizing fuel is 
to steam through the water at a rate not less than double 
that of the current, when ascending the river, and to keep 
good steerage-way when descending. The sails should be 
used whenever possible, especially when there are no bars 
or shallow reaches. 


134 


RIO PARANAHYBA AND RIO GRANDE. 


Rio Par ana- 
liyba. 


Rio Grande. 


Parma river. 


PARANA RIVER. 

The Parana river is formed by the junction of the Kio 
Paranahyba and the Eio Grande, in latitude 20° S. The 
Paranahyba rises in the Brazilian province of Goyaz* and 
flows to the southward, Avith many windings, along the west¬ 
ern slopes of the serra das Yertentas, from which it receives 
many streams, the largest being the Oorrente. After turn¬ 
ing abruptly to the westward, it is joined by the Virissimo 
and Corumba from the northward and the Velhas from the 
southeast. Thence to its junction with the Eio Grande its 
course is southwesterly and it forms the boundary between 
the province of Goyaz and Minas Geraes, from which it re¬ 
ceives numerous tributary streams. 

The Eio Grande rises in the Mantiqueira mountains, near 
the registry of Picao, about 100 miles from Eio de Janeiro. 
After receiving sundry tributary streams, it flows to the 
northward for about 125 miles; then turning to the north¬ 
east, it receives the river Mortes, and is already navigable by 
boats for many miles. Turning subsequently to the west¬ 
ward, it is increased by the Sapucahy, San Pedro, and Pardo, 
and eventually serves as a boundary between the provinces 
of Minas Geraes and Sao Paulo, until it unites with the 
Paranahyba to form the Parana. 

The Parana now serves as a boundary between the Brazilian 
provincesof Goyaz and Sao Paulo, and takes a southwesterly 
course; it is subsequently the boundary between the latter 
province and that of Matto Grosso, and between this and 
Parana. From its origin it receives a great many tribu¬ 
taries from both sides. It soon plunges over steep rocks, 
giving rise to the waterfall of Urubii-Punga, the noise of 
which is heard a distance of 6 or 8 miles. Below this water¬ 
fall it receives from the right the Oururuhy ; about 10 miles 
below this the Tiete from the left, and 6 miles farther the 
Sucurihy from the right. A short distance below the mouth 
of the latter is the ra^iid of Jupia. Thence in a course of 300 
miles it receives the Yerde, Pardo, Ivinheima, (with three 
mouths,) Ivahi, Amambahi, and Igatemi from the right; 
the Aguapehi. S. Anastacio, Paranapanema, and Piquiri 
from the left. 


The Brazilians write this Guayaz. 



SETE QUEDAS. 


135 


The Igaterai and Piqniri disembogue on opposite sides of SeteQuedas. 
an island about 60 miles in length. Just below this island 
the bed of the river becomes contracted, by the Maracape 
mountain range, to a width of 150 feet. This chasm is 
divided into seven parts by precipitous rocks, between 
which the mighty river rushes with^ great violence and 
forms one of the grandest sights in the world, named Sete 
Quedas, or Seven Falls. 

In the first 60 miles below the falls the Parana receives 
the Acarahi from the right, and above and below it the 
Jaguare and Iguacii from the left. It flows to S. for 
about 180 miles below the falls, receiving numerous tribu¬ 
taries of no importance; it then turns to SW. for 70 or 80 
miles, and then to W. for 150 miles, where it is joined by 
the Paraguay. From the Sete Quedas to the Iguacu it 
forms the boundary between the Brazilian province of 
Parana and the republic of Paraguay ; thence to the mouth 
of the Paraguay it separates the latter country from the 
Argentine state of Entre Eios. 

From the junction of the Kio Paranahyba with the Kio 
Grande to the moutfi of the Paraguay the Parana encircles 
an immense number of islands. Some of these are many 
miles in length, others are grouped into extensive archipel¬ 
agoes. Above the Sete Quedas the river-bed has a width 
of 6 miles, in which space there are an immense number of 
islands. 

From the headwaters of the Bio Grande to the mouth of Length, 
the Paraguay is a distance of about 1,500 miles by river; 
from the mouth of the Paraguay to Martin Garcia is 609 
miles; making a total length of about 2,100 miles. In 
breadth, current, and volume, the Parana has ten times the 
magnitude of the Paraguay, which is itself superior to the 
largest rivws of Europe. But, owing to its rapid descent, 
and the mountainous character of the country through 
which it flows, the Parana is not navigable more than 250 
miles above the mouth of the Paraguay. 

The rapids of Apipe were formerly considered the head Head of navi- 
of navigation ; but Commander Page, formerly of the Uni¬ 
ted States Navy, ascended above them with a vessel draw¬ 
ing 5 feet, after the river had fallen 8 or 9 feet below the av¬ 
erage highest stage. These rapids are, however, a great 
obstruction to navigation; for it requires a si)eed of at least 


BANKS OF THE RIVER. 


i;36 


8 knots an hour to make any headway against the current 5 
and in the descent it is necessary to head the current, 
steaming sufficiently fast to give good steerage-way, and 
thus drift down between the rocks. The falls of Iguacii, 
in latitude 25^ 50' S., are in reality the head of navigation ; 
thence to the Sete Quedas the bed of the river is a succes¬ 
sion of rapids. 

In general the eastern tributaries of the Paraguay and 
Parana are rapid, and offer no facilities for navigation. 
Those from the Andes, on the other hand, wind slowly 
through an immense extent of plain, and are available as 
the means of internal communication. The aspect of the 
river banks changes entirely below the falls of Apipe from 
steep and picturesque to low, flat, and marshy, 
r.eiowthe Par- In the lower part of its course, below the mouth of the 
Paraguay, the Parana is everywhere deep, broad, and 
unobstructed, except at extremely low water, when there 
are a few bars, over which there is a depth of 8 to 10 feet. 
The right bank, being the edge of the extensive plains of 
the Chaco, is low, flat, and marshy j it is nearly always 
inundated by a high river, and, when the waters have sub¬ 
sided, it is cut up into innumerable islands, covered with 
thick brushwood, which renders them inaccessible. The 
left bank is composed chiefly of low cliffs, 30 to GO feet in 
height, which are the termination of the undulating plains 
of the Argentine province of Entre Kios. 

The first elevation met with on the right bank in descend¬ 
ing through the Argentine republic is San Lorenzo, near 
Eosario; and the last on the left bank is the Punta Gorda, 
or Diameiite, above the town of Parana, where commence 
the delta and the many arms through which the river emp¬ 
ties into the Plata. 

The breadth of the river is very variable; in the upper 
part of its course, where it runs between high banks, the 
breadth averages about 500 yards; but below the Paraguay 
it spreads out, and during a low river is from one to three 
miles; sometimes in a great rise the breadth is many miles, 
the banks being inundated far beyond the limit of vision 
from the main channel. Great changes then occur; new 
islands are formed, and others washed away; the channels 
are constantly changing, and even the best pilots must stop 
to sound in order to find them. The bed of the upper river 








































































































































































AFFLUENTS OF TUE PARANA. 


137 


is composed of rock j below Corrientes it is composed of 
shifting ^aiids and clay. To attempt a description of the 
labj'^rinth of channels and islands, or even to enumerate 
them, would result in confusion. 

Among the many rivers which flow into the Parana below Affluents, 
the Paraguay, three only are worthy of special mention as 
being of interest to the mariner. These are tlie Salado, Ter- saiado river, 
cero, and Gualaguay. The Salado rises in the western Cor¬ 
dilleras of the province of Salta, and, after a very winding 
course to SE., empties into the Parana at Santa Fe, in lati¬ 
tude 31° 45' S. This river was ascended in 1855, by Com¬ 
mander Page, in a small steamer drawing 22 inches, to 
ISIonte Aguara, a distance of 340 miles by river, and 96 
miles in a right line from Santa Fe. Subsequently its navi¬ 
gability for a distance of 900 miles has been established. 

It flows through a country unequaled for pastoral and agri¬ 
cultural purposes, and brings into communication with the 
Atlantic some of the richest and most populous provinces 
of the Argentine republic. 

The Tercero empties into the Parana 6 miles above San Tercero river. 
Lorenzo, under the name of Cacarana, which it retains only 
in the province of Santa Fe. From its source in the sierras 
of Cordoba it is known as the Tercero, and it is joined by 
the Quarto at the distance of 120 miles from its confluence 
with the Parana. The various authorities are contradictory 
as to the navigability of this river, but judging from its aver¬ 
age fall of 2J feet to the mile, it is probably not navigable 
for any great distance from its mouth. 

The Gualaguay river takes its rise in the interior of the oauiaguay 
province of Entre Rios, and empties into the Parbon, an arm 
of the Parana. The Gualaguay aftbrds navigation for ves¬ 
sels of six feet draught up to the port of the town of Gual¬ 
aguay, about 35 miles from its mouth; and the Parbon is 
of sufficient depth for any vessel that can enter the Parana, 
and skirts throughout its extent the firm lands of Entre 
Rios. 

In addition to the above, there are a great many arms of 
the Parana which afford the means of extensive internal 
water communication for considerable distances from the 
main stem of the river. 

A delta of vast extent is formed by the various branches Delta of the 
of the Parana. Its apex, at the town of Diamente, in Entre 


138 


DELTA OF THE PAEANA. 


Aiiuual rise. 


Eios, is distant from its base in a right line 178 miles, while 
its base, the line on which these branches empty into the 
Plata and Urugnay, is about 40 miles in extent. Diamente 
is assumed as the apex, because at this point, in ascending, 
the width of the river is contracted to 1 mile by the approach 
of firm, elevated lands. To give a description of the innu¬ 
merable small branches up to this apex would tend to con¬ 
fusion. They, nevertheless, serve a useful purj)ose by giv¬ 
ing access to a labyrinth of islands, the fruits and other 
products of which lead to an extensive trade with Buenos 
Ayres. 

The main channel, the Guazii, at its confluence with the 
Uruguay may be said to bisect the delta, there being north 
of it the Brasso Largo and Brasso Bravo, and south of it 
the pass of Las Palmas and Arroyo Oapitan. The latter, 
although narrow and shallow, is important as offering a 
water communication to the main or firm lands of the state 
of Buenos Ayres, which it skirts for some distance north¬ 
ward, enters the pass of Las Palmas, and thence becomes 
the most southern branch for many miles. A narrow stream 
sets off from it under the name of Baradero, and, washing 
the firm lands, joins the main river about 100 miles above 
Martin Garcia. From this point to the apex of the delta 
the main stem becomes its southern and western boundary. 
The most northern branches, forming at different distances 
the northern side, which is bounded in that direction by the 
province of Entre Eios, are, beginning from the Uruguay, 
the Brasso Largo and Brasso Bravo j the main river for the 
distance of 25 miles is the Parbon and the Parana Oito. 
This last, although tortuous, narrow, and shallow, possesses 
advantages similar to those of the Arroyo Oapitan and Ba¬ 
radero, and branches off from the main river a few miles 
below Diamente, near the apex of the delta. 

The depth of water throughout the delta, a distance of 
245 miles by the main stem, is not less than 16 feet. The 
width of the river is from one-half to 2J miles, exclusive of 
its branches, which at some points extend 12 miles from 
firm land to firm land. The character of the bottom is 
sandy, except where the current is too weak to retain its 
detritus in a floating state. The average velocity of the 
current is 2J miles an hour. 

Two causes produce a rise of the Parana, enabling vessels 





ANNUAL RISE—DEPTH. 


139 


of 15 feet draught to ascend to Corrieiites, and those draw¬ 
ing 8 or 9 feet to ascend the Paraguay as far as Guy aba, 2,400 
miles from the sea. The western affluents are svyollen by 
the melting of the snows on the Cordilleras; the eastern by 
heavy rains which fall at certain seasons in the region where 
these rivers rise. There results from this great irregularity 
in the period of rise and height of the river, which is un¬ 
known in rivers where only one cause exists. The Parana 
is lowest in September and October; sometimes the lowest 
stage is reached in July or August. The river commences 
to rise about the end of October; continues rising during 
November, December, and January; attains its highest 
stage in February or March, and begins to fall in April or 
May. Besides this annual rise there are occasional freshets, 
caused by the heavy rains in Brazil. One of these takes 
place in October, when there is usually a rise of six feet, 
called by the natives, “ repunte.” The lower part of the delta 
is often swollen by a backing up of the waters of the Plata 
during a continuous SE. wind. The difference of level 
rarely exceeds 17 feet; the average annual difference is 
about 14 feet from its junction with the. Paraguay to the 
delta. 

Considering only the mean annual rise, a vessel drawing Depth of the 
14 feet may ascend to Corrientes with safety during a high^^'^^’ 
river. Vessels drawing 17.feet have frequently ascended to 
Bosario, which is the head of navigation for sailing-ships. 

A draught of 10 feet may usually be carried as far as Parana 
at all seasons, but during the low river not more than 7 
feet can be carried to Corrientes. 

The chief obstructions apx)ear to be the flats southward Bara, 
of Martin Garcia, where there is usually a depth of 13 feet 
in the channel at low water; the bars of Cruz Colorado and 
Eama Negra, where there is only 10 feet depth at extreme 
low water; just above the city of Parma 9J feet, and near 
Goya 8J feet. It must not be understood that the depth of 
water increases by the full amount of the annual rise, for the 
bed of the river, especially where it is shallow, undergoes 
a change of level, being elevated by a rising and cut out by 
a falling river. Thus it is that the depth of the channels 
varies with the river at the same height; and there is gen¬ 
erally more water over the bars in the end than there was 


140 


PARAGUAY RIVER. 


at the commencement of the low river, although there has 
been no actual rise of the waters. 

Current. The average fall of the Parana below* its junction with 

the Paraguay is three-tenths of a foot to the mile. But the 
great volume of water which it contains causes an average 
current of knots an hour, 2 knots during a low and 3 to 4 
knots during a high river. The rate of the current is gen¬ 
erally in proportion to the depth of water, for where the 
river is narrowed it cuts out a deep channel and the current 
runs with great force. 

rh^iYank ^ the The ouly towns on the banks of the Parana of any commer¬ 
cial importance are Eosario, Santa Fe, Parana, and (Jorri- 
entes. There are, however, many others having considerable 
local trade, which is being rapidly developed by the extra¬ 
ordinary growth of population in the Argentine republic, 
Eosario being the most important to the foreign trade, a 
special mention has been made of its trade, &c. Parana 
may become a great commercial center j in 1870 the value 
of its exports was ^1,107,000, the value of its imports (di¬ 
rect) $21,820. 

Remarks. The hottest montlis at Parana are December and Janu¬ 
ary, when the thermometer ranges from 54P to 95° F.; the 
coolest are June and July, when it rises after sharp frost in 
the early morning from 30^ to 50^ F. A great variety of 
game may be shot on the banks of the Parana. 

PARAGUAY RIVER. 

Source. The Paraguay, the principal affluent of the Parana, issues 

from the Sete Lagoas, (seven lakes,) situated in an extensive 
elevated plain in the Pari mountains, a part of the sierra 
Diamante, forming the table-lands of the Brazilian province 
of Matto Grosso. The Sete Lagoas are situated in about 
13° 30^ S. and 5G^ 15' W., a distance of 200 miles south¬ 
east of the city of Matto Grosso and 150 miles north of the 
town of Guyaba. The table-lands of Matto Grosso, having 
a mean elevation of 100 feet above the sea, separate the 
basin of the Parana from that of the Amazon, and give rise 
to many of the tributaries of both these great rivers. 

Headwaters of The nearest approach of the headwaters of the Parasruav 

the Paraguay i ^ i j 

aud Amazon. to those ot the Amazoii IS in the sierra Aguapahy, in 
which, on the northern side, the Alegre, a tributary of the 


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HEADWATERS. 


141 


Guapor6, and on the southern side the Aguapahj^, a tribu¬ 
tary of the Jauru, take their rise within a few yards of each 
other. The former is a tributary of the Amazon, the latter 
of the Paraguay j they flow to the eastward parallel to each 
other a distance of 20 miles, when they fall into a plain in 
latitude 14o 53' S., forming between them an isthmus about 
3J miles in width. Here, taking opposite directions, the 
Allegre flows into the Guapore about 3 miles from Matto 
Grosso ; and the Aguapahy, running to the eastward, enters 
the Jaurii after a further course of about 90 miles. In 1771 
a boat was transported overland from the Allegre, a distance 
of 5J miles, and then launched into the Aguapahy. It was 
taken down the latter into the Jaurii, and then into the 
Paraguay, without 'encountering any serious difficulties. 

The sierra Aguapahy, under the general name of Parecis, 
extends a considerable distance to the northeastward be 
yond Diamentino, a town established in 1821 in the mineral 
region, and forms the dividing ridge between the head¬ 
waters of the Paraguay and Guapore; in other words, be¬ 
tween the basin of the Plata and that of the Amazon. These 
mountains are very rich in copper and gold ; the mines were 
formerly extensively worked, but owing to the supposed 
difficulties of communication with any sea-port, and want 
of labor, they were abandoned many years back. 

In 184G, by way of the Tapajoz and Arinos, large canoes 
laden with merchandise from Para and destined for Cuyaba 
were transported across the dividing ridge, the ascent of 
which is gradual and the passage not difficult, and again 
launched into the Ouyaba in latitude 14o 49' S. Although 
the distance of laud transportation here is much greater 
than that across the isthmus between the Allegre and 
Guapor6, yet it is more practicable, and is sometimes made. 

From the foregoing facts it would appear to be an easy 
matter to construct a canal between these waters, and thus 
complete a continuous inland passage from the mouth of 
the Plata to that of the Amazon. There are doubtless some 
obstructions to navigation in these winding rivers j but 
these are not of such a character as to present difficulties 
which could not be readily overcome. The wonderful re¬ 
sults to be anticipated from such a work would seem to make 
the subject worthy of the serious consideration of the na¬ 
tions whose interests are most at stake. 


142 TRIBUTARIES. 

Tributaries. The first tributary of the Paraguay of any importance is 
the Preto, from the westward j the next, the Diamentino 
from the eastward. Below the latter the Vermelho, Sipo- 
tuba, Oabe 9 al, and Jauru, which rise in the Sierra Aguapahy, 
enter the Paraguay from the westward, while from the op¬ 
posite direction it is increased by numerous streams flowing 
from the Parecis mountains, and farther down by the three 
lakes, Obiraba, Gahiba, and Mandiore. The Sipotuba and 
CabeQal are rich in gold, the Jauru in copper. It is a fact 
worthy of mention that all the tributaries above Villa Maria, 
which have their source east of the Paraguay, are impreg¬ 
nated with salt or saltpeter, while those from the opposite 
direction are sweet waters. 

Head of navi- Up to the Sipotuba the Paraguay maintains a width of 
gation. from two to three hundred yards, and a depth of not less than 

eight feet; thence, above, it becomes contracted to between 
seventy and a hundred yards, with a depth gradually dimin¬ 
ishing to three feet up to a point named Moro do Anjico, 
about thirty-five miles above Villa Maria, in latitude 49' 
S., the highest point reached by the United States explor¬ 
ing steamers, and estimated at not less than 2,200 geographi¬ 
cal miles from the ocean. There is no reason to doubt that 
in the months of December, January, February, and March, 
a steamer of three feet draught could easily ascend at least 
150 miles farther. 

Sipotuba river. The Sipotuba or Lipotuba was ascended to latitude 15° 
42' S., longitude 57° 56' W., about 52 miles from its conflu¬ 
ence with the Paraguay, by the United States exploring 
steamers. It was found to be, in width, depth, current, &c., 
the superior of the main river. The Jauru is also navi¬ 
gable for a very considerable distance. 

The exploring steamers were detained in latitude 17° S. 
while ascending by an accumulation of floating grass, which 
at the season of high water is uprooted, and floats with the 
current. At this particular jioint, when the river is at its 
highest stage, the waters spread over a vast extent of ter¬ 
ritory into lakes Obiraba and Gahiba. The depth of water 
at this point is very great, and the obstruction mentioned 
is held only by the banks, there being no perceptible cur¬ 
rent. One of the steamers ascended above this obstruction 
by circumventing it by way of the lakes. 


CUYABA BIVER. 


143 


These lakes were explored, and found to be beautiful 
sheets of water, navigable for vessels of 6 feet draught. 
The channel connecting the Obiraba or Ubiraba with the 
Paraguay is about 50 feet in width, 10 in depth, and 6 miles 
in length. The extent of the lake is doubtless very great 
at obtain seasons of the year; but at low stages of the 
river it has a circumference of about 10 to 15 miles. A 
narrow channel leads from Obiraba to Gahiba or Gaiba 
lake, which is to the southward; this channel is about 14 
miles in length and 12 feet in depth at low stages of the 
river. The general depth of Gahiba is about 12 feet; its 
length, north and south, about 8 miles, aud its breadth 3 
miles. No connecting channels could be found between 
Gahiba and Mandiore lakes. The passage connecting the 
former with the Paraguay is deep and of very small extent. 

The Cuyaba is the next important tributary met with in 
descending. The United States exploring steamers ascended 
this river also. The lower part of its course they named 
San Louren 9 o, from a tributary of the Cuyaba; but this is 
doubtless an error, the latter being the most important and 
largest of the two rivers. The Cuyaba, or Cuiba, rises near 
the headwaters of the Paraguay, in latitude 13^ S., and 
after receiving many tributary streams, the principal of 
which is the San Lourengo, it flows into the Paraguay, in 
latitude 18° S. This river for 40 miles above its mouth 
varies in width from 200 to 300 yards, and in depth from 2 
to 4 fathoms, current from 2 to 2J knots an hour. Thence 
to the confluence of the San Louren 50 , a distance of 55 miles 
farther, there is but little change, except in the current, 
which is more rapid. Above the San Lourengo the Cuyaba 
varies from 50 to 100 yards in width, with a depth of from 
8 to 15 feet and a current of 1 mile per hour. The banks 
are low, being often inundated, and the depth given above 
is that fouud after the waters have fallen about 6 feet below 
the highest stages. The steamers ascended to Cuyaba, a 
distance of 250 geographical miles from the mouth of the 
San Lourengo, about 340 miles from its confluence with the 
Paraguay, and not less than 2,200 miles from Montevideo. 
In ascending, the banks of the river become higher, the 
country more populous, and agriculture more advanced. 
The width of the river averages about 200 yards, its depth 
at low water is not less than 4 feet up to SanAutonio, 25 miles 


Lakes Obiraba 
and Galiiba. 


Cuyaba river. 


144 


CUYABA—DOURADOS. 


below Cuyaba, where the river-bed becomes rocky and con¬ 
tracted, with not less than 3 feet in the channels. 

Cuyaba town. The towii of Ouyaba, with a population of 10,000, is a 
thriving place, and promises to become a great commercial 
center. It is the capital of the Brazilian province of Matto 
Grosso. At the present time there is an established line of 
Brazilian steamers plying between Ouyaba and Alontevideo, 
and stopping at all the important points on the rivers. The 
time consumed in ascending is about six weeks. 

San Lonren 9 o. The Sail Lourcngo was explored up to its confluence with 
the Itiquira, or Piquira, and found to be navigable for ves¬ 
sels of 5 feet draught. The couutr^^ through which it flows 
is an extensive pampa, intersected by numerous streams, 
aflbrding a great extent of navigation for vessels of 2J feet 
draught. 

Dourados. Dourados, the naval depot for the entire nortliwesten 
territory of Brazil, is destined to become a place of great 
importance. It is situated on the right bank, IG miles below 
the mouth of the Ouyaba; it contains extensive work-shops 
and is to be made a first class naval station for constructing 
and repairing river-craft of every description. 

Dourados to From Dourados to Oorumba, a distance of 105 miles, the 
Paraguay is not less than one-quarter of a mile in width nor 
less than 5 fathoms in depth, with a current of about 2 knots 
an hour, at times when the river has fallen 3 to 5 feet below 
its highest stage. The general course of the river is to the 
southward. The country on either side is one vast plain, 
with occasional interruptions of isolated, low, wooded hills, 
sometimes forming the margin of the river, and affording 
an abundance of fuel. 

Maudiore lake. Alandiore lake lies westw^ard of the sierra Dourados, on 
the eastern slope of which is the naval depot before men¬ 
tioned. The entrance to the lake is south of the hills and a 
few miles below the post. The lake has a circumference of 
about thirty miles, and is navigable for vessels of 4 feet 
draught. 

Remarks. The width of the Paraguay abreast of Oorumba is about- 
600 yards, and the depth at low water about 15 feet. In the 
channel up to this point the least w^ater found by the United 
States steamer Water Witch was 10 feet, and the river had 
presented no difficulties to its free navigation by this vessel, 

corumba. an ocean steamer of 400 tons and 9 feet draught. Oorumba 


















































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OTUQUIS RIVER. 


145 


is the first settlement and military post met with in Brazil¬ 
ian territory below Donrados. It is a port of entry for the 
province of Matto Grosso, and since the opening of these 
rivers to Brazilian vessels it has increased rapidly. 

In ascending the Upper Paraguay there are many routes 
through thev arious arms by which the rapid current maj^ 
be avoided and the distance considerably shortened. A 
light-draught steamer may pass through the Bahia Negra 
into the Paraguaymi, which is about 15 miles below Corumba, 
and thus shorten the distance 35 miles. During high stages 
of the river, this “ field navigation,” as it is called, is much 
resorted to by pilots of the river-craft who are familiar with it- 

The Tacoary and Motetey or Miranda rivers, rising in the 
southern part of Matto Grosso, are the next important trib¬ 
utaries met with in descending below Oorumba. The for¬ 
mer is a considerable stream, navigable for many miles. 

The next important affluent of the Paraguay is the Otu- 
quis, wliich flows from the rich Bolivian iirovince of Ohiqui- 
tos, and empties into the Bahia Negra, which in turn flows 
into the Paraguay in latitude 19° 52' S. The navigability 
of the Otuquis has been established from the high lands of 
Bolivia for a long distance in its course to the SB., but it 
has not asr yet been traced through the Bahia Negra. Com¬ 
mander Page made many persistent efforts to find a navi¬ 
gable channel from the Paraguay to the Otuquis, but failed 
from the want of a suitable vessel. He explored the Bahia 
Negra in the Water-Witch for a distance of 31 miles; sub¬ 
sequently in the Argentina and Alpha for 24 miles farther; 
and afterward in the Alpha alone, but without finding the 
channel. He describes the Bahia Negra as having an ex¬ 
tent of 80 miles N. and S. and not less than this in a direc¬ 
tion E. and W.; it is a boundless plain of grass and lagoons, 
with a depth of water varying from 3 to 6 feet. The im¬ 
portance of tracing the Otuquis through this lagoon or shal¬ 
low lake can hardly be estimated ; for once established it 
will giv^e access to one of the richest countries in South 
America, now lying in an undeveloped condition from the 
want of easy communication with the sea. 

An abundance of water-fowl may be shot in the Bahia 
Negra; and wherever the lands are not inundated there is 
a great variety of other game. Great quantities of fish can 
be caught with hooks and lines. One specie, the Dorado, 
10 R P 


Remarks. 


Tacoary river. 


Otuquis river. 


Fish and game 


146 


TEIBUTARIES OF THE PARAGUAY. 


is of golden color, from one to three feet in length, and 15 
to 25 pounds in weight, the flesh being white, solid, and de¬ 
licious eating. The strength of this fish is very great, and 
it will be found necessary to use strong lines and short but 
stout hooks in order to get it in board. 

Latiriquiqui. The Latiilqiiiqui flows into the Bahia Kegra near to its 
outlet into the Paraguay, and is said to discharge a volume 
of water which could come only from a large river. The 
Blanco andApa next tributary is the Blanco, from the eastward, and the next 
is the Apa, from the same direction. The former of these 
is claimed by Paraguaj^ as its boundary with Brazil; but 
the Brazilians claiming the latter as the rightful boundary, 
so established it, when the recent treaty was signed between 
those nations. 

The streams flowing from the mountains of Paraguay, 
while increasing the volume of the river, do not add much 
to the water-communication leading from it, as they are in¬ 
variably rapid and swollen during the rainy season, and 
little better than rills during the dry season. A few of them 
are, however, navigable by boats for short distances. Among 
these may be mentioned the Apa, having not less than 9 feet 
for a distance of 6 miles, and an average width of 300 yards 
Jejui river. for the Same distance. The Jejui, perhaps the most import¬ 
ant of all, courses through the Yerbales, and offers an easy 
communication for the conveyance of this product to San 
Pedro. Lieutenant (now Commodore) Daniel Ammen, U. 
S. N., ascended this stream at the season of low water. His 
remarks in reference to it are: ^‘We had a succession of 
sand-bars up to this port, (San Pedro, in latitude 24^ 05' S., 
longitude 570 13' W.,)on an average one to every four hundred 
yards. A steamer navigating the river, even to San Pedro, 
should not have a length greater than eighty feet, should 
be flat floored, and be capable of making eight statute miles 
an hour, the average current being equal to three and a half.” 

From the Bashia Xegra to the Confuso, a distance of 650 
miles by river, there are comi)arativel 3 ^ few tributaries from 
the west, while those from the east, although small, are 
CoDfuso river, constantly recurring. The Confuso, a narrow and tortuous 
stream, rises in the eastern Cordilleras of Bolivia, and after 
flowing through the saliferous districts of the Chaco, empties 
into the Paraguay, in latitude 24° S. It has not been ex¬ 
plored more than 24 miles from its mouth, but is doubtless 



PILCOMAIO AND VERMEJO RIVERS. 


147 


navigable for a very considerable distance. Its waters are 
bitter and brackish. 

Betvveen the Oonfuso and its confluence with the Parana, 
the Paraguay receives the waters of two considerable rivers, 
the Pilcomaio and Vermejo, the former in latitude 25^ Id' 
S., the latter in 26*^ 52' S. Of the Pilcomaio little informa¬ 
tion can be given. Several attempts have been made to ex¬ 
plore it, but all were unsuccessful. Azara ascended through 
the northern branch about 40 miles, and found not less than 
six feet ilepth, but a very rapid current. An attempt was 
made to descend the river in 1844, but the want of suitable 
means prevented success. 

The Pilcomaio rises in a spur of the Cordillera of the 
Andes, northwest of Potosi, in Bolivia, and after receiving 
the Cachimayo, which rises within a short distance of Chu- 
quisaca, it is joined by the Pilaya, from the southwest. The 
latter, fed by numerous tributaries, greatly augments the 
volume of the Pilcomaio, which, at a short distance from this 
iunction enters the Gran Chaco, and flowing in a southwest 
direction, empties into the Paraguay opposite to Asuncion. 

The Vermejo, or Bermajo, rises in the southern part of 
Bolivia, near to Tiraja, and after receiving a great many 
tributaries it flows in a general southeasterly direction, and 
enters the Paraguay about 50 miles above its junction with 
the Parana. The Vermajo is navigable the entire year a 
distance of 800 or 900 miles. It has recently been ascended 
a distance of 720 miles to Esquina Grande by a steamer 
belonging to a company formed expressly for developing its 
commerce. But a short distance separates the headwaters 
of the Vermejo from those of the Pilaya, which flows into 
the Pilcomaio, so that, even if the latter be not navigable, 
as it is feared, near its junction with the Paraguay, there 
can be little doubt that the Vermejo will answer all the 
purposes of a riverine highway from Bolivia to the basin of 
the Plata and thence to the Atlantic. The total length of this 
river is about 1,400 miles. It has been descended by an 
American, Mr. Hickman, in a boat drawing 3J to 4 feet, 
from Oran to the mouth, a distance of 1,200 miles; and in 
this distance there was no serious obstruction to naviga¬ 
tion, although the river is narrow and winding. 

The depth of the Vermejo varies from to 30 feet dur¬ 
ing its lowest stages; the annual rise is about 12 feet. 


Pilcomaio. 


Vermejo river 


148 


NAViaATION OF THE PARAGUAY. 


Remarks. 


The banks are skirted by an abundance of fine timber, suit¬ 
able for building purposes and fuel. The breadth varies 
between 50 and 300 yards. The waters abound in fine fishj 
the banks with game of every description j the adjacent 
lagoons with many varieties of water-fowl. The neighbor¬ 
ing country is inhabited by wandering tribes of Indians, 
whose treachery is proverbial. The swiftest current in the 
Vermejo does not exceed 5 miles an hour. 

The Paraguay flows to'the southward between the meri¬ 
dians of 560 and 59° W., a distance of nearly 2,000 miles fol¬ 
lowing the bed of the river, and 840 in a direct line. Ves¬ 
sels drawing 12 to 13 feet may ascend to Asuncion, and 
Tacoary river, those drawing 6 fcct to Cuyaba, during the annual rise. A 
draught of 9 feet may be taken to Asuncion during the 
greater part of the year, and the least water ever known 
on the shoalest bars below this point is 5 feet. The height 
otuquis river, of the rivcr above the level of the sea at Asuncion is 253 
feet, and at its sources in Matto Grosso 1,020 feet. 

The width of the river yaries from 200 to 600 yards up 
to Asuncion. Above this point the river-bed becomes grad¬ 
ually more contracted. It is more even and less encum¬ 
bered than the Parana. Below 23° S. it is composed of 
sand and clay, but above rock becomes very frequent. It 
has comparatively few islands, a tortuous course, and a more 
open channel than the Parana. The average rate of current 
varies from 1 knot during a low and falling to 2J knots dur¬ 
ing a high and rising river. 

The banks of the Paraguay up to Asuncion rarely exceed 
25 feet in height. To within a short distance of this town 
their geological formation is unvarying—a substratum of 
yellowish sand about 10 feet in thickness, a middle stratum 
of earthy clay, and a surface of virgin soil of about 3 feet. 
The timber is everywhere abundant, and of excellent qual¬ 
ity for fuel. 

The Paraguayan shore is lined with military outposts 
from 3 to 5 miles apart, each containing 3 to 5 men. The 
opposite bank is uninhabited, except in a few places, owing to 
the wandering Indians who frequent the neighboring country. 

Fish and game. The navigation of the Paraguay is easy, and can be ac¬ 
complished without the assistance of a pilot, because there 
are few shoals in the middle of the river, and as they are 
rocky and covered with sand, they do not shift. In asceud- 

































































































ANNUAL RISE. 


149 


ing^ or desceiuUngf, keep at a little distance from either bank, 
and ou arriving near a point, steer for and along the oi^po- 
site bank. If any doubt exists about the direction of the 
channel, sound with the boats. 

The city of Asuncion, the capital of the republic of Par- 
is the only town open to foreign commerce. The 
prostration of the trade of the country during and since the 
war ending in 1870 has been very great; but with more 
liberal notions, and the increasing river-traffic, it is probable 
that Asuncion may become an important city. The au¬ 
thorities consulted vary from 1,700 to 48,000 as to the 
number of its inhabitants. In 1850 there were about 12,000, 
according to Page. Fronting the city there is a stone quay 
for facilitating the loading and discharging of vessels. The 
best anchorage at Asuncion is close to the shore, in 3 
fathoms, with the flag-statf over the office of the captain of 
the port bearing SE., distant about 2J cables. The police 
and custom-house regulations are harsh and exacting to 
strangers, steamers ply regularly between Asuncion and 
Buenos Ayres, and between the former and Cuyaba. 

The annual rise of the Paraguay commences in February 
and continues until June; the river then falls gradually. 
Its rise is, however, very irregular. The rise and fall at 
Asuncion were observed by Lieutenant (now Commodore) 
Aminen between October 1, 1853, and March 31,1854. The 
following table, taken from his journal, will give a clear idea 
of the general fluctuations of the water-level: 

Statement of the rise and fall of the Paraguay at Asuncion, 


Ft. In. 

October 1 to 24, supposed fall by marks. 2 .. 

October 24 to 31, by staff, river fell. .. 8 

October 31 to November 29, river fell. . 2 6 

November 29 to December 27, river fell. 4 .. 

December 27 to January 5, river fell. 2 5 

January 5 to January 12, river fell. 8 


Total fall from October 1 to January 12. 12 3 

January 12 to 21, river rose..11 

January 21 to February 5, river fell. 1 H 


Total fall from October 1 to February 5. 13 3 


From February 28 to March 31, river rose. 5 9 


Asuncion. 


Annual rise. 















150 


URUGUAY RIVER. 


Source 


Salto. 


Tributaries. 

Navigation. 

Entrance. 


'VTlieii the Paraguay is very low the Parana is usually 
very high ; the waters of the latter then force back those of 
the Paraguay and cause a rise for many miles. The mean 
difference between the highest and lowest stages is 10 feet, 
the greatest 14 feet. The latter overflows the banks and 
occasious great loss to the inhabitauts of the neighboring 
country. 

URUGUAY RIVER. 

The Uruguay has its source on the western slope of the 
sierra do Mar, in the Brazilian province of Santa Oatharina. 
During the first 75 miles of its course it flows to the north¬ 
west through the plains of Vaccaria, where it unites with 
the Pellotes, and is increased by numerous tributaries of lit¬ 
tle importance. It is subsequently joined by the Pepiri- 
Guassu and turns to the southward, forming the boundary 
between the Brazilian province of Bio Grande do Sul and 
the Argentine state of Eutre Bios, from both of which it 
receives numerous tributary streams. From its junction 
with the Ibicui, which flows from the sierra Geral, it be¬ 
comes the boundary between the republics of Argentina and 
Uruguay. 

About 30 miles below the mouth of the Ibicui, and 250 
miles above the confluence of the Uruguay and Parana, is 
the Salto or falls of the Uruguay, Avhich is the head of nav¬ 
igation, except when the river is very much swollen. The 
upper river is, however, navigable above the Salto as far as 
the Pellotes, and still farther by boats. The Salto is fre¬ 
quently ascended, although at low stages of the river a bed 
of projecting rocks extends clear across. During its ascent 
by Commander Page not less than 20 feet depth was found 
on the shoalest part, and the current was so swift that all 
the power of a ten-knot steamer was required to overcome it. 

Below the Salto the Uruguay receives many more tribu¬ 
taries, and is gradually increased. Its chief tributary is the 
Bio Kegro, which rises in the northeastern borders of the 
republic of Uruguay, and flowing across this country emp¬ 
ties into the Uruguay about 15 miles from its mouth. 

The navigation of the Uruguay is not as difficult as it is 
in the Parana. Steamers of 5 or G feet draught may ascend 
to the Salto at any season of the year. The entrance is 20 
miles above Martin Garcia. It is formed on the west by the 


I 



FRAY BENTOS. 


151 


mangrove swamps of the delta of the Parana, and on the 
east by some elevated land, terminated by two headlands: 

Pnnta Gorda, a wooded bluff 85 feet in height, and Puuta 
Ohaparo, 5 miles to the northward. Above the latter the 
river widens out to an average breadth of 5 miles, which is 
maintained as far as Fray Bentos. 

The aspect of the P'ruguay is altogether different from Aspect, 
that of the Parana. In the lower part of its course as far 
as Fray Bentos, a distance of 90 to 100 miles, it has the ap¬ 
pearance of a lake from G to 9 miles in width. It is here 
shallow, but a deep channel extends the entire length of this 
lake, enabling all vessels that can cross the hats of Martin 
Garcia to ascend to Paisandu, 150 miles from its mouth. 

Above Fray Bentos the river narrows rapidly to from 500 
to 1,100 yards. 

The right bank, Entre Rios, is generally low, wooded, and Bants, 
monotonous, with occasional elevmtions of 100 to 180 feet; 
but the left bank, that of Uruguay, is formed by pretty, 
undulating hills, reaching occasionally an elevation of 200 
to 500 feet, intersected by numerous streams, with settle¬ 
ments along their banks. The principal towns of Entre 
Rios are on the Uruguay, but, the banks being frequently 
overflowed, they are built from 5 to 10 miles inland. The 
most frequented port is that of Fray Bentos, which is the Fray Bentos, 
lauding for the town of Gualeguaychu, situated on the 
stream of this name. In this part of the river the channel 
is nearest to the eastern bank. It is necessary to cross to 
the other side, a distance of 0 miles, in order to enter the 
Gualeguaychu, which has a bar in the entrance, but may 
be ascended by small craft a distance of 5 or 6 miles. The 
dilflculty of loading and discharging is great, owing to the 
shallowness of this part of the river. The produce is hides, 
tallow, bones, and jerked beef. 

The next port is Conception del Uruguay, situated a little Conception, 
below Paisandu, a place where a large number of foreign 
vessels trade to. The little river Conception admits vessels of 
light draught. Here is embarked all the produce of the 
neighboring estanaia one of the largest in the state. A 
line of steamers plying between Buenos Ayres and Salto 
touch at all the important points along the river. 

The length of the Urugua 3 ^ is about 900 miles. The most Remarks, 
difficult passes in the lower river are either buoyed or 


152 


KIVER DISTANCES. 


Rise of the riv¬ 
er. 


\ 

Caution. 


River distances. 


marked by stakes. Pilots may be obtained at Buenos 
Ayres, Montevideo, or Conception ; the usual charge is 81 
per day. Supplies may be obtained at all the towns on the 
river. Coal is scarce ; but wood, which answers well for 
steaming purposes, may be obtained. 

The Uruguay is subject to periodical rises, occasioned by 
the abundance of rain falling in the provinces of Brazil, 
where its tributaries rise. The annual flood usuall^^ occurs 
in September or October, sometimes with great rapidity, 
and where the river is narrow causing a current of 2 to 5 
knots an hour. The average rise is 20 feet. In October, 
]801, the water rose 30 feet at Salto, and at this point the 
difference ot level between January and June, 1805, was 40 
feet. The strength of the current depends upon the height 
of the ri\w. During the flood it runs from 2J to 4 knots an 
hour, at other times about IJ knots, and is much influenced - 
by the wind. The wind generally follows the course of the 
river, and facilitates its navigation by sailing-vessels. 
Besides the annual rise, there are occasional floods at all 
times of the year. 

When loading in the Uruguay, you should be careful to 
consider the state of the river, so as to avoid detention. In 
1870 the English gun-boat Cracker, drawing 8^ feet, was 
detained at Oorcordia three mouths (June, July, and Au¬ 
gust) waiting for the river to rise. In some of the shallow 
passes there was only 6 feet depth of water. 

The great discrepancy existing between the river dis¬ 
tances given by various authorities, and the many contra¬ 
dictions on this subject contained in the work of Com¬ 
mander Page, cause some hesitancy in publishing the fol¬ 
lowing table, which has been compiled from the charts of 
this office constructed from the surveys of United States 
officers: 


TaNe of river-distances by the main channel, except where otherwise stated. 


River. 

Places. 

Miles. 

La Plata. 

Buenos Ayres to Colonia, (direct). 

Buenos Ayres to Martin Garcia, (direct). 

26i 


Colonia to Martin Garcia, (direct). 

—’5 

2Gi 

12i 

21 


^Martin Garcia to Parana Guaz.u. 


Martin Garcia to Uigueritas, (mouth of the Uruguay). 

Parana. 

Martin Garcia to San Pedro. 

100 



















































































































KIYER DISTANCES. 


I 


153 


Tal)le of river-distances ht/ the main channel, tfc.—Continued. 


River. 

Places. 

Miles. 

Parana. 

San Pedro to Rosario. 

*78 


Rosario to Diamente... 

t60 


Diamente to Parana.. 

Parana to first bar, Avith ten feet, three and one-half miles 

J30 


above Juan Gomez point. 

70 


Parana to La Paz. 

GO 


La Paz to second bar, vith ten feet. 

5 


La Paz to third bar, with eleven feet. 

15 


La Paz to Tala pass, with ten feet. 

62 


La Paz to Patril pass, with nine feet. 

85 


La Paz to bar between Puerto Tunis and Guaveya point. 

143 


La Paz to Goya arm. 

11119 


La Paz to Bella Vista. 

170 


Bella Vista to Cornontes. 

71 


Corrientes to mouth of Paraguay. 

16 


Total, from Martin Garcia to mouth of Paiaguay. 

n 609 


* Page gives 92, Moucbez 68, miles. |1 Page gives 145. 

t Page gives 67. ^ Moucbez makes this 611 miles; Page 760 

J Page gives 36. statute miles. 

§ Page gives 102. 

From Martiu Garcia to tlie Salto Apip6, on the Parana, 
is a distance of about 750 miles, and thence to the falls ot 
Isuacu about 300 miles more. 

o 


Table of river-distances on the Paraguay and Uruguay ; by Mouchez. 


River. 

Places. 

Miles. 

Paraguay ■ - - - 

Martin Garcia to the mouth of the Paraguay. 

609 


;Mouth of the Paraguay to llumaita . 

23 


Mouth of the Paraginaj* to Nembuco or mouth of Vermejo... 

48 


Mouth of the Paraguay to Asuncion. 

212 


Month of the Paraguay to Concepcion. 

361 


TIouth of the Paraguay to .\pa river. 

483 


:Mouth of the Paraguay to Pan de Azucar. 

539 


Mouth of the Paraguay to Comibra. 

6^2 


Mouth of the Paraguay to Albuquerque. 

724 


Mouth of the Paraguay to Cuimba river. 

886 


Mouth of the Paraguay to Cuyaha town. 

ilouth of the Paraguay to Moro do Anjico, thirty-five miles 

*1, 220 



11, 500 

Uruguay. 

From Martin Garcia to Fray Bentos. 

71 

From M.artin Garcia to Conception del Uruguay. 

122 


From Martin Garcia to Paisandu. 

134 



186 


* Page gives this distauce as 2,400 miles from Montevideo. t Page. 




























































154 


LA.TITUDES AND LONGITUDES. 


TctbJe of the positions of the most important points on the Plata and its afflu¬ 
ents ; by E. Mouehez, French navy. 

[The loni^itiules are reckoued from the meridian of the custom-house at Montevideo.] 


Name of place. 

Latitude. 

Longitude. 


o / It 

0 ! n 

Buenos Ayres, (Merced church). 

34 36 28 S. 

2 10 01 W. 

Colonia, (the point). 

34 28 20 S. 

1 39 28 W. 

I’arana port, river Parana. 

31 42 17 S. 

4 20 32 W. 

Santa Fe port, river Parana. 

31 39 25 S. 

4 30 36 W. 

Cori ieutes ijort, river Parana. 

27 28 01 S. 

2 38 43 W. 

Ceri ito, mouth of the Paraguay. 

27 17 30 S. 

2 25 14 W. 

Humaita, (casemate battery,) Paraguay river. 

27 04 10 S. 

2 17 21 W. 

Nemhuco i)ort, Paraguay river. 

26 51 08 S. 

2 07 57 W. 

Oliva port, Paraguay river. 

26 00 47 S. 

1 40 14 \V. 

Villa Franca port, Paraguay river. 

26 18 50 S. 

1 59 32 W. 

Villeta port, Paraguay river. 

25 30 50 S. 

1 22 56 W. 

Asuncion port, Paraguay river. 

25 16 49 S. 

1 27 42 W. 

Paisandu port, Uruguay river. 

East Point light house, (the Plata). 

34 58 15 S. 

1 23 48 \V. 

1 15 39 E. 


The latitude of the custoin-liouse at Montevideo is 34^ 54' 
15" S. The longitude has not yet been accurately deter¬ 
mined. That adopted by Mouehez is 50^ 09' 30" W. of the 
meridian of CrreeiiNvich ; that adopted by this office is 56^ 
11' 41" W. A line of telegraph-wire having been completed 
from Europe to the priucipal South American ports, the ex¬ 
act longitudes of these ports will, doubtless, soon be deter¬ 
mined. 



























Al.PHABETICAL INDEX OF NAMES. 


A. 3'age. 

Acaralii river. . 135 

Afilarpoiut. 23,24 

- leef. 24 

Agnapahy river. 141 

-sierra.140,141,142 

Aguapelii river. 134 

Agudo (le Navarro, cerro. 15 

AlbiKiiieninetown. 153 

Alegre river .140,141 

Amaiiibalii river. 134 

Amazon.2,140,141 

Anastacio river. 134 

Angostura point. 51 

Animas point. 21 

- sierra.1,14,1C, 17,23 

Apa river.14C, 153 

Apip6 rapids.135,130 

Aguidahan town. 87 

Arapey river. 37 

Arcbimedes bank.2,103,120 

Argentine Republic, 3, 40, 42, 44,72-88, 94, 

96, 97,137,140,150 

Arinos river. 141 

Arrecife anchorage.9,10 

-point. 17 

Arroyo Cai)itan.93,138 

Avtillera point.50,123 

Asperezas de Maldonado. 10 

Astrolabe bank.2,103,104 

Atala 3 'a point .02, 04, 05 

- river. 04 

Asuncion town, 43, 79, 133, 147, 148,149 

153,154 

Austria. 78 

B. 

Bahia. 43 

Bahia Negra.145,140 

Bella Vista. 153 

Ballena point.10,17,22,23 

Ballena sierra. 10 

Banda Oriental.30, 39, 40 

Baradero. 138 


Barracas town. 
Barragan bay.... 

Basuras bay_ 

Bavmnne. 

Beanmanoir rock 

Belgium. 

Bolgrano village 
Bermajo river .. 

Betet cerro. 

Bisson reef .... 
Blanca lagoon.. 

Blanco river_ 

Boca bank. 

) ) .1 lie. Alini ... 

-Onazu. 

M )livia.. 

in bay wreck . 

’ordeaux. 

1 basso Bravo ... 


Page. 

.71,79 

.05,07 

. 25 

. 92 

. 54 

_75,70,90,91 

.. 93 

. 147 

. 17 

.. 7,8 

. 13 

.. 140 

.70,71 

. L 3 

. -.. ' 30:131 

80, 87, 94, 96,147 

.. 102 

. 92 

. 138 


-Largo. 138 

Brava point.25, 29,103,109, 111, 120 

Brazil, 15, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 70,78, 81, 82, 

83,86,88,90,90,140 

Buceo point. 24,27 

-village. 25 

Buenos Ayres custom-house light .. 68 

-city, 4, 39, 41,43, 44,56, 6 71,72, 

73, 78, 79, 80, 81, 85, 88, 89,90,91, 
92, 94,90,105,133,149,151,152,154 

-guard-ship.08, 09,124,125 

-province.73, 81-87 

-roads, 3, 22,08,09,70,71,72,70, 

93,109,110, 112,114,117,118,121, 
124,120, 127 


Ibien Viaje shoal . 28 

biena Vista cerro.5,7, 8,12 

t-MU]) slioal. 20 

Burros point. 23 


C. 

Cabecal river. 

Cabo shoal. 

Cacarana river. 


142 

59 

137 













































































15G 


INDEX. 


Pa;2Ce. 

Cacliiniayo river. 147 

Caleta Cbica cove. 29 

-point. 29 

Camaroii bank. 63 

Canal del lufierno channel . 57,58 

Carape cerro. 16 

Carbonero sierra. 15 

Cardal laf^oon.. . 13 

Carretas point .. 24, 27 

-reef.26, 27 

-rock. 9 

Castillo cape, 3, 4, 5, 6, 9,12,15,16, 21, 99, 

100,108,116,118,119 

- Chico island. 5,6 

-Grande island.5, 6,12 

Castro point. 45 

Catalina channel. 69 

Catainarca province.73, 85, 96 

Cathedral li^ht, (Montevideo). 29,30 

Cerrito town. 154 

Cerro Lar^o department. 37 

-light, 28, 29, 30,31,32,45,46,48,101, 

103,124,125 

-point. 23 

Cerro of Montevideo. 31 

Chaco. 2,136 

Chafalote cerro. 8,15 

Chascoiuos town. 78 

Chico cerro. 15, 17 

-bank.2, 64,106,121,125, 127 

-light-ship.64,124,125,127 

-point. 128 

Chili. 78, 80 

Chiqnitos province. 145 

Chivilcoi. 79 

Chnelo river. 51 

Chnqnisaca river. 147 

Chuy river. 21 

City banks.68,69,72 

Coast bank.106, 10; 

Coimbra town. 156 

Colare point. 67 

Colonia cathedral.55,107,127,128 

Colonia del Sacramento department :17 
Colonia light, 50, 51, 52,53, 54, 55,107,122 

123,124 

-point. 124 

-roads .1,51,53,54 

-town, 37, 49, 51, 52,122,123,127,152, 

154 


Pajre. 

Conception del Uruguay.151,152,153 

-town, (Paraguay). 153 

-river. 151 

Concordia. 87 

Confuso river... 143 

Copiapo province. 93 

Coidoba eity.73, 78, 96 

-province.73, 85, 98 

Corcordia town. 152 

Coronilla point. 5,6 

Corrales town. 87 

Corriente river. 134 

Corrientes province.73, 82, 86, 87 

-town, 83, 86,133,137, 139, 140, 153,154 

Corumba riv^er . 134 

-town.144,145 

Cruz Colorado bar.95,139 

Cufre river.49, 122, 123 

Cuiba river. 143 

Cuirassier bank.2, 3, 63,105,106 

Cumberland rock. 26 

Cururuhy river. 134 

Cuyaba river.141,143,153 

-town ....86,139,140, 141,144,149,153 


D. 

Dai man river. 

Dart shoal.. 

Diamente sierra.. 

-towm. 

Diameiitino river. 

-town. 

Difuntos cerro. 

Dolores town. 

Don Carlos farm. 

Dourados sierra. 

-station. 

Durazo department... 
-town.. 


. 37 

.. 45,48 

. 140 

136,137,138,153 

. 142 

. 141 

. 15 

. 78 

. 16 

. .144 

.144, 145 

. 37 

. 38 


E. 

East bank.18,19, 20 

-point .. 14,16,17,19, 20, 21, 22, 100, 104 

---light-house .. 154 

Embudo point. 63,64 

Encantada island. 7, 8 

English bank, 2, 3, 4,99,100.101,102,103, 

104,108 119,120 

-light-ship..101,102 

Er.glish port. 23 















































































































































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5 1 . 




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i 


•I 


* 


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sr'«i 



T r V *»fc'' ; ■■■>-*• 

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I * 

■' '. .' J «j 


■V - 


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If 


?f'i* 


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1- 

























































INDEX, 


157 


Ensenada town. 

Eutre Rios province, 

Espinillas isla . 

Espinillo point. 

Espinosa islet. 

Esqnina Grande. 

Etna rock.. 

Europe. 


Pape. 

. 79 

73, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, 
87,135,136,150,151 

. 62 

..45,46,48, 122 

.. 9,11 

. 147 

—--... 55 

.39, 42, 44 


F. 

Fain ilia rocks. 32 

Farallon islet and reef.53, 55, 56,128 

Fishers’ banks.53,55, 123 

Flores island.4,24.25,28,102, 111, 120 

-light ... .25, 26, 27,28,29, 101,102,103 

Florida department. 37 

Forest King reef. 27 

France, 38, 40, 42,73, 75,76, 83, 89, 90, 91, 92 

Fray Bentos town.130, 151,153 

French bank. 2,104 


G. 


Gabriel point 
Gahiba lake.. 
Garmon lagoon 

Genoa.. 

Geral sierra... 

Germany. 

Glascow. 

Gorriti island 
Goya arm .... 
-town .... 


.. 29 

.142, 143 

13 

. 91 

. 150 

42, 76, 78, 89, 90, 92 

. 91 

.17,18,19,20 

. 153 

. 139 


Goyaz province. 134 

Gran chaco.73, 87 

Granite point. 17 

Great Britain, 38, 40, 42,75, 76, 78, 81, 83, 89, 

90, 91,92, 94 

Gregorio bank. 121 

Griffon rock. 30 

Guadalupe department. 37 

Gualagnay river. 137 

Gualeguai town . 79 

Gualegnaychu towm and river. 151 

Gnapore river. 141 

Guaveya point. 1'13 


H. 


Hamburg. 91 

Havre. 91, 92 

Higuerita town.130,152 


Page. 

Holland. 76 

Hornos islands. ..53, 54,55,56, 111, 128,129 

Hnuiaita.153,154 

Hydra Rock. 30 


I. 


Ibicni river. 150 

Igatemi river.134,135 

Iguacn falls.136,153 

-river. 135 

Him, de Tierra. 5 

Iman point. 23 

Indio bank. 121 

-point.62, 63, 64,65,105,106 

-light-ship.63,124,125 

In homo clianuel.Ill, 129 

I ugles cerro. 17 

Inner road, Buenos Ayres.69,70,72 

Isla Falsa. 9 


- point. 68 

Islote. 7 

Italy.38,42,73,76,78, 89, 90, 91, 92 

Itiiinira river. 144 

Ivalii river. 134 


Ivinheima river. 134 


J. 

Jagnare river. 

Jauni river.. 

Jejui river. 

Jesus Maria point. 

- spit . 

Jos6 Ignacio point.... 
Jnau Gomez point .... 
Juan Jerdnimo down.. 

Jnjui. 

Jnjuy province. 

Juucal isla . 

-island. 

Jupia rapid. 


L. 


Laguna Blanca ... 

Laja bank. 

La Paz town. 

Lara bank. 

-point. 

La Rioja province 
Las Conchas river, 


. 135 

.141,142 

. 146 

48,49,121,123 

. 122 

. 12 

. 153 

. 61 

. 96 

. 73 

.. 61 

. 129 

. 134 


. 13 

...53,54,56 

. 153 

. 67 

1,66, 67,124 
...73.82,87 
. 93 





























































































158 


INDEX. 


Page. 

Las Conchas town. 78 

Las Palmas pass. 138 

Las Vucas.129,130 

Latiriqnicini river. 146 

Lima. 80 

Lipotnba river. 142 

Liverpool. 91,94 

Lobos island . 3, 4,14,15,21,25, 99,100,108, 

118,119,120 

- point.30,32,45 

-town. 79 

Loma do Narvaez mount. 16 

Lopez islets.54, 55,56 

- road. 55 


Los dos Hermanos islands and bank 129 

Los Tres Cerros. 16 

Luz islet. 27,28 


M. 


Mai^dalena church and village.63, 65,106, 

107,125, 7 

Maldonado baj^.3,17,22, 23, 111 

- dej)artinent.. 37 

- light. 102 


- morros ... .. 16 

- point.13.108 

- rivulet. 13 

- tower. 19,20 

- town. 21, 37 

Mandior6 lake-- 142,143,144 

Manuel point. 56 

Mantiqueira mountains. 134 

Mar sierra. 150 

Maracapo mountains. 135 

Marcos island. 5 

Mark rock.27,28 

Marseilles. 92 

Martin Cbioo point.56,129 

Martin Garcia channel.57,95,128 

-Hats.139, 151 

-island ..56,57,58,79, 83,111,128, 

129,130,135,152,153 
Matto Grosso province ..2, 86,134,144,145 

-table-lands. 140 

-town. 141 

Mauricio cliffs. 47, 48 

IMedano Alto hill. 5 > 

]\Iedano Chato hill. 59 

Medano point. 59 

Med use bank... 2,103 


Page. 

Meldroza islet. 25 

Memoria point. 62 

Mendoza proviuee.73,74, 80, 87, 96 

Mercedes. 96 


Merlo town. 79 

Middle channel.:. 124 

Minas department. 37 

Minas Geraes province. 134 

Miranda river. 145 

Monarch rock.19, 20, 22 

Monte Aguara. 137 


Motety river. 145 

Montevideo bay .22, 25,29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 
35, 39, 44,113,117,120,121,124 

-cathedral.. 46 

-eerro.45,122* 124,126 

-city. - .2, 3, 4, 22, 34-44, 80, 91,10.5,144, 

152,153,154 

-department. '. . 37, 47 

Moro do Anjico.142,153 


Mortes river 


134 


N. 

Narcisse bank. 

Narvaez eerro .. 

Negra point. 

Nembuco town.. 

New rock.. 

Now York. 

North channel. 

Norway.. 


. 103 

. 9,12 

16,23,24,12(1 

.153,1.54 

. 19,20 

. 43 

. 121 

. 42 


O. 


Obiraba lake.142,143 

Observation isla . 62 

Oliva town. 154 

Olivos bay. 92 

- point. 92, 93 

Oran town.96,147 


Ortiz bank.2, 49,104,105,106,107,116,117) 

124,125,127 


Otnquis river. 145 

Outer road.68, 69,70, 71,72 

Oyarvide reef. 7 


P. 


Paisandu department. 
-town.. 


.. 37 

.40,151,153,154 

57, 68,70, 93,127 
.. 69,70 


Palm os flat .. 
Palermo Chico 






































































































INDEX. 


159 


Page. 

Paloma islet. 9,10 

- port ..10,11, 111 

Pail Azucar ..14, 16,22,23, 24 

-, Paraguay river. 153 

Pando river and town. 24 

Panela liglit-sliip.46, 48,121,124 

-rock.45,46,121 

Para city. 141 

Paraguay republic.40,79, 80, 82, 86, 87, 91, 

93,96,113,135,146 

- river ... 2, 43,74,83,135-150,153,154 

Paraguay ini river. 145 

I’arbon river.137,138 

Parana Cito. 138 

-de las Palmas. 93 

-Guazu.Ij 93,152 

- province.134,135 

Parana river -.1,2,57,74,79, 83, 87, 93, 95, 
9(^ 111, PAJ, 134-148, 150,153 

-town, 64, 85,133,136,139,140,153,154 

Parauahyba river.134,135 

Paranapanerna river. 134 

Pardo river. 134 

Parecis mountains.141,142 

Pareda point. 66 

Pari mountains. 140 

Patagonia. 73 

I’atosi. 147 

Patril jiass. 153 

Pa von anchorage. 49 

-point.49,50,122,123 

-river.49,122, 123 

I’edegral iioint. 45 

Pedro Lopez point. 24 

Pepiri Guassu river. 150 

Perez point. 29 

Peru. 78,80 

Percyra river. 19 

Pescadores. 13 

Picao. 134 

Piedras bank. 62 

Piedras Biancas rocks. 30 

Piedras Negras Point. 


. 24 

Piedras point, (outside).1, 3,12, 13,16 

-, (inside) 61, 62,107,108, 111, 124, 

126 

-, (Montevideo bay). 39 

Pilaya river. 147 

Pilcomaio river.147 

Pillotes river. 150 


Page. 

Pipas reef, (eastward of Monte¬ 
video). 26 

- -, (westward of Monte¬ 
video).50,51,122,123 

Piquira river. 144 

Piquiri riv^er.134,135 

Plata bank.99,100,119 

Playa Honda Hat. 57 

Polonio cape.6,7, 8, 9,12,15, 21 

-reef.8, 9,12 

Porcillos Cove. 29 

Porto Kiiiz town. 9 

Portugal. 42,78 

I’otrero bay. 23 

Pozos .. 68 

Preto River..* 142 

Puerto Tunis. 153 

Punta Cliaparo. 151 

Punta del Este. 1,14 

Punta de Rocha. 9 

Punta del Rodeo. 9 

Punta Gorda.129,136,151 

Punta Rasa. 1 

Punta Rubia.9,11,12 

Q- 

Quarto river.69-137 

Qnilmes xioiut. 67 

R. 

Rama Negra bar.95,139 

Rasa island. 

-point, (north coast). 23 

-point and spit, (south coast).. 59,60 

Ratones island. 32,33 

Recoleta.68, 69,70, 89,92 

Relampago rock. 55 

Residencia. 69 

Retiro point. 92 

liiachuelo river.67, 70,71,90 

Rincon de Alcibas. 48 

Rincon del Cufre. 50 

Rio Grande.134,135 

Rio Grande do Sul. 39 

Rio de Janeiro.6, 41, 43, 44, 86,134,15U 

Rio Negro. 37,150 

Rocha lagoon.11,12,13 

Rodeo anchorage. Ill 

Rodeo isla . 61 

Rosario city .43,78, 87, 91, 93, 94, 95, 96, 97, 
131,133,136,139,140,153 














































































































IGO 


INDEX. 


Pape. 

Rosas mount . 01 

Kossario point.49,50,123 

-river.50,111,122 

Rouen bank. 104 


S. 


Salado river. 137 

-, (Buenos A 3 ’res). 01 

Salta province.73, 80,137 

Salto Apipe. 153 

Salto (lepartinent.— 37 

Salto falls, (Urugua^^). 150 

-town.38,151,152,153 

Salvador Grande cerro. 02 

San Antonio cape .1, 59, 6 C, 100,104,100,115 

---town. 143 

San Borombon bay.00, 02,100 

-river. 01 

San Carlos town. 21 

San Clemente anchorage. Ill 

San Francisco convent. 69 

San Gabriel islet.53,54, 55, 50 

San Gregorio point, cliffs, and river . 47, 48 

San Ignacio morro. 16 

San Isidro point. 92 

San Jose departuient. 37 

-fort. 30, 32 

--point.29, 33, 34,109 

-river and town. 47 


San Josd Ignacio lagoon. 13 

San Juan cerros.50,57,118,128,129 

-province.73, 85, 87 

-river aud tree. 56 

San Lorenzo town.130,137 

San Lourengo river.143,144 

San Luis. 73-96 

San Miguel fort. 15 

-river. 49 

San Pedro point. 51 

-town.140,152,153 

-tree. 56 

-river. 134 

San Rita point.51,53,54 

Santa Anna bank.57, 58 

Santa Barbara batter^". 29 

Santa Catheriua. 0,150 

Santa Fe province .. ..73, 82, 83, 85, &7,137 

-town.137,140,154 

Santa Lucia bay. 46, 47 

-bank. 46, 48 


Pape. 

Santa Lucia cliffs. 47, 48 

-flat. 121,122 

-river.1, 45, 46, 47, 111 

-town. 47 

Santa Maria cape .4, 9,10,11,12,13,15, 37, 

99,107,111,115,119 

-light. 10 

-point.47, 48,121 

Santa Rosa beach. 24 

Sandy point. 48, 49 

Santiago bank.66,127 

-point. 64, 66 

- woods. 65 

Santiago de Chili. 96 

Santiago del Estero. 73, 96 

Sara bank. 26 

Sarandi point.29, 30, 33, 3^ 

Sarin a reef. 32 

^ao Panlo province. 134 

Sapucahy river.•. 134 

Sauce point.50,12'^ 123 

Sebollati river. 37 

Seca island. 7,8 

Sete Lagoas. 140 

Sete Quedas.135,136 

Seven Missions. 40 

Silla Chica and Grande. 16 

Sipotuba river. 142 

Solis Chico river. 24 

Solis Grande river. 21,23 

Solis reef. 23 

Soriana department. 37 

South channel.124,125,126,127 

Spain.38,42,44,73,76,78,90 

Sucurihy river. 134 

Sweden. 42 


T. 

Tacoary river. 145 

Tacuarembo department. 37 

Tala pass. 153 

Tapajoz river. 141 

Tercero river. 137 

Tiete river. 134 

Tigre island. 46 

-point. 46,47 

-river. 93 

Tiraja town. 147 

Toros cerro. 17 

Torres islands. 7,8 








































































































































INDEX. ICl 


Pago_ 

Triton bank. 32 

Tucnman city.78, 9^ 

-province.73, 80, 96 

Tuna islet. . 9, 12 

Tnya bank.59,60 

U. 

Ubiraba lake. 143 

United States.. .38, 39, 42, 44,73, 75, 76, 78, 

79, 90,92, 97 

Urnba-Pnnga fall. 134 


Uruguay river .. 1,2, 43, 57,79, 83, 87, 111, 
129,130,150,151,152,154 

-Republic .. 15, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40,78,80- 

86,91,150, 151 

Uruguay ana town. 87 


V. Page. 

Vaccaria plains. 150 

Valparaiso. 96 

Velhas river. 134 

Verde river. 134 

Vermejo river.147,153 

Vermelbo river. 142 

Vertentes sierra. 134 

Villa Franca. 154 

Villa Maria.142,153 

Villeta town. 154 

Virissimo river. 134 

Y. 

Yaguaron river. 37 

Yatay town. 87 

Yeguas point.1 45, 46 




LIST or LIGHTS. 


Buenos Ayres Custom-house light 

-Guard-ship light. 

Chico light-ship. 

Colon ia light. 

East Point light, (Maldonado) .... 

English Bank light-ship. 

Flores Island light. 

Indio Point light-ship.. 

Maldonado light, (East point) .... 

Martin Garcia light. 

Montevideo Cathedral. 

-Corro. 

-Harbor. 

Panela light-shij). 

Santa Maria light. 

11 R P 


Page. 

68 

68 

64 

52 

14 

101 

25 

63 

14 

57 

30 

31 
30 
46 
10 



























































































































































































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